"No Siesta" is perhaps one of the most seminal and hardest, long, mixed routes in the Alps and its difficulty has been confirmed by the likes of repeat ascensionists Marko Lukic and Robert Jasper to name a few. After having a very abbortive attempt on the line this time last year, due to nasty conditions very low on the route, Jon and myself were really motivated to get it done.
Although conditions on the Jorasses this year aren't exactly perfect, especially on the first third of the face, the plan was to get on it almost as soon as i arrived back in the valley. Unfortunately however, i came down with a nasty chest infection for a week, and had to spend 7 beautiful blue sky days sitting inside popping pills and hearing about what everyone else was doing.
Eventually, after letting the illness have its time we felt we could get stuck in, and amazingly the weather was still on our side. Once again we found ourselves bivvying half an hours walk from the schrund, gazing up at without-a-doubt the most beautiful and striking face in the Alps. I truly believe that if the Grande Jorasses north face was in Alaska or the Himalaya it would still be a standout feature, it has something unique and special about its broad shape, splitting spurs, dark recesses and crenelated summit ridge.
The night before we left Jon had received a text from our friend Korra Pesce letting us know that him and his partner Jeff Mercier had at the last minute also decided to go for No Siesta, so stood at the bottom i scoured the route for signs of them, and when it got dark enough i could make out two tiny pricks of light inching their way up the crux pitches. I always think there's something awesome about watching lights on a big face like that, it looks so strung out and involved, two tiny pricks of light amidst a huge vast blackness, it always seems scary to spectate, but when you're one of the pricks of light, it usually feels manageable and under control, a case of seeing the big picture being misleading.
After a while watching them, we were both slightly horrified by the fact that it was gone 10pm and they were still going, this being their second and crux day on the route. When their progress finally stopped, Jon received a text from Korra saying "slow progress, bring big balls and some extra cams.....". Although humerous, i have to say this was also slightly worrying, coming from Frances two strongest mixed climbers, M14 arms and definitive wads.
We got off to possibly the worst start, or none-start in the world the next morning. 4a.m. and bags on backs, Jon went to put his crampons on only to see that one of his toe bails was completely missing! after a hopeless search we accepted that it could be anywhere along the Leshaux glacier or Mer De Glace. Shocked and depressed i curled back up in my sleeping bag, and Jon headed off back down to town, where he would get hold of a new bail before walking back up and starting again the next day. Apart from being hard on psyche, it could have been a lot worse were it not for Jon's amazing girlfriend Sandra who met him on the Mer de Glace with a new crampon bail and some nice food.
Fast forward many hours, and we wake up once again and head up towards the schrund. I like to talk about routes in a more photo-orientated way, otherwise i feel myself getting lost in waffle, not able to prioritise events and feelings in to elequont text. So here we go:
|This is where we joined No Siesta again, around 150 metres over the schrund.|
|Horrible slabby traverse on black ice.|
|We moved together up all this section in a 150 metre pitch. Killer rope drag and a big bag for the second made things tiring.|
|Once deposited on to this small snowfield, we got our first gaze at some of the more meaty climbing. The next few pitches go up the cracked rock just left of the compact headwall on the far right. Steep!|
|Teaching myself to aid climb on one of the route's cruxes. This pitch is given A2, and i climbed it with a mixture of DIY aiding and some exciting free climbing.|
|The pitch off the bivi was hard to get in to to begin with, but after 10 metres i felt in the zone again.|
|The pitch was a full 70 metres, with the rope tugging tight on Jon just as i found somewhere to belay. We took 70 metre ropes on the route as we had heard that many pitches were huge.|
|Starting another monster 70 metre pitch. These pitches were all absolutely brilliant climbing.|
|Getting dry and steep. Jon leads a very loose small pitch on to the headwall.|
|Seconding with the big bag was pretty torturous, on both the steep and the less steep pitches.|
|A fun torqueing crack on the "Traverse Luminese".|
|Steep! Here Jon's standing on some big loose flakes directly above my head.|
|Solid rock at last!|
|A fun feety pitch, with the top of the Walker Spur on the left.|
|Jon on one of the cruxes.|
|A mixture of free and aid.|
|We brought a pair of jumars on the route, which i've never ever packed on an alpine route before. We only used them on two pitchs so i'm undecided on whether they were "weight well spent".|
A terrifying loose pitch followed, and soon after that it got dark and we found a place to bivi. Smaller than the night before but thankfully partly chopped out by Korra and Jeff, we melted snow in to the night.
|The next morning.|
|A fun technical pitch for breakfast.|
|This pitch summed up the route. It looked about 30 metres but turned out to be a full 70 and a little harder than expected.|
|But again, much longer than it looks!|
|The route goes out with a bang. A totally awesome steep goullotte. (well actually theres still quite abit more after this pitch...)|
|First sun in three days!|
I strongly believe that this was the first British ascent of "No Siesta". There has been another claim which would say otherwise, this claim however has an enormous amount of doubt surrounding it. I think that's as far as i'll take the topic.
Of course stay tuned for some great shots here also - http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions .