Saturday, October 9, 2010


Yesterday Jon Griffith and myself made an attempt on one of the harder wintery routes on the North face of the Jorasses. This route is a big step up from the routes i've climbed on the face so far. A friend had expressed his opinion that he thought there was not enough ice this year to make it do-able. However, after a lot of thought we decided that providing we could cross some easy angled (and usually ice encrusted) slabs low on the route, the rest wouldn't be too conditions dependent.
        Amazingly, we bumped in to Patrick Pessi in the Leschaux refuge- one of the few people to have completed the route. He seemed to think that these slabs would be the crucial part in current conditions. He wasn't wrong! after a very early start we reached the slabs and i spent almost 2 hours going about 20 metres on rediculously easy angled terrain, with no gear and poorly formed thin snow/ice. It was all a little frustrating, as when the face is in really good nick, i reckon you'd be moving together or soloing this without batting an eye lid.

The lower section, with the shield taken by "Manitua" above me.
Lower section and slabs with the walker in profile on the left.
From the Schrund the wall between the Colton and the Croz spur is REALLY IMPRESSIVE.
After v-threading off and over the schrund we were already planning a second attempt. I think we've found a way to out flank the slabs on the far right then cut in.
    Time's running out with Montenver shutting on Sunday.......

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