Pillar is perhaps our most remote crag here in Cumbria and is a very interesting cliff. It has many aspects varying from clean slabs to steep turfy cracklines and although it hosts some brilliant rock routes, you could argue it has more winter potential than summer.
We ended up climbing the first couple pitches of "Electron" HVS 5a. The first long corner which is the summer 5a pitch was excellent, as good as anything of that style i've climbed in scotland. The next couple pitches were scrappy. I then tried to climb a variation to pitch three as we didn't have a single piece of gear suitable to protect the 4c crack. It wasn't to be and after some tenous ballancing above a tied peg i traversed in to the top pitch of a VS called Electron which provided an excellent finish, similar to the Gargoyle Wall cracks on the Ben.
The meat of the route was this nice corner. |
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