tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43164464588525146402024-03-12T08:45:23.364-07:00 Will Sim's blogIts all about the mileageWill Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-53015187579318740012015-12-09T10:24:00.000-08:002015-12-17T12:28:05.764-08:00AmericaSwimming with dolphins, meeting the Queen, falling in love, standing on the moon. Everyone seems to be talking about "bucket lists" nowadays.<br />
<br />
If a climber was to have a bucket list, I think that close to the top of the list would be to do a road-trip in America. With autumnal alpine conditions looking less than average, this year seemed like a good time to head west in search of the American dream. Despite having been to Alaska a number of times, I felt like I'd never been to America itself. Burgers and pristine granite were calling.<br />
<br />
After a summer of guiding in the Alps, fellow snowplodder, Fairhead specialist and Ireland's most handsome climber John Mccune and myself had hatched a vague plan to go and get shutdown by some wide cracks in Yosemite, followed by wherever the wind would take us. With a load of friends also floating around the US this autumn, it was sure to be a fun trip climbing or not.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdT2u3tvD_XYG2NXF3cEjQnCC_lH6TfqVPpBpLxsRgXmZZ5mljRCM8L03-9D9zIB-v6qreZ0tof3RcpEJC8a9OqupoLh9IDgkGtRcOkx72Y8TCkhnaNWUbjAcvWx_EPdzzekOMy3Nle4el/s1600/62833_10153022901380223_2004100779_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdT2u3tvD_XYG2NXF3cEjQnCC_lH6TfqVPpBpLxsRgXmZZ5mljRCM8L03-9D9zIB-v6qreZ0tof3RcpEJC8a9OqupoLh9IDgkGtRcOkx72Y8TCkhnaNWUbjAcvWx_EPdzzekOMy3Nle4el/s320/62833_10153022901380223_2004100779_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yosemite, arguably the most famous climbing valley in the world is a curious case of juxtaposition. A 1000 metre cliff of impeccable white and gold granite sits a leisurely 5 minutes stroll from a tourist loop road. Hundreds of king-sized Americans and pocket size Asians are carted around on an open top tour bus, bad jokes and trivia blasting out of speakers. Above, climbers strapped to El Cap are getting scared, strung-out and having a very different experience. <br />
<br />
Upon arriving in "the valley", we set about our Yosemite apprenticeship. Cragging at Arch rock - my favourite small crag in the valley - and doing many medium-sized classics. Moratorium, The Rostrum, D.N.B (highly recommended, and no, it doesn't sand for Do Not Bother), Astroman, South face of Washington Column. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKIQ5DTQLmYpD8D-r7MHFUdPNvmEHtBydIdgfmdNMWJtKAWvFCt24vYRg4RfzwckEoDXBuii-ayASHFC15_j8DcAmwCQ7kAr7El7cm2d5f8oXZJAbHyCbhi0WPp3j2Hz9p0QcAz0PNYW1/s1600/P1090889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKIQ5DTQLmYpD8D-r7MHFUdPNvmEHtBydIdgfmdNMWJtKAWvFCt24vYRg4RfzwckEoDXBuii-ayASHFC15_j8DcAmwCQ7kAr7El7cm2d5f8oXZJAbHyCbhi0WPp3j2Hz9p0QcAz0PNYW1/s640/P1090889.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moratorium</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8z1q10L5PWeJsrUnVWHQPx_-ZVAxk3QaffUUoxLIPcPqhyphenhyphenrZKbOq7uqAq5daD5yLWRlhioamfvRoZwa8xhAGZcIC-IFQXckcDBbtO1yT2JLnRltxwo92B5Uj7H6koD4EOrbMZ7Zm4Ys-/s1600/P1090904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8z1q10L5PWeJsrUnVWHQPx_-ZVAxk3QaffUUoxLIPcPqhyphenhyphenrZKbOq7uqAq5daD5yLWRlhioamfvRoZwa8xhAGZcIC-IFQXckcDBbtO1yT2JLnRltxwo92B5Uj7H6koD4EOrbMZ7Zm4Ys-/s640/P1090904.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Cap - a site to behold.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7A_c4KQC77NFiBSPr-GE2vDPwO-7EH46oVLgdfTA32VvTbPVU8I3gZBxx-oE4ee__7rhV_ur3BcIGdd3m-e3R2MFT8jqPHS16xUYq4a7MymfdPffuZwP3MydS_4HnhucADtzmRRcY29ui/s1600/P1090907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7A_c4KQC77NFiBSPr-GE2vDPwO-7EH46oVLgdfTA32VvTbPVU8I3gZBxx-oE4ee__7rhV_ur3BcIGdd3m-e3R2MFT8jqPHS16xUYq4a7MymfdPffuZwP3MydS_4HnhucADtzmRRcY29ui/s640/P1090907.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some amusing toilet graffiti.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCWRM1EWEdDIRdje-xQsAZiQtNynIXcXfhjp8HpL6fPI-mnKB0uaQKWAVEU5QJ8v2iUE6zhUQSRqQDZV35t1XXp2lGENCKbLU0fis9T-txM-sheXT2cJaHOM5FzEIwCyZn5ruCKprelL9-/s1600/P1090915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCWRM1EWEdDIRdje-xQsAZiQtNynIXcXfhjp8HpL6fPI-mnKB0uaQKWAVEU5QJ8v2iUE6zhUQSRqQDZV35t1XXp2lGENCKbLU0fis9T-txM-sheXT2cJaHOM5FzEIwCyZn5ruCKprelL9-/s640/P1090915.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refining(/discovering) our aid skills.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCK7PtNQhceA-fxTaVAIsc3ZW8c9x-2j9GlBa227_S-YgY2mbuDnaES08BALOXHnW-uYcdi2PG_7H4k3p7KUFqvYgIIO_TyQptLNIerk8i9JW-hVAe8t2e3isO4Nwu5La4XWfHZl2e0vm/s1600/P1090943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCK7PtNQhceA-fxTaVAIsc3ZW8c9x-2j9GlBa227_S-YgY2mbuDnaES08BALOXHnW-uYcdi2PG_7H4k3p7KUFqvYgIIO_TyQptLNIerk8i9JW-hVAe8t2e3isO4Nwu5La4XWfHZl2e0vm/s640/P1090943.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The world classic that is Astroman.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeL44iTZP0zt8ZmksuZOH-O3fyn0Fr3f42kIUzMrY0agS5Y5Bg1nqcPnU0JSXAyWIHExaWuvDZtuTd1X9lPgBCtK-M4r-kJ7EJcKzNCcsn43ALTGz9BhpFJe72PqYG6lHp8zi7FEizGmo/s1600/P1090955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeL44iTZP0zt8ZmksuZOH-O3fyn0Fr3f42kIUzMrY0agS5Y5Bg1nqcPnU0JSXAyWIHExaWuvDZtuTd1X9lPgBCtK-M4r-kJ7EJcKzNCcsn43ALTGz9BhpFJe72PqYG6lHp8zi7FEizGmo/s640/P1090955.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John seconding the Harding slot. A bucket list pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOoR8UP2DdgfyDxEcOatfbHd6lTO_a8D47qAdqomWPis5AANEpY4ZFVqZF40SdhAZPOCmY9k2IUE6yd9TL2_vU3uCRiU5pDLPDcFf4VH0kNvg4uFXdSfHYCQ9jucsRwHovpEiJRNnL6DTe/s1600/P1090965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOoR8UP2DdgfyDxEcOatfbHd6lTO_a8D47qAdqomWPis5AANEpY4ZFVqZF40SdhAZPOCmY9k2IUE6yd9TL2_vU3uCRiU5pDLPDcFf4VH0kNvg4uFXdSfHYCQ9jucsRwHovpEiJRNnL6DTe/s640/P1090965.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The West face of El Cap.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiyj0pa0xYrpfwK_7BCgMSJO1HFEUN9L2Jmdv5Rj9g2fIcttMMmn_bV3iqKsph6kge55kNuK9_bv8-mJFvjHtsdAdhwND6XKk_DjNy03bRrnuI_Twj00ETx-6yM3tv5sx3oKb79WL2DTA/s1600/P1090976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiyj0pa0xYrpfwK_7BCgMSJO1HFEUN9L2Jmdv5Rj9g2fIcttMMmn_bV3iqKsph6kge55kNuK9_bv8-mJFvjHtsdAdhwND6XKk_DjNy03bRrnuI_Twj00ETx-6yM3tv5sx3oKb79WL2DTA/s640/P1090976.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on Crimson Cringe, a contender for the best granite pitch I've ever done.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After a couple of weeks, much panting and screaming inside offwidths and a heavy schooling on many a 5.10, we felt like we were making a bit of progress; we'd sussed the shower situation, how to get in and out of the valley without paying and John had found an array of sections of foam matting he could sleep on. We figured we should get stuck in to something a bit meatier. <br />
<br />
NIAD, or the Nose In A Day was high on our priorites. After a brief recce of the first section the day before, we launched at about 5 a.m. and about 18 hours later both sat next to the famous tree that marks the top of the route on the rim of El Cap. 34 pitches of involved climbing, each more famous than the last had made for a tiring day, especially as we dropped a jumar low down, and never quite got a good system sorted for the next 25 pitches.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsOnvli9c4hJ6brlM6NhrR7ylMEED9VD1nkj65LdjKxopzdaJrZBfzeeNxMBWRg456ruucFpVdlYN95hooH8G6w8-n9UaK5GgGGXuHJIxlcTqUS1f7-KZO3I2HpbHCpWZimBgAgJzbRT8u/s1600/IMAG0275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsOnvli9c4hJ6brlM6NhrR7ylMEED9VD1nkj65LdjKxopzdaJrZBfzeeNxMBWRg456ruucFpVdlYN95hooH8G6w8-n9UaK5GgGGXuHJIxlcTqUS1f7-KZO3I2HpbHCpWZimBgAgJzbRT8u/s640/IMAG0275.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shortly after sunrise, 800 metres of compact granite above.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8T7DbjKIaNmPQq9PEyB29-Elg3lo8k6VHZUiuKy-aUcb2Cd_p1oy7CEEqOJXaK7GtMQIW_qu-gU3MT0F8sXHDpF_2IYQZOyzqYh9U-KBF-rTCh7Ac3xvfnFjefqNi3nRGJ9q9TvNjFbeu/s1600/IMAG0316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8T7DbjKIaNmPQq9PEyB29-Elg3lo8k6VHZUiuKy-aUcb2Cd_p1oy7CEEqOJXaK7GtMQIW_qu-gU3MT0F8sXHDpF_2IYQZOyzqYh9U-KBF-rTCh7Ac3xvfnFjefqNi3nRGJ9q9TvNjFbeu/s640/IMAG0316.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Great Roof. A defining pitch.<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After NIAD and the west face of El Cap, we decided to get involved with trying to free Freerider, a variation to the uber classic Salathe wall. We didn't finish the route, but went to pitch 25 (of about 32) freeing all the pitches apart from one between us, including the "Huber Pitch", the number crux at 12d/13a which John dispatched swiftly. However, we were under no illusion that this was the crux for us, the wide 5.11's being far more of a challenge.<br />
<br />
The route turned in to more of a recce than going for it properly. On waking up at the niche, the corner system above was glazed in ice, and even sported a stalactite on the pitch above the spire. Not exactly what we were expecting, we spent day two huddled in the niche under a bombardment of falling ice. Also, the fact that we hadn't done the monster offwidth on day one (we arrived at its base in the dark, and went up the A1 pitch of Salathe instead) felt like a real copout, being a key, and one of the crux pitches of the route.<br />
<br />
However, it was a great three days we spent on the wall, and now I know what it involves, i'm really inspired to go back and do it properly. Minimal hauling or even in a day, would be a fantastic way to climb freerider.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheE4C7RhhtAUin6mnZsuKgnCySOagNdBWM_StHKhsSB4Q9LjD1NK8nVGhguzJseWZi_WIjggJmUqQiDP5GotvO69xkLgox4mjEbOuK99J_lMCxVRctDxDMacF413RQXqBcJW0VQalxMOq5/s1600/P1090989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheE4C7RhhtAUin6mnZsuKgnCySOagNdBWM_StHKhsSB4Q9LjD1NK8nVGhguzJseWZi_WIjggJmUqQiDP5GotvO69xkLgox4mjEbOuK99J_lMCxVRctDxDMacF413RQXqBcJW0VQalxMOq5/s640/P1090989.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John struggling with the haul bags on the lower section of Freerider.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy1gVQkMbiRpo00tnx7VHO_WbX90jm0ik9f9e4AE-X3phY4l0zk47Rjkx3_2Dp6Ww0ZOM2KGc0QXdfVbR4Bzd2NgCJWamZpAnw29fzI9oVjfEB0acXcOUlIDrX8e1JrmdDa365kWnOaiXo/s1600/P1090984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy1gVQkMbiRpo00tnx7VHO_WbX90jm0ik9f9e4AE-X3phY4l0zk47Rjkx3_2Dp6Ww0ZOM2KGc0QXdfVbR4Bzd2NgCJWamZpAnw29fzI9oVjfEB0acXcOUlIDrX8e1JrmdDa365kWnOaiXo/s640/P1090984.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just above heart ledges, on day 1.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisENKjkmtzSwHiJ5xsHurYu5U5RN-2qvd009KSvMVmFZ1OTNsRtUQ7EGEettgq2xSuTRqLQUzPpc7VHm2Q2H2ef0HuxAm-NXeZRtIyqoV_xCy1iUMFIvjS4hZ0xZhpkE_Gs19kVFsGNhKT/s1600/P1090991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisENKjkmtzSwHiJ5xsHurYu5U5RN-2qvd009KSvMVmFZ1OTNsRtUQ7EGEettgq2xSuTRqLQUzPpc7VHm2Q2H2ef0HuxAm-NXeZRtIyqoV_xCy1iUMFIvjS4hZ0xZhpkE_Gs19kVFsGNhKT/s640/P1090991.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John in the alcove. A luxurious bivi.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv5XpFCdrHiLhyphenhyphenh341VonLsAHSX-g1cDHx8PIPZmAFTV5V5_dmDRQHQV8vVFnRFCArflSTNRHtjo_aLAbd6HL0OcXA8RT38M3ZR-6TbvrJU2IiHEbltaIlZGmPDUzdi_Y4jFxBLW9l9ML/s1600/2015-11-09+15.29.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv5XpFCdrHiLhyphenhyphenh341VonLsAHSX-g1cDHx8PIPZmAFTV5V5_dmDRQHQV8vVFnRFCArflSTNRHtjo_aLAbd6HL0OcXA8RT38M3ZR-6TbvrJU2IiHEbltaIlZGmPDUzdi_Y4jFxBLW9l9ML/s640/2015-11-09+15.29.18.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John chilling on El Cap spire.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHw7X4ynefUcgMAr1mr1czl8A4gc968_jBPWstKKVRLxFliRUNT_Mj9DQUAW35I1s6AU8BhfEs1lqWd3FnL2ujiWGhpLdEp-PW22_ZhnU7k_rsxuDkSLwSwHIpq8I_Dz8ubL5JjNmbdqw/s1600/P1100005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHw7X4ynefUcgMAr1mr1czl8A4gc968_jBPWstKKVRLxFliRUNT_Mj9DQUAW35I1s6AU8BhfEs1lqWd3FnL2ujiWGhpLdEp-PW22_ZhnU7k_rsxuDkSLwSwHIpq8I_Dz8ubL5JjNmbdqw/s640/P1100005.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on the 11c offwidth above the spire.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNYqqsQKFO8iEZa1z9oA-wUzoolH6-we6diteYj4z34sMLCzSVP-YE9WDL9jVZGlPUOItdm5a-MmTTuNFPwYkbqdBiXHsgHROOpVOto7HNyseTTff41ZKO3tkEyGBpTGwalL6270gVOkk/s1600/P1100006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNYqqsQKFO8iEZa1z9oA-wUzoolH6-we6diteYj4z34sMLCzSVP-YE9WDL9jVZGlPUOItdm5a-MmTTuNFPwYkbqdBiXHsgHROOpVOto7HNyseTTff41ZKO3tkEyGBpTGwalL6270gVOkk/s640/P1100006.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning climbing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3q0RlJh90tJ_v6tCf-Xe7Xjn8Md482IptE-ZjqfZ2pb7yDR3rigRvocarZw9dfxTRwWxxSyLH4URGYKDeK2L5hyphenhyphenBez_G4naTqnlGFC8F2QJk4Ix9NV346u8gG0fiwKgHeDY0YhcKGgSni/s1600/P1100021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3q0RlJh90tJ_v6tCf-Xe7Xjn8Md482IptE-ZjqfZ2pb7yDR3rigRvocarZw9dfxTRwWxxSyLH4URGYKDeK2L5hyphenhyphenBez_G4naTqnlGFC8F2QJk4Ix9NV346u8gG0fiwKgHeDY0YhcKGgSni/s640/P1100021.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening light on the Muir wall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TAqzMn_C5DFFV5xpQhMNmdHppzt80zMzHHLlY1ettAOn8DzBLK8G8KERAIMiZ9eC3CB134wJ_JASgUNjIHs05w_h1gXDjSG6BS4izmuiJk-3eqPRSAiCHOA_dx_AVKNl-ow-tVMjFAy0/s1600/P1100035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TAqzMn_C5DFFV5xpQhMNmdHppzt80zMzHHLlY1ettAOn8DzBLK8G8KERAIMiZ9eC3CB134wJ_JASgUNjIHs05w_h1gXDjSG6BS4izmuiJk-3eqPRSAiCHOA_dx_AVKNl-ow-tVMjFAy0/s640/P1100035.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John on the Huber pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We went from pitch 24 of freerider to the pizza house in about 5 hours, which really goes to show how well designed El Cap is for climbers. After a month in the valley we were definitely wanting out, so we went surfing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1fpdFIxgZw_ptHtdGKzRaibpp_0m1b91eU_EYBDVZ8gKjjB-VgKDj1Wk78KvbUQiFil20HghQ1uzI2GDJpeOyN0z4ofTlKyPCmm-XgNaCUC4cSz8RbOk_4Em3eRqMHbIAsinj2iW22DM/s1600/P1100037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1fpdFIxgZw_ptHtdGKzRaibpp_0m1b91eU_EYBDVZ8gKjjB-VgKDj1Wk78KvbUQiFil20HghQ1uzI2GDJpeOyN0z4ofTlKyPCmm-XgNaCUC4cSz8RbOk_4Em3eRqMHbIAsinj2iW22DM/s640/P1100037.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A massive whale.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xz4t7PoMsx6Le2MEbJsyEfAPScRSWAczsPlAolVl0w0EB_XPIN4YWQh75D6CUBcleCNYrAMM47DVz_B_R2msfWb1FC8m3tiiNYDQhrDcwH9lyn_h3zlP8jFQNRZFB5p5V2Arpww2pwQx/s1600/P1100053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xz4t7PoMsx6Le2MEbJsyEfAPScRSWAczsPlAolVl0w0EB_XPIN4YWQh75D6CUBcleCNYrAMM47DVz_B_R2msfWb1FC8m3tiiNYDQhrDcwH9lyn_h3zlP8jFQNRZFB5p5V2Arpww2pwQx/s640/P1100053.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pacific surf in Santa Cruz. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As per normal, I got scared and thought I was going to die, but it was a lot of fun.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3E2zd2Z0gQ-bYEL6wBO6mQ-1u0igaZI9o3ne8yFjRPJA4K7p5zVKep0Qi3hQC-OECeThgMKum-YbgBshBlYRVQr1AFWRl3kaRYr_slHVLVtE2xQuWdiwe7KBi79rXcThVhSlp190VuaC/s1600/P1100068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3E2zd2Z0gQ-bYEL6wBO6mQ-1u0igaZI9o3ne8yFjRPJA4K7p5zVKep0Qi3hQC-OECeThgMKum-YbgBshBlYRVQr1AFWRl3kaRYr_slHVLVtE2xQuWdiwe7KBi79rXcThVhSlp190VuaC/s640/P1100068.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fun week was spent with my friend Michelle from Seattle. She taught me the ways of America and laughed at my bad driving.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After an abortive but fun mission to the Needles (too much snow), we found ourselves in Red Rocks, Vegas, and another rock climbing paradise.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhchn-lNWi4NLO0x2VpbiOolaHmKkBjJm-G5yZcggRc00oJjplmN8ZbgY88VclBoBrOtwd6qXaB2UHcNuvfEipHgd85iAB1X66LDzCzk1iIHpamM9Natuf5le_WsygZ0jxsn0Cd8_z09fRb/s1600/P1100109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhchn-lNWi4NLO0x2VpbiOolaHmKkBjJm-G5yZcggRc00oJjplmN8ZbgY88VclBoBrOtwd6qXaB2UHcNuvfEipHgd85iAB1X66LDzCzk1iIHpamM9Natuf5le_WsygZ0jxsn0Cd8_z09fRb/s640/P1100109.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John on Cloud Tower.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSRhPGp-PUT1dTR1_55Eyl7nTpItb16BF9UIwHuJFOj8ZRBYldsVA3ohHUqwEp1AJedYBed8sx2h74hHVlFMa-lL4U0iFJVxV7EW9XPYVWv-poNpX7AB5j1xQFYtPDyssXjJEvRDn1bnA/s1600/P1100133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSRhPGp-PUT1dTR1_55Eyl7nTpItb16BF9UIwHuJFOj8ZRBYldsVA3ohHUqwEp1AJedYBed8sx2h74hHVlFMa-lL4U0iFJVxV7EW9XPYVWv-poNpX7AB5j1xQFYtPDyssXjJEvRDn1bnA/s640/P1100133.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather on Cloud Tower.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZsVm-KjzAMa9R6RiEavu4oFYfWbic1DJY-0RzcaecpwJSvVy_Hrn_QSumyynBea2BcbiTjZZI1d-hc2CmzGwSavat0PuAWZLjk98-h9eRtHuGcpjYlvh-wi1piYmMYJiL8KEGjuKYaKu/s1600/2015-11-22+17.36.09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZsVm-KjzAMa9R6RiEavu4oFYfWbic1DJY-0RzcaecpwJSvVy_Hrn_QSumyynBea2BcbiTjZZI1d-hc2CmzGwSavat0PuAWZLjk98-h9eRtHuGcpjYlvh-wi1piYmMYJiL8KEGjuKYaKu/s640/2015-11-22+17.36.09.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather styling.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQGC74No1ve-e0DDxiIPzegZc3QMB5_E7oOT6TfxiuziSzHK8T6g0zRbmh3zjnmPII4n95HY5NmIruEHzVwJ0alRJIK08dSFUJd0y7Q5UoMWbl0m9K-jCPjDGQPblHjtaWeWuWLNVY2J5/s1600/DSC07191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQGC74No1ve-e0DDxiIPzegZc3QMB5_E7oOT6TfxiuziSzHK8T6g0zRbmh3zjnmPII4n95HY5NmIruEHzVwJ0alRJIK08dSFUJd0y7Q5UoMWbl0m9K-jCPjDGQPblHjtaWeWuWLNVY2J5/s640/DSC07191.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on pitch 1 of Rainbow wall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcyy5rRjwmVLDnEmzsqyBf1EumxZ-d5u_VcPA3Q6BYOnqbzliQXEXx48BGDmGulFRGPgiqBjYrL5bYbOoZ44QnYfnFLbbjbaDg5IsTilOS5jXPygmUBskYDbEOpb9yIkk4FF9YHzG7LNZ/s1600/P1100176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcyy5rRjwmVLDnEmzsqyBf1EumxZ-d5u_VcPA3Q6BYOnqbzliQXEXx48BGDmGulFRGPgiqBjYrL5bYbOoZ44QnYfnFLbbjbaDg5IsTilOS5jXPygmUBskYDbEOpb9yIkk4FF9YHzG7LNZ/s640/P1100176.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rainbow wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjq31BODMCb614tlNvHrK9YzGCEswqObCKeUo0cpfsNZFHgCTUBUmdaixE8l-5grOG6dYfdFWmroVhdjC4iGP8bNF2ObxnprPx947S03nMH5zwuCC6C9XVao5ZEhW0S3-fxhfi5BS7KPJC/s1600/DSC07189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjq31BODMCb614tlNvHrK9YzGCEswqObCKeUo0cpfsNZFHgCTUBUmdaixE8l-5grOG6dYfdFWmroVhdjC4iGP8bNF2ObxnprPx947S03nMH5zwuCC6C9XVao5ZEhW0S3-fxhfi5BS7KPJC/s640/DSC07189.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John on Monster Skank. An amazing 13b that just managed to evade us both. Next time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Although at first it seemed wrong to be sport climbing in America, we were lured in to a fantastic route in the last few days of our trip called "Monster Skank", our redpoints were ending higher and higher, but fate intervened. We had one last chance to get it on the last day, but John discovered the morning we left for the crag that his passport, harness, and rock shoes had been misplaced. Climbing Monster Skank was no longer a possibility, as we made a frantic drive to the British consulate in San Francisco in order to get an emergency passport before out flight back to the UK the next day.<br />
<br />
A great 1st world adventure. I can see this being the first of many rock trips to the US. A country designed for road-tripping, crack climbing, and mass consumption of burgers and IPA.<br />
<br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-46240731436459614092015-05-03T09:32:00.001-07:002015-05-07T04:00:10.165-07:00The NW face of Mount Deborah For a couple of years I've been thinking of alternative Alaskan trips. That is alternative to the Central Alaska range. Soaring granite faces dripping with ice, endless daylight and easy access via ski plane make the Central Alaska range undoubtedly one of the world meccas of alpine climbing. However there's a lot more to AK than Denali, Hunter and the Ruth Gorge and it was during one of my favourite pastimes - scouring the world on Google Earth for big cool looking faces - that i discovered there were some huge looking unclimbed faces in the more eastern "Hayes" range.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdJDxnnXXoXINkmyDDL-LDs6TXsDTT_UvOfOj985LWZcaHZmw2PffX-KectzdSiRxLHC8iWFbYp8jM69Mikircq3AvnPvrz9xcVrpbel-nKC89QxpxYY0_YOipek0-LsWb-ni-lCIDjlP/s1600/187868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdJDxnnXXoXINkmyDDL-LDs6TXsDTT_UvOfOj985LWZcaHZmw2PffX-KectzdSiRxLHC8iWFbYp8jM69Mikircq3AvnPvrz9xcVrpbel-nKC89QxpxYY0_YOipek0-LsWb-ni-lCIDjlP/s1600/187868.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Alaska range on the left, the eastern ranges on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After a little more research; reading the incredible account of the tenacious 1978 north face of mount Deborah expedition, and the FA of the east ridge in 1982 by John Barry, Roger Mear, Rob Collister, Carl Tobin and Dave Cheesmond (<a href="http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198407500/print">this</a> is an awesome read)Mount Deborah, arguably the baddest of all the mountains in the Hayes was well and truly burned in to my brain as a mountain of mythical presence. After sending a couple of photos to Jon back in November it took the whole of 2 seconds until my Skype window was flashing orange with a "lets do it" kind of reply and it was on.</div>
<div>
<br />
There are huge 2000m+ unclimbed faces on both the north and south side of Deborah. We ruled out the south side as we thought by the time we got there (mid April) it would be receiving too much sun for its exfoliating schist to cope with. The stunning NE face has a true "dream" line on it at first glance, but further probing reveals a suicidal approach amongst other problems. The NW aspect however looked promising; a pyramidal face with no apparent serac issues. It felt like a huge gamble going purely off the 3d image of Google earth and no actual photo, but then again, that was part of the attraction of this wild and relatively unexplored range of mountains.</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi25CwdTRpNLnYqy6jL0jo0cJo76ofixgkL0FKsMaVgGe5scPA6wzZRXvErlNM43dxi8DCfFjrfOiDJ5bMgWVIfdiAoYNl_-n5bhFdT5z5nFtZDnL0ccXg1FcL-OOd0NGIa-aQBhyphenhyphenJDgVRb/s1600/deborah+googleearth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi25CwdTRpNLnYqy6jL0jo0cJo76ofixgkL0FKsMaVgGe5scPA6wzZRXvErlNM43dxi8DCfFjrfOiDJ5bMgWVIfdiAoYNl_-n5bhFdT5z5nFtZDnL0ccXg1FcL-OOd0NGIa-aQBhyphenhyphenJDgVRb/s1600/deborah+googleearth.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google earth view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJFQCjvvgRX3Ugie1ttLz9RRlwfGKt7iIufKKp8-TC49UxRwFUNWN6JSGEzRKoPEaXOsMVB-qIxFbcb0UJTMsMPICmj0vbGcIYsoeejhyphenhyphen6DrumzAzN5NvRN_q0TT3nEwf4SO2uB7egw51D/s1600/389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJFQCjvvgRX3Ugie1ttLz9RRlwfGKt7iIufKKp8-TC49UxRwFUNWN6JSGEzRKoPEaXOsMVB-qIxFbcb0UJTMsMPICmj0vbGcIYsoeejhyphenhyphen6DrumzAzN5NvRN_q0TT3nEwf4SO2uB7egw51D/s1600/389.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The real thing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The trip was a full on adventure: an organisational cock-up early on left us unsure that we could even access the upper Gillam glacier (and the base of Deborah) at all. Hitching up the Alaskan highway to Fairbanks with 200kg of kit. Becoming helicopter mechanics for two days before the pilot could give us a lift in to the range. Trying to halve our weight so the tiny R44 heli could take off. Having our base camp destroyed on the first night in a storm that made Patagonian winds seem trivial. </div>
<div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeE_AAZO-BYOVCHWXyhnh_Lsto-TXtMjzDoX22s9Fl5oRlDY4pSCrJxKfZoGiuO_BHYLbhdzpiORsdk0dSzQkNprm0Meoy6-JaLglgNEJlgzh5j4_W7IoZAWkcj6wKcuZbr7GLyZC7r4h6/s1600/260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeE_AAZO-BYOVCHWXyhnh_Lsto-TXtMjzDoX22s9Fl5oRlDY4pSCrJxKfZoGiuO_BHYLbhdzpiORsdk0dSzQkNprm0Meoy6-JaLglgNEJlgzh5j4_W7IoZAWkcj6wKcuZbr7GLyZC7r4h6/s1600/260.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex said he'd fly us on to the Gillam glacier if we spent a couple of days helping him fix this heli first. Only in Alaska!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0XI1mTeq-JSt2cn2yWq8WUHrOtTmWCE8gu69rSmzGVMoAN29EYi4cRLOunsanlw5jF__PHWXGXIliD1qV84KHDLqNzknvnhoP-mxY7BO8bBuhw4I-YV8cuaeGnfwmHBF7TPLP1aXaXAIJ/s1600/281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0XI1mTeq-JSt2cn2yWq8WUHrOtTmWCE8gu69rSmzGVMoAN29EYi4cRLOunsanlw5jF__PHWXGXIliD1qV84KHDLqNzknvnhoP-mxY7BO8bBuhw4I-YV8cuaeGnfwmHBF7TPLP1aXaXAIJ/s1600/281.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcCS6kTyVXAhT7W8xJ2Db9mBcJh0fc3Qfvtbn37lw6yNarLGxixZJ4z5aWHu2SBQKPgsQRuIYsTwi1KY0kS4VxQ5B54j7K5bKRuTIcdBqzIISLHy5L6IJ4X2Cs2ikvsLebTbTUqzfqH4_/s1600/288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcCS6kTyVXAhT7W8xJ2Db9mBcJh0fc3Qfvtbn37lw6yNarLGxixZJ4z5aWHu2SBQKPgsQRuIYsTwi1KY0kS4VxQ5B54j7K5bKRuTIcdBqzIISLHy5L6IJ4X2Cs2ikvsLebTbTUqzfqH4_/s1600/288.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying in at last!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx59d4SBMearwsFg8MassYbpdV1zOLAWH1UaE2zA_2uazq17k6Q_-XISn2vr4p_i1yQ7kRjMe_e1lxcVQ__wselNaeBs42DrcA8x-Bah4ioa2__PM2W8l0S59dYYCxk22Cl2dzdKg1RvnS/s1600/294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx59d4SBMearwsFg8MassYbpdV1zOLAWH1UaE2zA_2uazq17k6Q_-XISn2vr4p_i1yQ7kRjMe_e1lxcVQ__wselNaeBs42DrcA8x-Bah4ioa2__PM2W8l0S59dYYCxk22Cl2dzdKg1RvnS/s1600/294.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first two days on the glacier were pure survival after our tent got destroyed. We spent two days digging this hole which we lived in for the rest of the trip.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIKsTRv88u9cuYUj3kcJYlYx0DI2v1aX2i83Uts1v7Ic-6nZuf0wlXnI4qA4xrYrU38LZWDKjE1pKXcAMzpxkE1eYE6lsVbVdS_aCsAe4w9DXIbsdQoMYLaIyNe3wkTMauSYCW3Uhf-Gpo/s1600/308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIKsTRv88u9cuYUj3kcJYlYx0DI2v1aX2i83Uts1v7Ic-6nZuf0wlXnI4qA4xrYrU38LZWDKjE1pKXcAMzpxkE1eYE6lsVbVdS_aCsAe4w9DXIbsdQoMYLaIyNe3wkTMauSYCW3Uhf-Gpo/s1600/308.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reading material - very important.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
The climb itself was one of the hardest three days either of us have spent in the mountains, and the face was undoubtedly the most spooky and unnerving thing I've ever been on. However i don't want to ruin it and i'll write up the story of the climb in detail another time, once I've let the whole thing sink in.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Here's a small selection of photos from the mountain:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5bixEMNrnjLyuYQPVAJKeFVkTjSseo2G6-2hoNTHUpodAjGGbgSj3t5tQw9kb-DhtBk6HEIIkHkBNtN76i1HpO3ArmB8CAjVj2NhcaMpoaK77KNLVaPCDVy3I6WoP1AblS36fNzsewxa/s1600/404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5bixEMNrnjLyuYQPVAJKeFVkTjSseo2G6-2hoNTHUpodAjGGbgSj3t5tQw9kb-DhtBk6HEIIkHkBNtN76i1HpO3ArmB8CAjVj2NhcaMpoaK77KNLVaPCDVy3I6WoP1AblS36fNzsewxa/s1600/404.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When stood at the bottom of some faces they lie back and look a lot more manageable.This one reared up and looked truly nasty!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8-syQEV_yEOBDx1sq0efA63MUewEUKLYcM5UxUT4nb3MLsGRIbAIGhi3rY9r1VB9_3czC0sNnp__ej4_VdDXRv9xyHiFqrdpgHl7a1ccW525uuCME4Ctyme2wY8aPLD8aerkOV96-WF8/s1600/402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8-syQEV_yEOBDx1sq0efA63MUewEUKLYcM5UxUT4nb3MLsGRIbAIGhi3rY9r1VB9_3czC0sNnp__ej4_VdDXRv9xyHiFqrdpgHl7a1ccW525uuCME4Ctyme2wY8aPLD8aerkOV96-WF8/s1600/402.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half way up the face where things start to turn a bit spicy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3hcPWVUz09GyqF7qpmEeZhPhz8gHGtNI6k0xfzceumxB85EFbL28bAr1wGAy-zXDy97rzhN0Vw4Q7U3vv3sUb6qLtFuJYM-2TpNrd_gnuwc_syHSCMG7lKe7wo4RdpyGpGXL9WBLLUU9n/s1600/326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3hcPWVUz09GyqF7qpmEeZhPhz8gHGtNI6k0xfzceumxB85EFbL28bAr1wGAy-zXDy97rzhN0Vw4Q7U3vv3sUb6qLtFuJYM-2TpNrd_gnuwc_syHSCMG7lKe7wo4RdpyGpGXL9WBLLUU9n/s1600/326.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon on a traverse high up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkWpJ_WkJa5t8kda8Noxm-OyKIxiJAxfpGGSh9v47Mxsf5Zy73Wij65oRmM5bFD09fLii-WPZQG5rdNwT1A1p8Rr6TEZNShoaLo8yeJJpTyeHwTV8NRQruKotH96By9F4_cPndUSvgSpG/s1600/334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkWpJ_WkJa5t8kda8Noxm-OyKIxiJAxfpGGSh9v47Mxsf5Zy73Wij65oRmM5bFD09fLii-WPZQG5rdNwT1A1p8Rr6TEZNShoaLo8yeJJpTyeHwTV8NRQruKotH96By9F4_cPndUSvgSpG/s1600/334.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself feeling it on the second morning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDde_iKaCJ-MaF5wBEZbA2oBd_nQVTE3JUAe1alMqz01rkFBlrWQ5kesma7zcWyhqpCTyrCI-T9wgqiNQUKKDca-fHgexdGVhaYCI9mp0byzzY3Z7cxapKS4vlrfJdSFCIiobccly5JDm/s1600/403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDde_iKaCJ-MaF5wBEZbA2oBd_nQVTE3JUAe1alMqz01rkFBlrWQ5kesma7zcWyhqpCTyrCI-T9wgqiNQUKKDca-fHgexdGVhaYCI9mp0byzzY3Z7cxapKS4vlrfJdSFCIiobccly5JDm/s1600/403.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to start the never ending knife-edge summit ridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Stay tuned for some awesome shots over on Jon's blog in a day or two!<br />
<br />
Many thanks to Outdoor Research, the BMC, Alpine Club, Alex Shapiro, Alex's wife, Clint Helander, Rob Wing, the dudes that picked us up when hitching and the many other very generous helpful and friendly Alaskans who made this trip work out!<br />
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-19161976617834369862015-01-09T02:42:00.000-08:002015-01-09T03:25:07.896-08:005 reasons why you should watch this<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
</div>
<div>
I recently re-watched this film, made 45 years ago about the 1970 British Annapurna South face expedition. 55 minutes is a lot of your life not to get back, so here's why you should watch it-</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Sieging in the Himalaya gets a bed rep nowadays.
But its clear that in 1970, it was cutting edge, audacious and badass. This was
arguably the first time a mountain in the Himalaya was climbed not by its
easiest route.</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Haston, Whillans,
Clough, Boysen, Bonnington and Estcourt </span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">were all hugely active
in developing the best crags in the UK. We climb their routes all the time whether
it be on the grit, at Gogarth, in the pass, on Scafell or on the Ben. Not to
mention the Alps. Facebook didn’t have athlete pages in 1970, but in this film
you get to know these characters a bit.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">As well as being a total wad, Don Whillans was
good with words. He's a pleasure to listen to in this film.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">In a time when its
hard to find a climbing film that doesn't reak of melodrama, hyperbole and have obligatory unrelated base-jumping,
this is a breath of fresh air. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">I don’t want to ruin
it, so watch it!</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<!--[if !supportLists]--><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ASs95G49OjI" width="420"></iframe>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-36278320680809233542014-11-15T09:07:00.000-08:002014-11-15T09:12:45.233-08:00In-betweenAutumn's a weird time for a climber who is as entwined in the shifting of the seasons as i am. The week i got back from Canada was spent unpacking, unwinding and lazing about. It took almost two weeks for me to realise that winter wasn't going to arrive any sooner, and it would probably take longer if i didn't somehow escape in the meantime. Luckily for us Europeans there's a place always within cheap easy reach, which guarantees an autumnal paradise of rock, blue skies, cheap food and wine. Off to Spain i went.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzV14befTMGQadsgTHrile-oL6l08bA5M5Sy4esMf-Q5teWAIGQ52qGDPzF3fIBIXj7obKareq1dbD8ddRp4gx090FfmHYCsuG9BWxr1EZogtjWNLdaUUFjrsPIoNJPN34y0MSR786ktS/s1600/114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzV14befTMGQadsgTHrile-oL6l08bA5M5Sy4esMf-Q5teWAIGQ52qGDPzF3fIBIXj7obKareq1dbD8ddRp4gx090FfmHYCsuG9BWxr1EZogtjWNLdaUUFjrsPIoNJPN34y0MSR786ktS/s1600/114.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bullock and Slawinski on redpoint.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was blown away by some of the sport climbing we did in the last week in Canada. I was also blown away by how Canadian sport climbers weren't bothered by a one and a half hour walk to the crag, when here in Europe, we moan when we have to walk 20 minutes to clip bolts! Much to my surprise, a few days after we got down from the north face of Alberta, i squeezed my frost-nipped toes in to tight rock shoes and dragged myself up a brilliant 8a.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfGklNWEvPGtZ4nAPgJ4hRVa7W7K-QAaJex_zwV2mbL0yDmHNZByOkuj4hhqpzI-HBBQNKFpxjwuFCZUW2If2PDM2H5l0w_bee-6bGH_puKyjOOJu2Bam7qJNczL5DUJ109f2xx9cKzHN/s1600/067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfGklNWEvPGtZ4nAPgJ4hRVa7W7K-QAaJex_zwV2mbL0yDmHNZByOkuj4hhqpzI-HBBQNKFpxjwuFCZUW2If2PDM2H5l0w_bee-6bGH_puKyjOOJu2Bam7qJNczL5DUJ109f2xx9cKzHN/s1600/067.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice evening round the head.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfSj7v0VJucyykl5VHrJxhsgoji1Kuk0R0OROCm_SV7vzOmUALQjcGSIhTKSxit-AA7ka-Yh5zZ6oqvnqhWF0WvcfS8suZ6Qvp3DMLKPUfPBMsRADSwS-zNlK5JK5Fu31h1vZXYGq8h2B/s1600/031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfSj7v0VJucyykl5VHrJxhsgoji1Kuk0R0OROCm_SV7vzOmUALQjcGSIhTKSxit-AA7ka-Yh5zZ6oqvnqhWF0WvcfS8suZ6Qvp3DMLKPUfPBMsRADSwS-zNlK5JK5Fu31h1vZXYGq8h2B/s1600/031.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Van life in Rodellar.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMR8uh5xWQ975fhFPPUc70jY5DXhROIwGeb40NWA6rC2LX38c0kU-DUtoQOIGT9xbjTReVqX21Sso_r8e-rNBKLz95vpgt6LKRZbSBh7tX-1H1RzP-te3ElDDdlx6L-_JEpcCQyOLAMAe5/s1600/080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMR8uh5xWQ975fhFPPUc70jY5DXhROIwGeb40NWA6rC2LX38c0kU-DUtoQOIGT9xbjTReVqX21Sso_r8e-rNBKLz95vpgt6LKRZbSBh7tX-1H1RzP-te3ElDDdlx6L-_JEpcCQyOLAMAe5/s1600/080.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rodellar is tufa heaven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was my first time in Rodellar, and it is indeed heaven. The land of lactic lived up to its name, and spat me off more tufas than i got up, but i thoroughly enjoyed my schooling in knee bars and drop knees - a style that i could do with getting to grips with!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggWXr32zjZpmvvSQD4T4QEfg0R9-EAYFBTvwiK7MMnjvIsI412lrtlyIozsQ4ccnLd97ZFQKpA-7IMjWyl32DWDpxbwoBFWhcaO0OZ-KwJ4RRpONiz3LTkQwa-1o1dsMN-NkBM871Kaq5X/s1600/136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggWXr32zjZpmvvSQD4T4QEfg0R9-EAYFBTvwiK7MMnjvIsI412lrtlyIozsQ4ccnLd97ZFQKpA-7IMjWyl32DWDpxbwoBFWhcaO0OZ-KwJ4RRpONiz3LTkQwa-1o1dsMN-NkBM871Kaq5X/s1600/136.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruth and her guns.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1qfrJVPPPkJmx5K6lfPzJg_HQoG_GKltNxOtz7fywdOP4bIE9aQJeth3DOBrV-s-tt2M1IalN-CrYbJkNEua9eyBXqCJFvu9InWpNM97qyJ8dy6ICy39FvxXnDAs9ozT3Z24XYE6jcKwL/s1600/10806229_595842667194291_524159735324657180_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1qfrJVPPPkJmx5K6lfPzJg_HQoG_GKltNxOtz7fywdOP4bIE9aQJeth3DOBrV-s-tt2M1IalN-CrYbJkNEua9eyBXqCJFvu9InWpNM97qyJ8dy6ICy39FvxXnDAs9ozT3Z24XYE6jcKwL/s1600/10806229_595842667194291_524159735324657180_n.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From beautiful Catalunya to the dark ugly confines of a dry tooling crag. Photo Credit - Steve Ashworth</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On returning from Spain, i headed over to "The Works". This place has really taken off in recent years, and its great to see all the hard work Paddy, Brian and others put in has rewarded hundreds of tool-mad folk from around the country.<br />
I hadn't been dry-tooling (apart from 30 mins in Newtyle last December) in two years, but after locating all the hooks, i managed "Guardian of the Underworld" D12.<br />
<br />
<br />
As you may have noticed the Twitter feed on the blog, i'm now on Twitter - please follow me!<br />
<br />
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-65526442324119296452014-10-03T07:44:00.001-07:002014-10-03T10:07:21.690-07:00The North Face of Mount AlbertaSomehow we pulled it off, the plan A, the big one, shit, i didn't think that ever happened.<br />
<br />
The North Face of Alberta is what i'd call a mythical face. In form, its pyramidal spike of a gable-end is so pleasingly intimidating, it must be one of the most spectacular faces i know of. This incredible photo by the aerial photographer John Scurlock is what inspired me a few months ago to put the N face of Alberta at the very top of my list of things to do.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_w0Eglj1tz4abxwaqo0QkdhLELlKu5vEIhbOTFAqdpS9tHsrZJrTNUiD-WjibPp_Ec6f9mluz7nu61SpBbk6sX_RAK1R3Zrw2BU9vjY8mnrRe5QIPpdfjGgV67tzq1TsIBVfrxOIRbpVo/s1600/alberta+n+face.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_w0Eglj1tz4abxwaqo0QkdhLELlKu5vEIhbOTFAqdpS9tHsrZJrTNUiD-WjibPp_Ec6f9mluz7nu61SpBbk6sX_RAK1R3Zrw2BU9vjY8mnrRe5QIPpdfjGgV67tzq1TsIBVfrxOIRbpVo/s1600/alberta+n+face.jpg" height="376" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From left to right; The N Face of the Twins Tower, Mount Columbia, N Face of Alberta. Photo: John Scurlock.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After the food poisoning episode i touched on in the last post, we watched the weather forecast, and when a two day window, with bad weather either side cropped up, we set our sites on Alberta once more. Although only really a marginal window for what we were wanting to attempt, it was our last chance so we had to take it. What we were wanting to attempt was the House-Anderson line on the N Face of Alberta. An incredible looking line, that was put up at the end of winter, 7 years ago by the amazingly driven American team of Steve House and Vince Anderson.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkQ_YdoaddWyLdM9XKjlzIw51FIBfutNFx4ZsM5rFCQ1YZVtiC24o9pgvEN_gIX4mRZRi09gaCWiM-KVEVApO2wtBra0ykaD-Hp2yNa6eovaNrtvN0YXLBpkYYBWYjpIaAYqxtJIgwd33/s1600/028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkQ_YdoaddWyLdM9XKjlzIw51FIBfutNFx4ZsM5rFCQ1YZVtiC24o9pgvEN_gIX4mRZRi09gaCWiM-KVEVApO2wtBra0ykaD-Hp2yNa6eovaNrtvN0YXLBpkYYBWYjpIaAYqxtJIgwd33/s1600/028.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick drying off after fording the Sunwapta again.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
With most of our gear stashed up there already, we made the walk in over Woolley Shoulder pretty fast and were chilling out in the sun for most of the afternoon before we left.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMCrOQUVfQ2ZU-KTpUICz3tzjLYmZTLGJgol4VZ8qO9oudBk-jZoxtFcZDuAFkJZSam1W6e4uzP3v5RQiIqpIl1OSgw3YF__zFp6S7X4kE5bxX3q2sRmSAT7CB14aF99nV81h6yZ6q5YO/s1600/035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMCrOQUVfQ2ZU-KTpUICz3tzjLYmZTLGJgol4VZ8qO9oudBk-jZoxtFcZDuAFkJZSam1W6e4uzP3v5RQiIqpIl1OSgw3YF__zFp6S7X4kE5bxX3q2sRmSAT7CB14aF99nV81h6yZ6q5YO/s1600/035.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drip harvesting off the roof.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibHztZJTLOU7ItydMt2nZWQ5cbetKokya1Qny-NmckqfYJhEnSay1_xM5dbVqwEJzQTxAXAPytYAn1FgDXAgCiUNr_e1GEc-BFU1Fcqwd1dkAi5kf1wlmeLN_Dxff1mgEKRrpzT0s3vRRK/s1600/042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibHztZJTLOU7ItydMt2nZWQ5cbetKokya1Qny-NmckqfYJhEnSay1_xM5dbVqwEJzQTxAXAPytYAn1FgDXAgCiUNr_e1GEc-BFU1Fcqwd1dkAi5kf1wlmeLN_Dxff1mgEKRrpzT0s3vRRK/s1600/042.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are many fascinating entries in the hut book.I love this one from Bill Bancroft and Scott Backes from sometime in the early 90's after climbing the N face on their third try, via the Lowe-Glidden.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The alarm went at 2.30a.m. and it all felt right. It's amazing how different you can feel before an intimidating route, sometimes you'll do anything for that alarm not to go off, sometimes you can't wait to get on with it.<br />
After forcing a bagel and a litre of water down my neck we got wrapped up and headed out in to the perfect crisp morning.<br />
<br />
To get to the bottom of the N face you have to make a series of raps to the lower glacier which feeds off the face. After walking for an hour we were nearly at the point where we down climbed to make the first abseil when i made a horrifying discovery. My belay plate was not on my harness. What the fuck! how is that possible? after quickly checking the contents of my bag it was obvious i didn't have it. My magic plate has been attached to my alpine harness for about 5 years, i never take it off, along with two slings a screwgate and a ropeman i never remove it for the precise reason that it would be catastrophic to not have it in a situation like this. After some brief thoughts of anger at myself and how cruel it all seemed, my mind immediately flicked on to thinking of alternative methods of belaying and abseiling.With about 5 raps to get to the route, multiple pitches of very technical climbing, and god knows how many raps to get off the mountain, my belay plate was going to be sorely missed. Nick wanted to bail immediately, the wind had got up and stood freezing ourselves while having a debate about how possible the route would be with one belay plate things had suddenly got desperate in just an hour from waking up. I did my best to persuade Nick and in the end he agreed to give it a shot, i owe him for giving it a chance, with roles reversed i'm not sure what i'd do. I still don't know where my belay plate is.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzXAf-g0iAp3WntFDkcPA0npLEtveASGR4rCukZFWWTCQeZxD2aSmKKf6nZqxnZRKCXqzILpFGQSk-Bh76-v8muRNYFUoWaeV1oimvBjfVTl84Vh7AtVV_ZKMwqD6Pv2s8243jEDur18FC/s1600/Alberta+blog+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzXAf-g0iAp3WntFDkcPA0npLEtveASGR4rCukZFWWTCQeZxD2aSmKKf6nZqxnZRKCXqzILpFGQSk-Bh76-v8muRNYFUoWaeV1oimvBjfVTl84Vh7AtVV_ZKMwqD6Pv2s8243jEDur18FC/s1600/Alberta+blog+2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
We made about 4 abseils, 2 of which were free hanging, plus some down climbing to make it to the lower glacier. We managed to leave as little gear as we could, conscious that we needed to conserve it for the climbing ahead. I now know we actually abbed off the wrong spur, and it would have been better to go 200 metres further north.<br />
<br />
With this over, we were now beneath one of the most inspiring faces i've ever stood beneath, and we could see it was absolutely plastered with whiteness, it looked awesome, so we strolled over to the schrund and got stuck in:<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOwml8lOlKNMlSk1mF2Ek2mSCjF-SBXthZNwC9DJRcWLWiTxHadcU6EilKMz7wCSHA2n_K7Xbe2sZzOe0yOYemVPZI48ETrdPGwCoM9b5oir5nAu9PAtu3ZM0c4b3Kwvrba_1x7zGJPyQ/s1600/Alberta+blog+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOwml8lOlKNMlSk1mF2Ek2mSCjF-SBXthZNwC9DJRcWLWiTxHadcU6EilKMz7wCSHA2n_K7Xbe2sZzOe0yOYemVPZI48ETrdPGwCoM9b5oir5nAu9PAtu3ZM0c4b3Kwvrba_1x7zGJPyQ/s1600/Alberta+blog+3.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first 60 metres of blue glacier ice was a painful start!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo3JWl8rT5sQ7a75PZrB4Mc2B3LuL3Qqijntq-1j7H70I4s7HOcIN05u-HBaTLzxMpolW8z27l2u6o9fwuMCh3mrlT6RQtnMJKKGft7hyphenhyphenpSt9wuwR0zsw9Mq6TZYQMWdPNIIk_N9aov5sB/s1600/P1010531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo3JWl8rT5sQ7a75PZrB4Mc2B3LuL3Qqijntq-1j7H70I4s7HOcIN05u-HBaTLzxMpolW8z27l2u6o9fwuMCh3mrlT6RQtnMJKKGft7hyphenhyphenpSt9wuwR0zsw9Mq6TZYQMWdPNIIk_N9aov5sB/s1600/P1010531.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But soon we found a beautiful ribbon of neve to blast up to the icefield above.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5NIDLfkJy7RayvZ9ye62hvjC18bDmC8m9kftTaL2Pp2IsDiKM93nz5n9BGBHlK64dyayo9EeY9C5sxHCsN6h6A7s9Jnod6xtOAx5HDOsMaLtBxZRzHks9RkTXcA7QZyse2-26bwhDpgHc/s1600/Mt+Albert+NF+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5NIDLfkJy7RayvZ9ye62hvjC18bDmC8m9kftTaL2Pp2IsDiKM93nz5n9BGBHlK64dyayo9EeY9C5sxHCsN6h6A7s9Jnod6xtOAx5HDOsMaLtBxZRzHks9RkTXcA7QZyse2-26bwhDpgHc/s1600/Mt+Albert+NF+2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself halfway up the icefield.<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The brilliant line of the House-Anderson goes up the ice streaks in the centre of the headwall, with hard mixed climbing above and beneath, this is why i love alpine climbing, the lines on big mountains are just so inspiring. The pitches up to the top ice blob had been repeated by Canadians Jason Kruk and Joshua Lavigne when they climbed their great looking new line on the left side of the headwall in 2012.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJFIwZyxJ0AjbuEA-oLhtqOT3gTS3IKYZiEqDjZZqJuZCEcg97RPqVDv4vIUEv0-rkD0cd-U7PIOxHHAe9JKJLrdZ7Yp6tir-HXM-p9deR-qlfPMLR5K6uk4qfHPsQrOhyXfzeowSHkZoj/s1600/P1010617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJFIwZyxJ0AjbuEA-oLhtqOT3gTS3IKYZiEqDjZZqJuZCEcg97RPqVDv4vIUEv0-rkD0cd-U7PIOxHHAe9JKJLrdZ7Yp6tir-HXM-p9deR-qlfPMLR5K6uk4qfHPsQrOhyXfzeowSHkZoj/s1600/P1010617.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself soloing through the yellow band. Scaring myself by finding the only pocket of nasty crud on the whole face!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOEQ1l_sUwbkdwuiTMXBu6xSZlJ3-J_gPPLWJ1XyUv24CcQUopuhx9_R7GetRtRH7Ntp_XGx7__LXmq8VOuDHp4l28zXkYDx-PRAVsRLboC-6nv5LljU9wVbzj7i6O4pKmjxX6xGPtlZ3F/s1600/056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOEQ1l_sUwbkdwuiTMXBu6xSZlJ3-J_gPPLWJ1XyUv24CcQUopuhx9_R7GetRtRH7Ntp_XGx7__LXmq8VOuDHp4l28zXkYDx-PRAVsRLboC-6nv5LljU9wVbzj7i6O4pKmjxX6xGPtlZ3F/s1600/056.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick starting the first of twelve intense pitches we climbed on the headwall. This pitch was given M7 be Steve House.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWeFA_axZ3WDAWyiAvdlkrvKVMjyrxdTexiJj9rGQ8fXSj7bOUWjPRhHtD7tvEjmVrv8T-IFVd_iPfwuRqsqmbS9AHzpRIvwh5feP9dHvMpBs9HJOGezXUZ61lvVQiv9z_b8JkrPMqfXN/s1600/Alberta+blog+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWeFA_axZ3WDAWyiAvdlkrvKVMjyrxdTexiJj9rGQ8fXSj7bOUWjPRhHtD7tvEjmVrv8T-IFVd_iPfwuRqsqmbS9AHzpRIvwh5feP9dHvMpBs9HJOGezXUZ61lvVQiv9z_b8JkrPMqfXN/s1600/Alberta+blog+5.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on the next pitch also given M7/who knows.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iedOgQBmWSE-MQD7ZSuVDCNMAH4lhJNetjnTodAKmIwJw3p5ghWxLjXYKKtaNWEHBY1BteHOeRUXUkylfIzinAPwUYPvq-CLI0NUjOXqG9rfGhKVUBHJ3YWSq2QNN40qHdOboDfDJPYK/s1600/Alberta+blog+10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iedOgQBmWSE-MQD7ZSuVDCNMAH4lhJNetjnTodAKmIwJw3p5ghWxLjXYKKtaNWEHBY1BteHOeRUXUkylfIzinAPwUYPvq-CLI0NUjOXqG9rfGhKVUBHJ3YWSq2QNN40qHdOboDfDJPYK/s1600/Alberta+blog+10.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was alarmed to come round a corner to see Nick in a sickeningly exposed hanging position on a belay mostly consisting of a rotting spike.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGyVRzPzPVndE1dVXJJshBHd9Oo6LTQweEmMsOL87rgEn3XW2d_-eGxktTQl5nunUOdnEZzBU1oX5c_ZKfFVIykpEehkvOnA4IUsZPajBUcCJLXiOmpYlCBfWCq7FPzgds1cMHKqL7ujW/s1600/P1010725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGyVRzPzPVndE1dVXJJshBHd9Oo6LTQweEmMsOL87rgEn3XW2d_-eGxktTQl5nunUOdnEZzBU1oX5c_ZKfFVIykpEehkvOnA4IUsZPajBUcCJLXiOmpYlCBfWCq7FPzgds1cMHKqL7ujW/s1600/P1010725.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A scrappy and annoying little aid section got us out of a potentially sticky situation. The "ice" above this roof was mostly useless snow, so after a couple of small falls when gear ripped, i managed to reach higher to better ice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKPnjYJhiLxgQz9SGaQnCg85UDQ9LJgcMagHBlmoY18A33XeZRvv6anil1eRg3xMr4ixOLDbPZcP5pYcNwBuYsyU0BY862tKA6TB4P77GyoO_FmK6dHm8efOzjtQAbSd_3_dX677Re0OKa/s1600/Alberta+blog+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKPnjYJhiLxgQz9SGaQnCg85UDQ9LJgcMagHBlmoY18A33XeZRvv6anil1eRg3xMr4ixOLDbPZcP5pYcNwBuYsyU0BY862tKA6TB4P77GyoO_FmK6dHm8efOzjtQAbSd_3_dX677Re0OKa/s1600/Alberta+blog+7.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dark, still going.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtVBzBjDoQVBUQjE3w6-hD9U3IQsbT8XvJX0qFmV8Dq45TuUXFYrD58Noy7xc2_W8EveKKEYNCTqEg93fZIyENpL4uP_8ArjYWM4VQdlhtpAxLNljM8YWXvMTP2ybVXO324ILPSw4zFft/s1600/074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtVBzBjDoQVBUQjE3w6-hD9U3IQsbT8XvJX0qFmV8Dq45TuUXFYrD58Noy7xc2_W8EveKKEYNCTqEg93fZIyENpL4uP_8ArjYWM4VQdlhtpAxLNljM8YWXvMTP2ybVXO324ILPSw4zFft/s1600/074.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And going</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We climbed the last few pitches of day one in the dark. A 50 metre pitch of bullet-hard WI5+with wild stemming on the right wall was exhausting. The pitch above was an incredible yet very worrying skin of vertical and overhanging ice. Nick put up a brilliant lead, and i'll leave it to him to tell the story of how he climbed it. I spent the whole pitch belaying with my bag on top of my head as i was directly in the firing line.<br />
A pitch later and we were relieved to find the legendary cave feature that Kruk and Lavigne found. Although we knew it was there, we didn't know for sure whether we'd be able to get in to it, or if it was iced over or blocked somehow. We were relieved to be able to enter it and have the most surreal bivy of our lives. Narrow to begin with, we crawled to where it opened out and it felt like entering a cathedral. A huge tube covered in rime ice penetrated in to the mountain. We weren't sure how deep to go, as we needed to have some indication of light outside, but it goes deep, really deep.<br />
We didn't take bivi kit, i had a duvet jacket and some insulated trousers, curled up on the ropes and had a few hours of shivering with occasional bowts of sleep.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFlpTDuROuqet5WeJz8vzCcM3xai4O7RKnat_boxnzH_oGBFBX6NoIDXxHSfHKBD7rF92TiTfL1YRC7B3eFkej-QSOz_sfLCSbCsvivyjESoBzCC-wVJAOUqj6BODJiV9ULh4b3xjVQuRF/s1600/Alberta+blog+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFlpTDuROuqet5WeJz8vzCcM3xai4O7RKnat_boxnzH_oGBFBX6NoIDXxHSfHKBD7rF92TiTfL1YRC7B3eFkej-QSOz_sfLCSbCsvivyjESoBzCC-wVJAOUqj6BODJiV9ULh4b3xjVQuRF/s1600/Alberta+blog+8.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The surreal confines of the cave.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEHC3P2qhJKekZjryDF4jA2FMyMERQIhzlHKyf4ExPKLlrHWCbYLyqswnQlpODv75s9UFQNxQ1FC-8m6X55mbONCPK3q39kVQQ7eHSjnZCbYnt9ltmVngub1kuN9NBMwwar22sElHYrGwb/s1600/Alberta+blog+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEHC3P2qhJKekZjryDF4jA2FMyMERQIhzlHKyf4ExPKLlrHWCbYLyqswnQlpODv75s9UFQNxQ1FC-8m6X55mbONCPK3q39kVQQ7eHSjnZCbYnt9ltmVngub1kuN9NBMwwar22sElHYrGwb/s1600/Alberta+blog+9.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First pitch of day 2. Airy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHL3V7dm7El04f_ERsUQfDspQfucQwuWFf3yFHCrFI7SF9W4-F8q5VjoYacQsjpO9qS5dzuNhmIayQaTcoUHElmsCiHgNnqFuw4LpbR1Tx8SaAtrtAf6UASvgrteTu7QczXUzNHNA0q5p_/s1600/081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHL3V7dm7El04f_ERsUQfDspQfucQwuWFf3yFHCrFI7SF9W4-F8q5VjoYacQsjpO9qS5dzuNhmIayQaTcoUHElmsCiHgNnqFuw4LpbR1Tx8SaAtrtAf6UASvgrteTu7QczXUzNHNA0q5p_/s1600/081.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick seconding the traverse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggZ1LA9QJaFBiVgrn9uueky7ZQ-R9hIwY0Rn0ZXZBXRiaZk2GbyzMes5TG9sLiOVk1l4l6vL0Mcecf3UtQLWFGYRlfu6aEor1xgZeTwdmqTsQHndat5MKsI0QThw63alqx2q7TwcltPwki/s1600/P1010836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggZ1LA9QJaFBiVgrn9uueky7ZQ-R9hIwY0Rn0ZXZBXRiaZk2GbyzMes5TG9sLiOVk1l4l6vL0Mcecf3UtQLWFGYRlfu6aEor1xgZeTwdmqTsQHndat5MKsI0QThw63alqx2q7TwcltPwki/s1600/P1010836.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seriously? about to commit to the wall above.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After leaving the cave, we climbed a few pitches then hit a kind of dead end. Nick went up and left, and belayed beneath a steep blank looking wall. I started up one weakness, which after a little excavation turned out to be a blank seam. I then traversed right and noticed a steep flake firing up the wall, it looked improbable but i got involved anyway. I battled my way up it with arms exploding for the final 10 metres. I think given the circumstances it was one of my hardest leads. I've done much easier VIII's in Scotland.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNRHen_R-uqeLzUWcKadwC6CxUU0jJ9qmwxXLoFdbT4Thz0LIqB3F60eiYZv0YXOQuW_Iojns0gLsRorcsoUoJ3EHEc47LDmcRdAvfVah0w7wj_QpMUaZ2gl8aeHLMKR6Vj0Pe_SgbQdL/s1600/Alberta+blog+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNRHen_R-uqeLzUWcKadwC6CxUU0jJ9qmwxXLoFdbT4Thz0LIqB3F60eiYZv0YXOQuW_Iojns0gLsRorcsoUoJ3EHEc47LDmcRdAvfVah0w7wj_QpMUaZ2gl8aeHLMKR6Vj0Pe_SgbQdL/s1600/Alberta+blog+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing the top of the headwall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Three continually tricky pitches later and we were off the headwall. 150 metres of easy angled rock and ice lay above us which we climbed in three long pitches to reach the south east ridge.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHksv0tYp8b9hRBF6i7BSxtA-0wP4lW8pKxFp-t43nZuj2gwDQqzY7xSKeeD-EMBULpkOoi3ZhsSh_9HLtVIY46oSIpByRe4ekwagCdZNLif29c_3NouQzMcIFzceoUGjUlGupUDoHw2u0/s1600/P1010879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHksv0tYp8b9hRBF6i7BSxtA-0wP4lW8pKxFp-t43nZuj2gwDQqzY7xSKeeD-EMBULpkOoi3ZhsSh_9HLtVIY46oSIpByRe4ekwagCdZNLif29c_3NouQzMcIFzceoUGjUlGupUDoHw2u0/s1600/P1010879.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bad weather arrives on the summit ridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By this point the weather had taken a real turn for the worse. It was windy and snowing, and as so often is the case with these things, we walked straight over the summit, no hug, no handshake not even an acknowledgement that we were on top. The alarm bells were starting to sound in my head, we needed to get as far down the mountain as we could before darkness and the weather worsened still.<br />
<br />
After down climbing the summit ridge, which seemed to take forever, we located the top of the Japanese route and started abseiling down the east face. The Japanese route, the easiest route up the mountain is probably the worst heap of choss i've ever seen. Extreme care was needed not to chop the ropes or worse with falling rock when we abbed. The night went on and on and once finished with the abseiling we started down climbing the easier angled lower sections. In the dark and snow it was very hard to navigate, and we were cliffed out everywhere we went. In the end we decided to call it and spent another night shivering in a fetal position. I got my head under a boulder and tried to find a happy place.<br />
After scrutinizing photos i'd taken a few days earlier of the mountain in good weather, i managed to work out where we were, and the next morning, with blocks of wood for feet, we stumbled out on to the glacier after the most intense bit of navigation i've ever done.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_olAHnQcoGkKkr1sMJmHPsQMZMChi4ZAjhljdX6jDKpe3tPBWvb48r7CpsVLOcQnaWJbLgySyEdm9GB90FsSrvPb_Upk6oXTSZFTIZefiuBuayhzxNxGzA9k8g9lKruezc9tete0C145/s1600/105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_olAHnQcoGkKkr1sMJmHPsQMZMChi4ZAjhljdX6jDKpe3tPBWvb48r7CpsVLOcQnaWJbLgySyEdm9GB90FsSrvPb_Upk6oXTSZFTIZefiuBuayhzxNxGzA9k8g9lKruezc9tete0C145/s1600/105.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hell hole i spent the second night in.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdpIGpD7Re-zw6Ngjs0wVE4RJ1DopaT84Y-mbmvS9qnTNd_70n6QngGL1pC-72m-h0QxO-ooJjs1QXSgNoRUvhcQdyLofKYrxH-RUeErL8tGNpqU_uG9cy2Eiltu_2epP7QOy9qvHgQ7I/s1600/112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdpIGpD7Re-zw6Ngjs0wVE4RJ1DopaT84Y-mbmvS9qnTNd_70n6QngGL1pC-72m-h0QxO-ooJjs1QXSgNoRUvhcQdyLofKYrxH-RUeErL8tGNpqU_uG9cy2Eiltu_2epP7QOy9qvHgQ7I/s1600/112.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning of day 3.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVGeLE38GljvliM30fACdFhOZCy4xeh7nr3GNpeALpKHMjqlcPDeoDyVXa4jBwxVuKlmrOK87p6O_z8WpRerPHzlGF9Hg0a4wwpxMktAw00Sw7Dt9qEHHc5kP7-kYK5QSA_gaHCLuppF1/s1600/127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVGeLE38GljvliM30fACdFhOZCy4xeh7nr3GNpeALpKHMjqlcPDeoDyVXa4jBwxVuKlmrOK87p6O_z8WpRerPHzlGF9Hg0a4wwpxMktAw00Sw7Dt9qEHHc5kP7-kYK5QSA_gaHCLuppF1/s1600/127.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A happy Bullock after finally getting off that mountain. That moment when you realise, its in the bag.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sitting by a fire with a beer in my hand, it seems to be sinking in. But i'd like to say that climbing that line in March like Steve and Vince did is seriously inspiring. They must be made of tough stuff.Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-55817665191700424622014-09-25T09:53:00.000-07:002014-09-25T10:03:10.153-07:00Canada Part 1Lush green valleys, braided rivers, coniferous forest stretching for eternity, blunt yet jagged limestone peaks, huge trucks, bears - I'm pleased to say that the Canadian Rockies are pretty much exactly how i'd always imagined them. They're also massive. Massive in every way, faces that look 400 metres are actually 1000, an approach that looks like a pleasant hour's stroll on the map ends up being a grueling 7 hours of bush/moraine whacking, its seriously wild, seriously cool.<br />
<br />
I'm here with Nick Bullock, with the idea of climbing some of the bigger alpine faces. After speaking to local experts such as Jon Walsh about conditions that are required for the north faces we decided that September/October would be the best time, the idea being that temperatures would have cooled off enough that the rockfall isn't too bad, yet not cold and snowy enough that the big stuff goes out of the window in place for the ice and mixed "cragging" that most people come here in the winter for. Although this is Nick's eighth trip to the Rockies, its his first at this time of the year with alpine stuff in mind, so the trip was a bit of an unknown for both of us.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vJm13yEWP3HEgihiWBDOxnTME5J7Z2x51btpRT5lCblp3W0f-iutUKhIefq5st28U-FFyTLTX0CbJfa4VCIi78yZ00DxnsHZib6lL8E2Ps7JcVzR5QKhU3zAHjADILmPO0Zps9514Gzf/s1600/015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vJm13yEWP3HEgihiWBDOxnTME5J7Z2x51btpRT5lCblp3W0f-iutUKhIefq5st28U-FFyTLTX0CbJfa4VCIi78yZ00DxnsHZib6lL8E2Ps7JcVzR5QKhU3zAHjADILmPO0Zps9514Gzf/s1600/015.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When we first arrived in Canmore there had been an unseasonably large dump of snow, which made things look very wintry!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After a couple of days some good weather showed up and we climbed the north face of Mount Diadem. It was great to get stuck in to the Rockies and sample the choss. It went something like this; leave the car at 4a.m. thrash, wade and grovel up a very vegetated valley for a few hours, scratch up endless moraine to the glacier beneath the face, cross the glacier, climb the face, traverse the summit, down-climb the s.face, and then walk out of a different valley we'd forgot to research for 5 hours back to the car.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ORNpnvJ_E95BB-lFPNb12UeaGEwLZDuokQo9U983hFnIFKLDPqTYa6gVzAtSmZNxtDDqYH1CVOVAZbWz5aCi8lrPYelh8EElpNRA8TnSvcZSrTnH8b42hi6XxXkB5XSuaQ64FFfLCF0g/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ORNpnvJ_E95BB-lFPNb12UeaGEwLZDuokQo9U983hFnIFKLDPqTYa6gVzAtSmZNxtDDqYH1CVOVAZbWz5aCi8lrPYelh8EElpNRA8TnSvcZSrTnH8b42hi6XxXkB5XSuaQ64FFfLCF0g/s1600/013.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick at our road bivi, the valley behind leads up to the glacier beneath Diadem.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ceUlhX5NyedXNg4cDFphtM01VqhnnzBsHB3zfZkg_fdHL9AK-xCJOOWtT5mDB_pB5k-rqCCBl4kt6nWCOdeJ5444GsJQhBSNXphdu5E7_lSYHxNvERlCx8fmCUv90J28-PXuced9_3U5/s1600/023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ceUlhX5NyedXNg4cDFphtM01VqhnnzBsHB3zfZkg_fdHL9AK-xCJOOWtT5mDB_pB5k-rqCCBl4kt6nWCOdeJ5444GsJQhBSNXphdu5E7_lSYHxNvERlCx8fmCUv90J28-PXuced9_3U5/s1600/023.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick fording a very cold Sunwapta river at 4 a.m.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy94h-plyms5Cc_miSqzkI2n3YquPBWngMrdMzU69Hzdq0pEefVXMvP3zIFaRssFeA_Ki8ETfY-0ymEF3iIbqCs8ULuNxWKrvjyk7uqjZYBSSfLMNrcUE4ActM1B2UWFnERUtn7VSykNGy/s1600/042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy94h-plyms5Cc_miSqzkI2n3YquPBWngMrdMzU69Hzdq0pEefVXMvP3zIFaRssFeA_Ki8ETfY-0ymEF3iIbqCs8ULuNxWKrvjyk7uqjZYBSSfLMNrcUE4ActM1B2UWFnERUtn7VSykNGy/s1600/042.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About 4 hours later the sun rose and we could see the N face, very cool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5FAEBflN8CY-TkL8v4GzOHFNUiHqk0bfzwnI8gebWwjaUUFlIyseMkTX41rbM9UEb9qQZ0nRQz1dDIwBH5bBtwu3QGgC474Z9nMV6LFxNH1u8yhxFHAn374XJy01rv9x4W3cb7y4fgSL/s1600/056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5FAEBflN8CY-TkL8v4GzOHFNUiHqk0bfzwnI8gebWwjaUUFlIyseMkTX41rbM9UEb9qQZ0nRQz1dDIwBH5bBtwu3QGgC474Z9nMV6LFxNH1u8yhxFHAn374XJy01rv9x4W3cb7y4fgSL/s1600/056.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick crossing the glacier beneath the face.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixNuuSrEvyLPY3d64Cv9gXIZLUtF_rfl8Fw7czP6yG9frytEKBftEYvt220_rFnQbFCPnWRdSpFuh9VnE-gmjeHUx9KPtyK0pqx9a4cWoaiTDAdFbHnXorUJWEBg82XVI9vbpMqgvwsXsL/s1600/063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixNuuSrEvyLPY3d64Cv9gXIZLUtF_rfl8Fw7czP6yG9frytEKBftEYvt220_rFnQbFCPnWRdSpFuh9VnE-gmjeHUx9KPtyK0pqx9a4cWoaiTDAdFbHnXorUJWEBg82XVI9vbpMqgvwsXsL/s1600/063.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dsi2JlGtPvgSvSuFC8cpCj3HmWKg0AmHQqkUIjz08YmDZVlYWbDJ42AGn1Ar8cRwP4drsJlUJ52m-N6GxhG4bI4hebt0V7sqjqtlLnbxhow26O1K-bR-UgXxKsz0nplHBaduMBzzq_DD/s1600/P1010129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dsi2JlGtPvgSvSuFC8cpCj3HmWKg0AmHQqkUIjz08YmDZVlYWbDJ42AGn1Ar8cRwP4drsJlUJ52m-N6GxhG4bI4hebt0V7sqjqtlLnbxhow26O1K-bR-UgXxKsz0nplHBaduMBzzq_DD/s1600/P1010129.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first roped pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhocSQJiU9Fmk8MkIhP-b8S8KM9V-Wij48tDUrNrycryPWdt_Yqwg3D72IAjtcvtay9gczqLoRr44gzH9LnsTHUmUimlLv_fi9JwEyd1gd3-3fHoDdxuagtVWTJErbQzC7tEeK5-Jnp6ptl/s1600/P1010149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhocSQJiU9Fmk8MkIhP-b8S8KM9V-Wij48tDUrNrycryPWdt_Yqwg3D72IAjtcvtay9gczqLoRr44gzH9LnsTHUmUimlLv_fi9JwEyd1gd3-3fHoDdxuagtVWTJErbQzC7tEeK5-Jnp6ptl/s1600/P1010149.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux was a really fun steep offwidth with some old ice in the back and not much for gear, here i am starting it and about to wish we'd brought a more extensive rack!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82nQt9RqOT3nmznpI3w3UC3e2wAjn6zZFRQJeEb_jYOg_zUGike82XX3aAEJ7XnjwEiDNOwYBft0bjfsddbncT75KC-yoy0ylteuVKpjOQKMfkKCCCNoge0Ob_rudbNZWoZaYsadZ_1K4/s1600/P1010258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82nQt9RqOT3nmznpI3w3UC3e2wAjn6zZFRQJeEb_jYOg_zUGike82XX3aAEJ7XnjwEiDNOwYBft0bjfsddbncT75KC-yoy0ylteuVKpjOQKMfkKCCCNoge0Ob_rudbNZWoZaYsadZ_1K4/s1600/P1010258.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on a fun pitch of thin snice higher up, the screw in the photo being the only worthwhile gear for the next 40ish metres.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/nick-full-res-final-pitch-tweak-for-blog.jpg" height="426" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick charging up some choss.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCphiAbyFoSHzeGONczoCWJjsfftQrrLQ3CYiOgOvosjkE1V90hN538OFpFNhyB4iv7a7cfrC9J0zY-kzTlFJl_p_xhxZEG-OdvHnFFoHlfnXBxZsS8imD3pN5g6kR-_ZBkmUWzimOe7L/s1600/P1010332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCphiAbyFoSHzeGONczoCWJjsfftQrrLQ3CYiOgOvosjkE1V90hN538OFpFNhyB4iv7a7cfrC9J0zY-kzTlFJl_p_xhxZEG-OdvHnFFoHlfnXBxZsS8imD3pN5g6kR-_ZBkmUWzimOe7L/s1600/P1010332.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Choss on the final tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQzd1doUrR93MhwSI80CW1MITOGtFJX4Zfj9sTDUSikuuXXaVYuxhDkolS6U_-J6-m_OrMoSryMPn3bBfV5JZqUgDZMTCPxZUz9ajHcMecJNSw10LFUqWwL1EXnB3H-KwHrLP0orXJeP5u/s1600/P1010347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQzd1doUrR93MhwSI80CW1MITOGtFJX4Zfj9sTDUSikuuXXaVYuxhDkolS6U_-J6-m_OrMoSryMPn3bBfV5JZqUgDZMTCPxZUz9ajHcMecJNSw10LFUqWwL1EXnB3H-KwHrLP0orXJeP5u/s1600/P1010347.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself with the North face of Alberta in the background, the dream tick for this trip.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Ggc8yYGIoszqW7tGio1w1_suw9WXkp9jgbolucu97nxiuKmWZaq2lqj2QIMVSSJ4aLbTTxJTpLdGZOpdSkCN5tBouqqRrwuA6-xH22zJc9MOCbkL3gmLrg4oHZcnl8XrZEakaKBu-JHp/s1600/P1010365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Ggc8yYGIoszqW7tGio1w1_suw9WXkp9jgbolucu97nxiuKmWZaq2lqj2QIMVSSJ4aLbTTxJTpLdGZOpdSkCN5tBouqqRrwuA6-xH22zJc9MOCbkL3gmLrg4oHZcnl8XrZEakaKBu-JHp/s1600/P1010365.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending in to the Canadian vastness.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It was great to have done such an awesome route in the first week, and it wetted our appetites for more.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbZRjUEFtxxI7S92sWTwDcnPMAFU-Y7WzNCvZG6dgSpjkDIRdLUTeoUAYuuK0k2-dSCVFTs8aUk2HHoMP9D7cbc3zQTFg51pPqOFqS-Aw8nzE-hHkHHmmCuvaJw6dNejZRY-ZWDEFxP-V/s1600/049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbZRjUEFtxxI7S92sWTwDcnPMAFU-Y7WzNCvZG6dgSpjkDIRdLUTeoUAYuuK0k2-dSCVFTs8aUk2HHoMP9D7cbc3zQTFg51pPqOFqS-Aw8nzE-hHkHHmmCuvaJw6dNejZRY-ZWDEFxP-V/s1600/049.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick clipping bolts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Down-time in Canmore at this time of year isn't so bad due to the amount of really great sport climbing there is. In Echo Canyon alone, which is right behind where we're staying there are some really inspiring crags, which disprove the theory that the Rockies only contain choss. Yesterday i did a brilliant 12c in Echo which would be three stars in Siurana or any other mecca of sport climbing. Its almost worth considering the Rockies as a sport climbing destination, although i can't believe i just said that...<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD3WpgE1fqhKu0BCMFafOVwVOHeXAIs6uJa1SzecBuBGYPBHC6_3aBffDrc-61t9CWVmz_eASr3DxAEOj-v888UPX-DcmfZgwyB5lRQ8R3tMUsDAo3uS60CNuP9_6lGLNVwkko44a3pMOi/s1600/echo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD3WpgE1fqhKu0BCMFafOVwVOHeXAIs6uJa1SzecBuBGYPBHC6_3aBffDrc-61t9CWVmz_eASr3DxAEOj-v888UPX-DcmfZgwyB5lRQ8R3tMUsDAo3uS60CNuP9_6lGLNVwkko44a3pMOi/s1600/echo.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible amount of rock in Echo canyon, on the wall behind Nick there are 50 metre 8a's!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After resting post Diadem, we drove back up the road towards Jasper and set about a bigger objective. Unfortunately we messed up a bit on tactics, and whilst bivvying in the car the night before leaving i had a traumatic night of vomiting, which i think was due to a dodgy chinese take-out from the supermarket the day before. Nevertheless we made the long walk in to the col beneath the NE ridge of Alberta, but after not eating for a couple of days and finding small hills a struggle to walk up, combined with our intended line being in somewhat different condition to what we'd anticipated, it was an easy decision to stash the gear and come back at the next possible opportunity.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HL3mRJgPefR4LkUsM4hSoyENRD22JO3qE5NNsMJ3aL4kscpOSR-dDQMBDilAle_a11dl9WsGPQO_irmJ_vqxXFocPScfKW6soA3GBBudvCmzQbzJ9_9o6R8DpsvB9YyMcFyXyXbRyxep/s1600/north+twin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HL3mRJgPefR4LkUsM4hSoyENRD22JO3qE5NNsMJ3aL4kscpOSR-dDQMBDilAle_a11dl9WsGPQO_irmJ_vqxXFocPScfKW6soA3GBBudvCmzQbzJ9_9o6R8DpsvB9YyMcFyXyXbRyxep/s1600/north+twin.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The north face of Twins Tower seen from wooley shoulder. The Columbia icefield stretches off its back and is a "Hydrological Apex", water flows from it to the Atlantic, Pacific, and Arctic.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTYrWnC1W29tp_ytstJNbKCxHlUc8oFMaTzhNdPQ7w-m6X67bfqlj6ioIyn2PU5KdR6-9Yfl7wsGJgQ6P3C3Z4P0wrT4XH16A4_I62tV0TlLggdbPjRW_AhKShkw3I8IRJ2hpn2EqxCJG/s1600/hut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTYrWnC1W29tp_ytstJNbKCxHlUc8oFMaTzhNdPQ7w-m6X67bfqlj6ioIyn2PU5KdR6-9Yfl7wsGJgQ6P3C3Z4P0wrT4XH16A4_I62tV0TlLggdbPjRW_AhKShkw3I8IRJ2hpn2EqxCJG/s1600/hut.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lloyd Mackay hut, with the East face of Alberta behind. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I've been seriously inspired by the Rockies so far, they're wild, infinitely more "real deal" than anything that the European Alps can offer, and feel more on par with some of the bigger places i've been for size, gnarl and as i say, "realness".<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-52609602343456911802014-09-08T03:33:00.002-07:002014-09-08T03:33:38.866-07:00Summer<br />
The last few months have been a good mix of work and play. I really do love North Wales, there surely can't be a better place to live as a trad climber.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0X78fMnxz9JuBYsYAwFJsx6cUyCzdqro1uH-lVe_0YWJNL3g-ri0bSkGMQFUsB_Vtl0cN53u7z0zv9Ptsl6oHZ5MYzd7vqs_VnF2HkaVaR_KbgQGE_L5KoESvj9livAh3gay3WE8GLN_/s1600/10150749_10152344168235250_7090778320209983970_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0X78fMnxz9JuBYsYAwFJsx6cUyCzdqro1uH-lVe_0YWJNL3g-ri0bSkGMQFUsB_Vtl0cN53u7z0zv9Ptsl6oHZ5MYzd7vqs_VnF2HkaVaR_KbgQGE_L5KoESvj9livAh3gay3WE8GLN_/s1600/10150749_10152344168235250_7090778320209983970_n.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You really can't beat an after-work session in the pass. The mega classic King-Wad. Photo: Lee Roberts.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZ81yATeWAWTdTPywSZFtZUBG1s-38bo_3-ygHOyWGqYVRI5IrLip84q29DS382DdwL3BT7HewVQj8NqXJz52Z6B-TQpWkhm7rfsA5XNcB0qViBRSjXepx_ze-45pDls_jy9DxlsTKC7H/s1600/10580154_10152574035096011_3150188357639018325_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZ81yATeWAWTdTPywSZFtZUBG1s-38bo_3-ygHOyWGqYVRI5IrLip84q29DS382DdwL3BT7HewVQj8NqXJz52Z6B-TQpWkhm7rfsA5XNcB0qViBRSjXepx_ze-45pDls_jy9DxlsTKC7H/s1600/10580154_10152574035096011_3150188357639018325_n.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The good old Cromlech. I think i know every hold on these two walls now. Here Sion is on Left Wall, and i'm linking up Precious, Right Wall and Lord of The Flies to result in an action packed pitch of awesomeness.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfWj5eKOj_1zNT2nekyIBf91JgIpUwHKhXgrB5Bzr3rnxvTz1XBJGnlIHhcgaNNMaZUNq9kEhKZZmZCVNd6l1d65fJEGOBpxa5IkO-9yVSrg5AsAGJDsHkgQnnj1vzGvFmROqU8EdyA35/s1600/72099_10152203547087732_5503946347843477159_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfWj5eKOj_1zNT2nekyIBf91JgIpUwHKhXgrB5Bzr3rnxvTz1XBJGnlIHhcgaNNMaZUNq9kEhKZZmZCVNd6l1d65fJEGOBpxa5IkO-9yVSrg5AsAGJDsHkgQnnj1vzGvFmROqU8EdyA35/s1600/72099_10152203547087732_5503946347843477159_n.jpg" height="640" width="480" /> </a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rust Never Sleeps, a nerve wracking E6 on the Lleyn Peninsular. Photo: Nick Bullock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1EB1vUVIppnSUaMzh-sQV2Lc5fzLr1kEW8F-xfIbZ91W9Pl6SJKqbBddoLnew3GktZpS4CU15NNKEBmz5Y14Em38J6wnSYtyOZTlEztKsWr0RjYdZTOUGKuSNHJuinuXoucHwfG9zs0pj/s1600/will.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1EB1vUVIppnSUaMzh-sQV2Lc5fzLr1kEW8F-xfIbZ91W9Pl6SJKqbBddoLnew3GktZpS4CU15NNKEBmz5Y14Em38J6wnSYtyOZTlEztKsWr0RjYdZTOUGKuSNHJuinuXoucHwfG9zs0pj/s1600/will.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box of Blood E7, on Craig Doris . More of a flash than an on sight as i'd belayed Nick on it, but still pretty terrifying.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWtiYUWswZJQBlahIGJhbCuY0rZBHwVGnWx6TXei49sF5ZgpGE516x9xEYRTokWYAAegL_XC2C-xVwX875KwumCf8GRnDwgtG4Kcto-9eAtTI_7nSB1flmSYgG7i6o7DMcUPIu1b4o0so/s1600/10408667_10201613537454899_993572514993333561_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWtiYUWswZJQBlahIGJhbCuY0rZBHwVGnWx6TXei49sF5ZgpGE516x9xEYRTokWYAAegL_XC2C-xVwX875KwumCf8GRnDwgtG4Kcto-9eAtTI_7nSB1flmSYgG7i6o7DMcUPIu1b4o0so/s1600/10408667_10201613537454899_993572514993333561_n.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another paradisaical trip to Pabbay and Mingulay came and went. It wasn't all frisby and fishing, we did some climbing too, and i managed a couple of E6's i hadn't got round to last time. But really, this photo says it all.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgasOO2-JwUhDEfcIGXrEevJPsZFPuXcoIlpu4ZyhVE5UPS9Jx26QoPGbJVtUX29viVG5X7ij45ZCCEgZ4VtnnRKNcRSrFr-7qwMtIlMubUdham3t91B5FxLbsHu9f2gKuqQMW-NCdhCU4S/s1600/028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgasOO2-JwUhDEfcIGXrEevJPsZFPuXcoIlpu4ZyhVE5UPS9Jx26QoPGbJVtUX29viVG5X7ij45ZCCEgZ4VtnnRKNcRSrFr-7qwMtIlMubUdham3t91B5FxLbsHu9f2gKuqQMW-NCdhCU4S/s1600/028.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
If i was to talk about all the amazing routes this summer i wouldn't do them justice, and also, i would have found another method of avoiding packing all of the above in to two 23 kg loads. Off to the Canadian Rockies on Tuesday, lets hope it gets cold over there soon!<br />
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-46838374438323681152014-02-20T09:37:00.002-08:002014-02-20T09:37:43.501-08:00NorwayI've just returned from a great week guiding ice routes in Aurlandsdalen Norway. I was working on a course ran by Martin Moran based from the idyllic sleepy village of Aurland. Aurlandsdalen is the lesser known brother of Hemesdal and Laerdal, two more established ice climbing areas in Western Norway. Martin has been guiding in this area for almost 10 years, and has had the place more or less to himself for that time. Before heading out i'd attempted to wrap my head around the lie of the land and route options by reading Martin's pdf guide he's written to the area (and to my knowledge the only documented info), but in the end i gave up as the vastness of the place became apparent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFZH0SvujonJ2J5624nSceUdZ0COzkXREl-stzYwW-IhoUvriUzlogA03nkd5-jTPq_Rj4rCCFm_qSF21Ml4yk3sQHt2H-e5PVq80smaCByM49InJtFnH2_MKDRLH9Einpbj9y92XSdflL/s1600/015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFZH0SvujonJ2J5624nSceUdZ0COzkXREl-stzYwW-IhoUvriUzlogA03nkd5-jTPq_Rj4rCCFm_qSF21Ml4yk3sQHt2H-e5PVq80smaCByM49InJtFnH2_MKDRLH9Einpbj9y92XSdflL/s1600/015.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our pad.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
It's really intimidating going to a new area completely on sight in a guiding role. Not having a library of routes and options in one's head, or knowing the recent snow pack or ice history makes everything feel very "big" when you have two inexperienced yet eager clients in tow. Fortunately, as is often the case, there was nothing to worry about and the general trend for the week was to drive up a valley staring up at huge streaks of ice in wonder, settle on an appropriate one for the day, beat a track up to the base and climb it. Only once in the whole week did i know what route i was climbing, in fact for all we knew we were the first! - a great adventurous way of doing things. I'm sure that this combined with the fact that we didn't see any other climbers all week is why Martin loves to come back every year.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjICQB-kOzd5fRroK6kJ3OC7NMHMgTCYysKYjGJI9nwvGRW9dKFOpktKq-FpRhDGEQkdSNAqjbpO99vdwYH7XPWW5vsi6Gn0aGwapdsTZoW-_xtO1W4B674gFHUA86LuHJBF6YxYpUsnMSq/s1600/004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjICQB-kOzd5fRroK6kJ3OC7NMHMgTCYysKYjGJI9nwvGRW9dKFOpktKq-FpRhDGEQkdSNAqjbpO99vdwYH7XPWW5vsi6Gn0aGwapdsTZoW-_xtO1W4B674gFHUA86LuHJBF6YxYpUsnMSq/s1600/004.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raymond, Dawn and myself climbed the left hand pillars and continuation above on day two.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI5Y3WkhzZ-WFW4TDZk6O9HyZOvQAJdmun4nUgNLh-DgnN202q_zfpGGOgAWwMGKvbuxryxY9i8n6GxvVVAVqhc5NPVM8UX3djlQ5HUW8nWFM2Ft9EyCggEng7XxlPzZPBBMavkFPGGSh/s1600/005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI5Y3WkhzZ-WFW4TDZk6O9HyZOvQAJdmun4nUgNLh-DgnN202q_zfpGGOgAWwMGKvbuxryxY9i8n6GxvVVAVqhc5NPVM8UX3djlQ5HUW8nWFM2Ft9EyCggEng7XxlPzZPBBMavkFPGGSh/s1600/005.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kenny, John and Dan on the left hand line.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I was lucky enough to be partnered with Dawn and Raymond, who were super strong and keen, allowing us to barely climb anything easier than WI5 all week.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEDl2MRLXrXwhhzbJ4OkRj8naz4_KbwpucGK7doCkFt3y8nZZyG0uGomzHAL325MWarBay-irNaLrulNhpSw7Lkk1znGjPdtSid64djmDwgjFXd__nqVqmOs4muTnBHqiwjJHN2sq5eGE/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEDl2MRLXrXwhhzbJ4OkRj8naz4_KbwpucGK7doCkFt3y8nZZyG0uGomzHAL325MWarBay-irNaLrulNhpSw7Lkk1znGjPdtSid64djmDwgjFXd__nqVqmOs4muTnBHqiwjJHN2sq5eGE/s1600/photo+2.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn seconding what we later found out to be "The Stonner" WI5.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0OOhHPSc2a1rq-HldujittgqCpgF5L_RSFSdc8Q64pJep_paUHt7RU2BI_Stqj8el0nfXnfJHl5QKV7WEkLdyFY09Joy18ZsWK8BK7vKb0_VBZ-ly3614O3BqtUYtLjlkltCO93si40f/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0OOhHPSc2a1rq-HldujittgqCpgF5L_RSFSdc8Q64pJep_paUHt7RU2BI_Stqj8el0nfXnfJHl5QKV7WEkLdyFY09Joy18ZsWK8BK7vKb0_VBZ-ly3614O3BqtUYtLjlkltCO93si40f/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Back in Scotland now, and after two days of light winds, we once again have 70mph south westerlies, and MWIS is back to using words such as "buffeting effect" "torturous" and "gael force" to describe the next week. Yipee.Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-81042995397037969422014-02-02T13:16:00.000-08:002014-02-02T13:26:23.344-08:00A Good WeekLast week I was hosting on the BMC winter international meet. The international meet is a week of none-stop climbing, when you take a foreign guest out to show them just how good Scotland can be. It was a really fun week with a real buzz and excited atmosphere, with everyone's ideas and motivation bouncing off each other resulting in a frenzy of action.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><u>Day 1</u></b></div>
<div>
<b><u><br /></u></b></div>
<div>
With apocalyptic-like weather forecast for the first day of the week, there were very few decent options for easing in to it. My Canadian partner Michelle Kadatz was extremely jet-lagged after only arriving late the evening before, so a late start was in order. Unfortunately, Michelle had ate something dodgy in the airport so had been up all night with food poisoning. We managed to get to the bottom of our intended route in the norries, despite the 80mph winds, but in the end we had to retire back to the lodge, so that Michelle could be nearer a toilet and a bed!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><u>Day 2</u></b></div>
<div>
<b><u><br /></u></b></div>
<div>
10 of us piled in to a mini bus at 5a.m. and headed for Glencoe. We climbed Nick and Guy's line "Slenderhead" VIII 8. This was the second ascent, and Michelle's first route in Scotland, she was obviously feeling a lot better as she followed the three pitches with style perfected on the flat edges and shallow hooks of Canadian limestone.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKiE7BnmQIENdmulLschLjL3f3mMhHQvwJ_JEz_b3pIhRcgs8WilaIHwby8SkdTae21E27bTl9bsym-Vv5UUdWyhoD8CwdLbKhCFOEzo6SEXh8X1zF_7XksHZ8JfYj-Nz7zG-N439iY5K/s1600/slenderhead-1+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKiE7BnmQIENdmulLschLjL3f3mMhHQvwJ_JEz_b3pIhRcgs8WilaIHwby8SkdTae21E27bTl9bsym-Vv5UUdWyhoD8CwdLbKhCFOEzo6SEXh8X1zF_7XksHZ8JfYj-Nz7zG-N439iY5K/s1600/slenderhead-1+(1).jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnIXtWjCNurrRthCfRzMwvEw5nuWBjwgahwLlODJLElSENfuvYbyDFjMZC0EJeMPTZeesn72dJ6E3zUpxCfuGieqLLSWRIIbDwzUcOvKVMvecJDQ5p417mW4LT0T7g2FuTLM2EYU7eWvYy/s1600/004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnIXtWjCNurrRthCfRzMwvEw5nuWBjwgahwLlODJLElSENfuvYbyDFjMZC0EJeMPTZeesn72dJ6E3zUpxCfuGieqLLSWRIIbDwzUcOvKVMvecJDQ5p417mW4LT0T7g2FuTLM2EYU7eWvYy/s1600/004.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half way up the very bold first pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<b><u>Day 3</u></b></div>
<div>
<b><u><br /></u></b></div>
<div>
A less than perfect, but temptingly ok forecast lured us to Beinn Eighe on Wednesday. After a very late start in ferocious winds we battled over the summit ridge and made the two committing abseils down "Blood Sweat and Frozen Tears". From watching the conditions over the last couple of months i had a sneaking suspicion that the legendary and very rarely repeated Mick Fowler route "West Central Gully" may be in good condition. This mysterious route sports a 5 metre roof section on its amazingly steep crux pitch. Fowler famously attached his rucsac straps to his axe leashes so he could rest when making the first ascent. And other such comments such as "the grade is a guess, the second ascencionists refused to comment" certainly ad to to the mystique.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0heQthVXGvvKd4Z0LTrs082mMORy89Vz22xPOI2IfpXNNNaZoGQow8RsmJrIk_FzCk2ciqav9ZnyIkzh5tI2vhxCmW7O3pFKnJvd9_oiYIxn_J77FOZyogljcUmSdnXkjDilnFjymJkt2/s1600/017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0heQthVXGvvKd4Z0LTrs082mMORy89Vz22xPOI2IfpXNNNaZoGQow8RsmJrIk_FzCk2ciqav9ZnyIkzh5tI2vhxCmW7O3pFKnJvd9_oiYIxn_J77FOZyogljcUmSdnXkjDilnFjymJkt2/s1600/017.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lower part of the crux pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaZY01NMStJWajauNYw5qwQtnLgBIfv4XclMqVQvXyMIlmJv3TuERkdwzYtCwmkZVsLu9uOQm9X4KdHyaWdPxpXboxCPrw_SlNUcKmAh7AUx_ENqEo93Zl06wI4Wg9s3wHfNgJBdhUAWG/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaZY01NMStJWajauNYw5qwQtnLgBIfv4XclMqVQvXyMIlmJv3TuERkdwzYtCwmkZVsLu9uOQm9X4KdHyaWdPxpXboxCPrw_SlNUcKmAh7AUx_ENqEo93Zl06wI4Wg9s3wHfNgJBdhUAWG/s1600/024.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teetering.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3zGs-fanoPYn7Cd3e6i9bYCMhpMO_rYvFuCom5Xm_dEekr2jftU4aFWaVizLSuTTVu15Ev-sKk7rgkxiYbPQxGJm4tkdOH38gelesTnIxdaVdJ_4lBVEJVJYIMd6O2lOivEtz4CoCZ_8-/s1600/027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3zGs-fanoPYn7Cd3e6i9bYCMhpMO_rYvFuCom5Xm_dEekr2jftU4aFWaVizLSuTTVu15Ev-sKk7rgkxiYbPQxGJm4tkdOH38gelesTnIxdaVdJ_4lBVEJVJYIMd6O2lOivEtz4CoCZ_8-/s1600/027.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep and 3D.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
The route was wild, with 3 metre long icicles hanging from the roof, not thick enough for body weight, Michelle sheltered under a roof at her belay while i sculpted them in to a climbable state. At the belay after the crux pitch i was buzzing, what a route, seriously special.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><u>Day 4</u></b></div>
<div>
<b><u><br /></u></b></div>
<div>
For the second part of the week i was to climb with my Swedish Friend Olov Isaksson. I've known Olov for several years, but we'd somehow never managed to climb together.</div>
<div>
We headed back to Beinn Eighe and its "Far East Wall". This steep, super compact wall is an amazing place, and within seconds of arriving at the base we spotted an awesome looking unclimbed roof crack and corner system that we simply had to have a go at. Surprisingly, the line went with little drama in three pitches, with the crux at about VII or VIII 9 which Olov made a great lead of.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifs57_z97owEAA68HXjwCmaVLrSZiFhn89MxrQA6YQqJZAXqaQD3EjfAwuVaXP8VdiDsPEMwP1a8SwWjZOq5Mcg7RVnAwk1IF-45_3alIZUGJq8kyTXJ7DBVjUKTL-WzLDn4Y5PHEmsy6f/s1600/IMG_2832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifs57_z97owEAA68HXjwCmaVLrSZiFhn89MxrQA6YQqJZAXqaQD3EjfAwuVaXP8VdiDsPEMwP1a8SwWjZOq5Mcg7RVnAwk1IF-45_3alIZUGJq8kyTXJ7DBVjUKTL-WzLDn4Y5PHEmsy6f/s1600/IMG_2832.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep start to pitch 2.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd1DgLIPoYva1nnCpP5BK7d2UnAtteHgVo9zW8MT8l8YFsKYlSo3YyDmYACo13oU7Ta71sXOIXUzMTU9o5W-Vv1hzUaA1OWwHoOU0-Hy75USMkUVS0PbbhsDPrUVSN9a8GVp4A2GQRaMpP/s1600/IMG_2837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd1DgLIPoYva1nnCpP5BK7d2UnAtteHgVo9zW8MT8l8YFsKYlSo3YyDmYACo13oU7Ta71sXOIXUzMTU9o5W-Vv1hzUaA1OWwHoOU0-Hy75USMkUVS0PbbhsDPrUVSN9a8GVp4A2GQRaMpP/s1600/IMG_2837.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Crux.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSKmEjq-Cv6F8fnWMVq4tfWuNK624Ea6lovq4cdr8sfkJRNcu5PkvjNIiOzN2twJxrjxAaYtYs0YkYoIJU-gGOTmJIHu5_qloqDwrOPiIKDud_Ut58rzsafYBC2eEQRb0aAgNNKTr9Ldl/s1600/IMG_2840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSKmEjq-Cv6F8fnWMVq4tfWuNK624Ea6lovq4cdr8sfkJRNcu5PkvjNIiOzN2twJxrjxAaYtYs0YkYoIJU-gGOTmJIHu5_qloqDwrOPiIKDud_Ut58rzsafYBC2eEQRb0aAgNNKTr9Ldl/s1600/IMG_2840.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself inside the last pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkwCIFDfo_Tdv0nEXn3sbTuLyImdrFJx-pnfdgdCkLDN1A-tIPpyDUca4tPQoSvP7tOB5VWV2TU7u4tXD8p-6zRO9Y15Q9t2oVYkDMDUptyaQa6MvpHKTKi6ZtQiRByI6ruIIXIw-HZNo/s1600/IMG_2861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkwCIFDfo_Tdv0nEXn3sbTuLyImdrFJx-pnfdgdCkLDN1A-tIPpyDUca4tPQoSvP7tOB5VWV2TU7u4tXD8p-6zRO9Y15Q9t2oVYkDMDUptyaQa6MvpHKTKi6ZtQiRByI6ruIIXIw-HZNo/s1600/IMG_2861.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The top bulge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Sadly our good friend Magnus Kastengren, who had introduced me to Olov 4 years ago, died in the mountains back in November. We talked a lot about Magnus that day on Beinn Eighe and decided to name the route "Crazy Eyes", which will make sense for those of you who were lucky enough to have met Magnus.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We finished by soloing West Buttress. It was one of those really great days.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><u>Day 5</u></b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Rest day. The weather was worse than grim, and we discovered the sauna in Glenmore Lodge.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><u>Day 6</u></b></div>
<div>
<b><u><br /></u></b></div>
<div>
The forecast for Saturday wasn't great, but we hoped that MWIS was being pessimistic and headed over to Beinn Bhan with Andy and Peter. On arriving at about 6.30 a.m. it was chucking down rain and just didn't seem hopeful for getting something big done. We all went to sleep in the car and woke up an hour or so later to considerably improved skies. Game on!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: start;">
Beinn Bhan is a seriously cool place, and the Giant's wall is probably one of the most impressive cliffs in Scotland. It was late to be starting up such a route, but after a slight route-finding error on the first pitch, Olov and myself found ourselves committed to "The Godfather", a route i'd wanted to climb since i was about 10. </div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4y0rRLxuSNoXBY9cqmbla6hM5yDPXQNLJI7oDJVqyVXSXYrYFDkrOcJ9r5vMVssVG3HUMSCIdQn1AreH6HQpuVd0vgsTH8HhGGMRNxh7YOutqkCfTn2cEKPQpMtk3iRcCy4BzUbXvoMgH/s1600/IMG_2881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4y0rRLxuSNoXBY9cqmbla6hM5yDPXQNLJI7oDJVqyVXSXYrYFDkrOcJ9r5vMVssVG3HUMSCIdQn1AreH6HQpuVd0vgsTH8HhGGMRNxh7YOutqkCfTn2cEKPQpMtk3iRcCy4BzUbXvoMgH/s1600/IMG_2881.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Giants Wall comes in to view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7vcgThWwCngnycH7m2a9sWPOIoaOOjxwc2E3AP9RYUqnWGYw075c9V2D59K0yp3iQcx2dSH6mJ2QibIw7kklzk42ZZwAE7u1fV9m3mQu0pAFXmuWCTUZRj-jgN0zh3M3P4pZdL31dDEHR/s1600/IMG_2893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7vcgThWwCngnycH7m2a9sWPOIoaOOjxwc2E3AP9RYUqnWGYw075c9V2D59K0yp3iQcx2dSH6mJ2QibIw7kklzk42ZZwAE7u1fV9m3mQu0pAFXmuWCTUZRj-jgN0zh3M3P4pZdL31dDEHR/s1600/IMG_2893.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seconding the 5th pitch. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaz55GKao4fFqyoXDNprw0bcyNNPSuWtMs9YsHfBQ1pALVCKkS2sM_kGZprn7-tibyWvPi4L2fDFBC56ffcxCxdtSkdoey-y7pLDCKFioNePLydk2XetOzzGLTFLULLw4lQwd1DDkeQIa1/s1600/011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaz55GKao4fFqyoXDNprw0bcyNNPSuWtMs9YsHfBQ1pALVCKkS2sM_kGZprn7-tibyWvPi4L2fDFBC56ffcxCxdtSkdoey-y7pLDCKFioNePLydk2XetOzzGLTFLULLw4lQwd1DDkeQIa1/s1600/011.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olov charging in less than ideal weather.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXilqrgcqg02LCat5i_dDNnjnoqjfG0MM-Ud_AvAKpaKRDHf7JZzu3nu1r3_p9bIzarqHVzTl36uXEwFm7wduIXiT3kzZ1URUSmRWCgT3-sZ3peBxb56Kbcu9HIk4BsSVFu39iuv267o7h/s1600/IMG_2905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXilqrgcqg02LCat5i_dDNnjnoqjfG0MM-Ud_AvAKpaKRDHf7JZzu3nu1r3_p9bIzarqHVzTl36uXEwFm7wduIXiT3kzZ1URUSmRWCgT3-sZ3peBxb56Kbcu9HIk4BsSVFu39iuv267o7h/s1600/IMG_2905.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The top corner.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
It went like a dream, and six hours after starting we'd topped out and were halfway back to the car before we needed our head torches.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It was a really good week, many thanks to the BMC for having me along, and Michelle and Olov for being great partners.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-19751938262489046382014-01-19T15:20:00.002-08:002014-01-19T15:20:56.410-08:00The Cure and The TempestThe first 10 days of 2014 saw me feeling completely wiped out by a chest infection. I should have known better....after feeling the oncoming illness a few days before christmas i didn't help matters by going a bit nocturnal over the festive period and spending too much time in pubs back home, but hey, some things you just have to do.<br />
<br />
After a course of Antibiotics and eating a full clove of garlic every day for a week (my mate Ben told me it would work, and he went to university), i was starting to feel back to normal in time for a lull in the horrendous winds.<br />
The week before, myself and Greg had tried something hard and new on the Dubh Loch. Although we didn't get very far, the amount of ice about had inspired us to come back asap.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3XfF4IUyhmxuE1Hqbi20TKJieILu0dZN4Zh8pA8UQWQcZdmfKjzHRrdOGgpETx5c8IqLSSSG-LfDxlgER8QZFH7FRqPNvzDrnefq7XBC-C1VK2k_5AGe2Ss6m4XCdZzHWZ0pbNAcmHw2/s1600/1559712_10202877842685933_919411397_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3XfF4IUyhmxuE1Hqbi20TKJieILu0dZN4Zh8pA8UQWQcZdmfKjzHRrdOGgpETx5c8IqLSSSG-LfDxlgER8QZFH7FRqPNvzDrnefq7XBC-C1VK2k_5AGe2Ss6m4XCdZzHWZ0pbNAcmHw2/s1600/1559712_10202877842685933_919411397_n.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Asap turned out to be a week later, when on Saturday, Guy Robertson, Greg, Nick Bullock and myself returned on the day that was to be a new-routing extravaganza.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
At the bottom of Broad Terrace Wall that morning there was a great atmosphere, with most of the protagonists of Dubh Loch climbing over the last 30 years present, craning their necks and marveling at the sheets of thin ice traipsing down the crag.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaPyZAFlx8DMcsP1yV9tgrk2Bh6WpDDCaFCrjSz9gPlBEJnPTm0WVl_m8geiPyAJol6HWhubuQ9AYi3NlcDpQdviJLlEijr7nq8ryvanGAFk3FH2R4wrgW6p3xc1oqKZvoFZE5cIkQtr9/s1600/CDL4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaPyZAFlx8DMcsP1yV9tgrk2Bh6WpDDCaFCrjSz9gPlBEJnPTm0WVl_m8geiPyAJol6HWhubuQ9AYi3NlcDpQdviJLlEijr7nq8ryvanGAFk3FH2R4wrgW6p3xc1oqKZvoFZE5cIkQtr9/s1600/CDL4.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having a look.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
With Guy and Greg already involved in the first pitch of the best new line to go on this part of the face (what would become "Defence of the Realm"), Nick and myself started trying to spie an aesthetic line up the blank looking wall to their right. I absolutely love this part of climbing a new route, its an opportunity to be creative. Ideally we wanted it to be hard enough that we would have to fight a little, not so hard that we'd run in to a dead end, and follow an aesthetic, strong line packed with quality climbing.<br />
<br />
I started up a steep corner line with some tricky pulls to a good rest. From here, a curtain of ice was three metres to my right. It was going to be a super thin bit of climbing off a very small boss of slopey granite with no feet holds to reach a crack and then the ice. After getting some bomber gear at my head height, i committed to the move, matching on a hook that could pop at any second. Luckily it stuck just long enough for me to teeter on to the good ice.<br />
After getting a bomber belay another 20 metres higher, and with the technical crux of the route out of the way, i brought Nick up the pitch, and handed the lead over to him. Nick then took us to the top in two brilliant pitches of ice, thin places, steep and fat in others. It really is a pleasure to watch Nick on this kind of ground, i think you'd be hard stretched to find someone more at home on thin ice.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZCoKCPa29mPIsAMzX5lc3MRAGcmbyrcHNFJW8t4B-_89ZItN1yI8EoVlivUHRztWN-Sx0-OUMKJuATWA7s93f-zRXp9TrCfxcPD46CG7aHxPAwrjfhl4i0dxuXDRZd5KVhzwLIpa6RL_/s1600/CDL5+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZCoKCPa29mPIsAMzX5lc3MRAGcmbyrcHNFJW8t4B-_89ZItN1yI8EoVlivUHRztWN-Sx0-OUMKJuATWA7s93f-zRXp9TrCfxcPD46CG7aHxPAwrjfhl4i0dxuXDRZd5KVhzwLIpa6RL_/s1600/CDL5+(1).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just after the crux sequence.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1bweZ9C69WM2fxTVnyK58rD7jk3fjFkFuNWjNwJhtL3e4VfLMwXyKMFDdCnwydJdsz_-8WtNxfGYhUP_paUDG7kTjCwjeAeXucRjQDbYLPwL-ZKAhB0ZBZ782DlZECNvCi6cI-zN-HMQ/s1600/CDL6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1bweZ9C69WM2fxTVnyK58rD7jk3fjFkFuNWjNwJhtL3e4VfLMwXyKMFDdCnwydJdsz_-8WtNxfGYhUP_paUDG7kTjCwjeAeXucRjQDbYLPwL-ZKAhB0ZBZ782DlZECNvCi6cI-zN-HMQ/s1600/CDL6.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick doing his thing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2eJXJy4BtqZhSlzmVBRxuegFQTe-saDM-kZBReT-k6L9YXQFZ-VXr9K-807zKBjcr4No3HQOyHVRmVXCOKQgvNm1fT2s5FU-z6wg7TJV0_6kZv1tzUAF8hMKluEHCe_OsIoJJezX-fa0W/s1600/CDL8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2eJXJy4BtqZhSlzmVBRxuegFQTe-saDM-kZBReT-k6L9YXQFZ-VXr9K-807zKBjcr4No3HQOyHVRmVXCOKQgvNm1fT2s5FU-z6wg7TJV0_6kZv1tzUAF8hMKluEHCe_OsIoJJezX-fa0W/s1600/CDL8.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pleased with ourselves for finding such a cool line through the roofs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After a rest day, the same team - Nick, Guy, Greg and myself met at the King's house pub a the head of Glencoe, with our eyes set on Stob Coire Nan Lochain. Totally still in the morning, it was the first time this winter i could actually call the weather "nice".<br />
Greg and myself had a quick play on a great looking new line, which will one day provide two very hard, impressive pitches. After retreating, we went to check out the Tempest and i got stuck in. The climbing was hard and fairly well protected for half of the pitch, but felt intimidating, not knowing anything about it. There was a lot of clearing of iced ledges, edges and cracks, and combined with making a few hard moves the wrong way at about half height, which i had to reverse meant that my arms were feeling pretty weiry by the time i got to the niche at two thirds height.<br />
I kind of realised at this point that i wouldn't get any worthwhile gear from then on, so hammered home a bomber wire and committed to the final section. The very last pull over the snowy bulge at the lip was a bit heart-in-mouth, with a long long fall on the cards. After abseiling off, Greg also led the pitch on my gear.<br />
It really is a fantastic pitch, and will be a classic in the future i'm sure.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwPdDpueVXNVmtCQP29X5CagYdIFDxpBzAxXtHJKJgDtuI8zOpd-8QYGnsRw4DKYy-HxnXjpv52-cywFG6oSaS4KdF2grTpQNBrfJmTGh3b_45UYb_TQZUDSgvH3i8P7hzwxePDMhS4cy/s1600/025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwPdDpueVXNVmtCQP29X5CagYdIFDxpBzAxXtHJKJgDtuI8zOpd-8QYGnsRw4DKYy-HxnXjpv52-cywFG6oSaS4KdF2grTpQNBrfJmTGh3b_45UYb_TQZUDSgvH3i8P7hzwxePDMhS4cy/s1600/025.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tempest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYrqN7EqSp8QU0hwGvaDA6WSH1kP0lkoidkT-SuQ83P5V9zRhM8Ei7gGS4rFyRSf-5BUqghMrohTu3UpW4XbjUiZYiDM6wCfPziSvxxp3V_huAplEQQV4S1lvCCEzJ7dYBIgD82EnG0N-/s1600/033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYrqN7EqSp8QU0hwGvaDA6WSH1kP0lkoidkT-SuQ83P5V9zRhM8Ei7gGS4rFyRSf-5BUqghMrohTu3UpW4XbjUiZYiDM6wCfPziSvxxp3V_huAplEQQV4S1lvCCEzJ7dYBIgD82EnG0N-/s1600/033.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-59006928159463098242013-12-31T06:13:00.000-08:002013-12-31T06:13:19.807-08:00Getting out of the carAs we all know, sometimes the hardest thing about climbing is getting started. The first few moves of a pitch are often the hardest. Racking up can sometimes be a forced procedure. Getting out of the car can seem like a fate worse than death. You could trace it back even further; getting out of bed, packing the night before, being born.... sometimes it just doesn't feel easy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGVVSxbu6A9iq7DFZNinlTgDzxQj7fpi7B_uCzr9MCIupA8qSnl37NLMZqptmwKxvC2lX6RMqFTv5e5JmKrTXM8h2Ds8qUEHpxm6Xg3jDw-CHV1PnywrK3Prz7D1nqzsT3cKdhf6EIsQV/s1600/stirling+bomber+011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGVVSxbu6A9iq7DFZNinlTgDzxQj7fpi7B_uCzr9MCIupA8qSnl37NLMZqptmwKxvC2lX6RMqFTv5e5JmKrTXM8h2Ds8qUEHpxm6Xg3jDw-CHV1PnywrK3Prz7D1nqzsT3cKdhf6EIsQV/s640/stirling+bomber+011.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Murdoch taking one for the team in 70 Mph winds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The last month of 2013 has brought some of the worst winter weather Scotland has seen in a while. I've worn my ski goggles from leaving the car to the bottom of the crag more times in the last month than ever before. Its fair to say that its all been a bit harder than usual.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixFrH9OiEN-XFeik0RlG8r_H8mj2qaUie-o_OjsqiecqzPPWIlHjHn3nuhmDO2uUYwSwl_J3PuvPjiWNxqE8rXZnG3zs0i4DZc6xjeQRHYsm1cIY2DIcX-yUonuEcsEe1znQzQUWHRyN33/s1600/DSC01411message.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixFrH9OiEN-XFeik0RlG8r_H8mj2qaUie-o_OjsqiecqzPPWIlHjHn3nuhmDO2uUYwSwl_J3PuvPjiWNxqE8rXZnG3zs0i4DZc6xjeQRHYsm1cIY2DIcX-yUonuEcsEe1znQzQUWHRyN33/s640/DSC01411message.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attempting a speed record on The Message...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, its also pretty cool when you can be tested climbing a route 5 grades beneath your limit due to factors other than the climbing itself. This element is what makes Scottish climbing special and feel so much "bigger" than it actually is.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQq47P07F50gKbDaawpsWIlm9MS4dCS95V-qd3YBWki5WHLL3YMzKdHA9OkCkbYVOzDh4GrpXblLVVGfEd3jye18BPVMqOdES60oUKaTpRoe4HXLszQ6mTRRyZdn6lqW6DJve1qI-h1LJ0/s1600/P1020208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQq47P07F50gKbDaawpsWIlm9MS4dCS95V-qd3YBWki5WHLL3YMzKdHA9OkCkbYVOzDh4GrpXblLVVGfEd3jye18BPVMqOdES60oUKaTpRoe4HXLszQ6mTRRyZdn6lqW6DJve1qI-h1LJ0/s640/P1020208.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on Babes in The Wood.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On a slightly calmer day a couple of weeks ago myself and Greg managed the second winter ascent, and first on sight of a fun route in Sneachda called "Babes in the Wood" VIII,8. Its a fantastic tenuous pitch which gets E2 in Summer and climbs very differently to how you'd expect.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCj4uwYWby55nTvwu2gRrtrYmpOWe2aus1uKqsC918VYvLzNb4l1tbdpCWtOnYD6AyA-rZQF2UndOszP8GMXA33yjvgOeHlGCBb5VbjHUsPiK0onvG5TY2_W8q9CFPK5JTweJS289tW_UG/s1600/963066_10153707701915707_1192647611_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCj4uwYWby55nTvwu2gRrtrYmpOWe2aus1uKqsC918VYvLzNb4l1tbdpCWtOnYD6AyA-rZQF2UndOszP8GMXA33yjvgOeHlGCBb5VbjHUsPiK0onvG5TY2_W8q9CFPK5JTweJS289tW_UG/s400/963066_10153707701915707_1192647611_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Down-climbing from something new and tasty yesterday</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Over the last two days me and Greg have tried four different routes, none of which we got up. In fact, on none of which we got further than 10 metres up the first pitch! But this is why climbing is great, sometimes you float up things with seemingly little effort, sometimes its an effort to just get out of the car - but without the contrast, i think there'd be a real lack of appreciation. Bring on 2014.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1QKHZDMnNHLAcX1H56KX-5ehFLT58FHycKNwJnHtizlDW_kZoWUXF3xxp2gkWSM4q72GMJrHYgVS1-cmR4R7iNoM3RzkJiFumv7OIhKaZ8QCS4IfG7G3qu1XcUM3CPJrpxl9BfLSvWg5/s1600/bail+with+greg+001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1QKHZDMnNHLAcX1H56KX-5ehFLT58FHycKNwJnHtizlDW_kZoWUXF3xxp2gkWSM4q72GMJrHYgVS1-cmR4R7iNoM3RzkJiFumv7OIhKaZ8QCS4IfG7G3qu1XcUM3CPJrpxl9BfLSvWg5/s640/bail+with+greg+001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bailing for the second time yesterday!...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-47560823689977422442013-12-10T06:32:00.000-08:002013-12-21T14:39:43.775-08:00A Change of ModesI've always loved Autumn. Its a time when your motivation starts to change, and you look forward to the upcoming winter and new goals.<br />
This November i went to the world mecca of sport climbing - Catalunya, for two weeks with a large group of friends. We mainly climbed at Terradets, with a few days spent elsewhere and enjoyed sun with cold crisp temperatures for all but two of the fourteen days.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOu5UX3um42SxKYA6DbjoiWFH0ED65NQ72baiqLGowTeGEPnWlQ9EnOq5pu3vMAou175UGGFmZLmP6qhdzEAPkgQRuG4cHkl-ys7jqf-x3qeFMKBoHTB4cw98r0-CVSLpHiGdVnjbYOo_/s1600/P1080249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOu5UX3um42SxKYA6DbjoiWFH0ED65NQ72baiqLGowTeGEPnWlQ9EnOq5pu3vMAou175UGGFmZLmP6qhdzEAPkgQRuG4cHkl-ys7jqf-x3qeFMKBoHTB4cw98r0-CVSLpHiGdVnjbYOo_/s640/P1080249.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin Doyle at Abella De La Conca.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The quality of the sport climbing in Catalunya is simply incredible. Pitch after pitch of the best moves you'll ever do, stacked on top of each other means you find yourself wondering why you've ever bothered with nuts, cams and long walk-ins!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3ToiecuqzT1bXP6y7iym7VeX7AiGJBLlVrKAh-pR42jCsufOQyamF31JIoC4I-CcVkgXPXORq9SFj0BYhPHYLDQ6fMw3CBky5MakebC1fzyNvQWeTGSqi1o8DQ2_aZ-8MChyphenhyphen2_jhq5kK/s1600/P1080274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3ToiecuqzT1bXP6y7iym7VeX7AiGJBLlVrKAh-pR42jCsufOQyamF31JIoC4I-CcVkgXPXORq9SFj0BYhPHYLDQ6fMw3CBky5MakebC1fzyNvQWeTGSqi1o8DQ2_aZ-8MChyphenhyphen2_jhq5kK/s640/P1080274.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hot Austrian girl attracting some attention on Bruixes wall..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
In the first week i wasn't feeling too good, recovering from some kind of virus which made me sleepy and dizzy all day, i was really worried that it was going to stop me from trying hard. However come the second week i was over it, and managed to onsite 7c and get an 8a in a hand full of goes!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCio7CgWbaGF_9EFXwkx5nVwJerQzAdkRNboUEW3yHGibYA2nJciG69MP8wAS5ID3eJuqjLzBhhRkbn29LDz1EhoJxK_djaLiExN083XTPttfJPbvJlwy5ZTi0AfdFjA9cHP5TlOcuzUzB/s1600/P1050089+(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCio7CgWbaGF_9EFXwkx5nVwJerQzAdkRNboUEW3yHGibYA2nJciG69MP8wAS5ID3eJuqjLzBhhRkbn29LDz1EhoJxK_djaLiExN083XTPttfJPbvJlwy5ZTi0AfdFjA9cHP5TlOcuzUzB/s640/P1050089+(1).JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on Bon Viatge 8a.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Shortly after returning from Spain, and after a small work stint on the farm, i drove north to Aviemore. I'm going to be living in Aviemore until the end of February, which is when my Scottish winter guide's test is. I've made it my mission to be in the best possible state i can be before the test starts, which means knowing all the major crags in Scotland like the back of my hand, and being able to nav off the Cairngorm plateau in the worst possible weather imaginable with an assessor breathing down my neck!<br />
<br />
On arriving in Aviemore at the end of last week, i managed to snatch two consecutive days of climbing in Coire an Lochain with my mate Neil. First we did "The Vicar", and then "Ventricle", both fantastic routes I've wanted to do for a while.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoFGMwAP0m2p9o6ti5t9niQMc-MQ9YcP-Tqn1z0-nsNRuDXtiMIXnYiHapzT-KVAQpzJff41KaaWTutBMB7EpeAQkSMnC-UjcYhZ5awIMGEw-aVmV5WfMaA7OaxcXbPy1Uh2Jo3WbzSTF/s1600/P1080303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoFGMwAP0m2p9o6ti5t9niQMc-MQ9YcP-Tqn1z0-nsNRuDXtiMIXnYiHapzT-KVAQpzJff41KaaWTutBMB7EpeAQkSMnC-UjcYhZ5awIMGEw-aVmV5WfMaA7OaxcXbPy1Uh2Jo3WbzSTF/s640/P1080303.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting up the Vicar, i realised i hadn't hung on axes in almost 10 months!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gNhslx3-M5pq2Uf1eZaXUg-nDofyNX5hpM2axwUo5y2wHao2WuTSI2OkQGBoldHqL_dMXwRqUaE6rNArm1q-vrvlCb89s3Rsucis5WJL22NoOEL6jxpvSQXDqJCGFDOXuu4DfbJw2m7r/s1600/P1080315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gNhslx3-M5pq2Uf1eZaXUg-nDofyNX5hpM2axwUo5y2wHao2WuTSI2OkQGBoldHqL_dMXwRqUaE6rNArm1q-vrvlCb89s3Rsucis5WJL22NoOEL6jxpvSQXDqJCGFDOXuu4DfbJw2m7r/s640/P1080315.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun steep climbing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiMs4s2smCABCpqRmVDDAEQhbhDg2kSr6BDeJg4wbn2DNfkTjMyeUG-iRb5P5WZPYBPh8b0xpAAf5wFXoduPy5l-9HxDoZwYec45eG8707F0dc7xcvgGG4jlRcBuY_ZHiA5U9SE2OSihym/s1600/P1080332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiMs4s2smCABCpqRmVDDAEQhbhDg2kSr6BDeJg4wbn2DNfkTjMyeUG-iRb5P5WZPYBPh8b0xpAAf5wFXoduPy5l-9HxDoZwYec45eG8707F0dc7xcvgGG4jlRcBuY_ZHiA5U9SE2OSihym/s640/P1080332.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on the first pitch of Ventricle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As i sit here now, its +7 degs. and gusting 80mph at 700 metres. I need to find somewhere to hang my Beastmaker soon or i'm gonna go mad!<br />
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-75217565674404993522013-11-22T10:43:00.000-08:002013-11-22T10:43:03.237-08:00Talk in HathersageOn Saturday the 30th of November (end of next week), the Outside store in Hathersage is having a day geared towards getting everyone psyched for the winter. In the evening, Neil Gresham and myself will be doing talks about wintery climbing all over the world. If you're nearby, make sure you come along, should be a great night!<br />
<br />
More info here <a href="http://www.outside.co.uk/latest/news/Winterfest-2013">here </a><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPlkoXSgauowZDlWPr-35lJikd47C6W4xwuL-MXdlI8EImJwqqfC6tCdX3q-yCkklU9OfcRpWOiWUZmcEOOAK4bFnZilomHpSReB7HTKUEnv8QBEzZmH_BdfvdrwCnAiWU6IR0KhyphenhyphenAo7M/s1600/_MG_6086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPlkoXSgauowZDlWPr-35lJikd47C6W4xwuL-MXdlI8EImJwqqfC6tCdX3q-yCkklU9OfcRpWOiWUZmcEOOAK4bFnZilomHpSReB7HTKUEnv8QBEzZmH_BdfvdrwCnAiWU6IR0KhyphenhyphenAo7M/s640/_MG_6086.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-39998389524072262082013-10-22T13:00:00.002-07:002013-10-22T13:00:08.090-07:00The Summer That WasWhen i was 15, i camped out at the bottom of the Llanberis pass with a couple of mates for several weeks in our summer holiday. Although it rained a lot, and we didn't scratch the surface of our naively ambitious wishlists it was a great time from which i have fond memories. Since that summer i hadn't really been back to Wales, so with my upcoming UKsummer test for the Guide's scheme in September i thought it would be a great chance to spend a while in Llanberis, making up for lost time and trying to make a dent in that wishlist!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC50A5ghMY6Ll4PSo2CnskPF56ZLav9FA8K-ZZRnaAAp0Y52PKW_E-1TJDMs42ruaYP4w5Oy0XlAPgkEyhBw7b1VrWrfxRer5U-MOPz1fr958XbenlsFENXLupZMbKs1uGM-5VC0-K8xLF/s1600/2006_0130060016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC50A5ghMY6Ll4PSo2CnskPF56ZLav9FA8K-ZZRnaAAp0Y52PKW_E-1TJDMs42ruaYP4w5Oy0XlAPgkEyhBw7b1VrWrfxRer5U-MOPz1fr958XbenlsFENXLupZMbKs1uGM-5VC0-K8xLF/s640/2006_0130060016.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer of 2006, it rained a lot, so we messed about a lot. Ioan Doyle and myself having fun.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I couldn't have picked a better summer to stay put in the UK. There was a month or so in July/August when i think every crag in the UK must have been snuff dry. In this period i concentrated on the routes in the pass and on Cloggy, when later on i was spending a lot of time on the coast, either clipping bolts on the Orme or getting pumped stupid at Gogarth.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmUKjMFtiQpSvxFUkGp9a4hgj7-zKqEtngaeazdNCo-pp2da9vW9XECXPL4PSPE8FScGCqI0c_9F63vs4QycvtrvXo_h5WQs03eAQ3lGuh1qsMwVzPCqZnFR2fwLLWqV3jWahzYD1BPXz/s1600/224618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmUKjMFtiQpSvxFUkGp9a4hgj7-zKqEtngaeazdNCo-pp2da9vW9XECXPL4PSPE8FScGCqI0c_9F63vs4QycvtrvXo_h5WQs03eAQ3lGuh1qsMwVzPCqZnFR2fwLLWqV3jWahzYD1BPXz/s640/224618.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lord of the Flies - THE classic.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO0Ju1VzD8y7ZGWBIMHjrF4kjHuekFjcEnYUQjGB5EqqIuqGasto6Iue-MFUfwPKe7VFgZxs48l_4U7g07MJavjSGepDKsIB2DUF6y7TcPHBPpwm6gMOFMbwxzs9qoE0MTyrZx9RStaUuz/s1600/IMGP0747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO0Ju1VzD8y7ZGWBIMHjrF4kjHuekFjcEnYUQjGB5EqqIuqGasto6Iue-MFUfwPKe7VFgZxs48l_4U7g07MJavjSGepDKsIB2DUF6y7TcPHBPpwm6gMOFMbwxzs9qoE0MTyrZx9RStaUuz/s640/IMGP0747.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Citadel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
My route tally at the end of September stood at 25 E5's and 6 E6's, which makes the summer of 2013 my best ever for trad climbing by quite some way. I also managed to climb an 8A at LPT, which was one of my summer goals.<br />
The stand out routes which i can still feel a buzz from even months later would have to be "Profundum Lacu" on Pabbay - beautiful wall, beautiful place and great company, "Lord of the Flies" on the Cromlech, just perfect climbing, bone dry and without a single chalked hold, "Ludwig" on Gogarth's Yellow walls - a great soft adventure, and "Tonight at Noon" on Craig y Doris - pumped out of my mind!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGo_o0LeC3PgW9pIusELvTed9vrbRhO5-xm287Mafsk_zw29TcYN45baOBdAmX8jS5uGxP4DCpzjjTJ1PRSUzJiycmvY1Tl1FObqQNOCIchodmDghKQh-USWoJmY1UWaKxqw5xnySxzpZ/s1600/1239374_10151968745038949_68171227_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGo_o0LeC3PgW9pIusELvTed9vrbRhO5-xm287Mafsk_zw29TcYN45baOBdAmX8jS5uGxP4DCpzjjTJ1PRSUzJiycmvY1Tl1FObqQNOCIchodmDghKQh-USWoJmY1UWaKxqw5xnySxzpZ/s640/1239374_10151968745038949_68171227_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cad</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsSMba6sPwP_-s0fKhMaUStnUPcde7taqIPgDoVov5tr0Brg7ig_0MCm4c8af-kX96MwVMcXHUlT_0eZWVFtmNg_k2orP_H91SZN4KDGOvGf7XFS2Krd9knxXpTXgNw41H1KyAKu6AL58/s1600/P1070852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsSMba6sPwP_-s0fKhMaUStnUPcde7taqIPgDoVov5tr0Brg7ig_0MCm4c8af-kX96MwVMcXHUlT_0eZWVFtmNg_k2orP_H91SZN4KDGOvGf7XFS2Krd9knxXpTXgNw41H1KyAKu6AL58/s640/P1070852.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Orme</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
However, it hasn't all been play. As i said, the main reason for spending so much time in Wales was to prepare for the guides test i had down there. My preparation was largely in the form of getting to know the area like the back of my hand, so i had lots of options of places to take my "clients" during the test week. I also spent a fair amount of time shadowing people working in an MIA type role. Although multi-pitch climbing in the UK and teaching rock climbing like an "instructor" certainly isn't what most people think guiding is about, its important to be able to have that string to your bow, which in part, was what the September test was all about.<br />
<br />
When test week arrived i was really excited to get stuck in and show what i could do. I think i respond well in an assessment environment, and although it wasn't all plain sailing, i actually thoroughly enjoyed the whole week. That said, its a really weird feeling having someone watching, criticising and discussing everything you do. I repeatedly found myself questioning why and how i was doing things, things which i can normally do with my eyes closed, but i guess that's the whole point.<br />
I was really happy to be told that i'd passed and didn't have to re-sit any days. Although sad to leave North Wales, i had accomplished the mission of the summer, and can look to the winter. This winter i'll be spending a lot of time in Scotland, partly because the climbing is seriously good, and partly because that's where the next test is, bring it on!!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8eiTWisXe91D8EIEFqjjkeZZRgR577DziVRRt7YznrX7FZl4REs1bmeIuoCsx1GT26FlL7YA5GKAfV4GDdrVOrwTvrIb41gJE43aglw7qY-uOxPrcGcFf_HniifFVsqs4uid3lx-bS69/s1600/189735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8eiTWisXe91D8EIEFqjjkeZZRgR577DziVRRt7YznrX7FZl4REs1bmeIuoCsx1GT26FlL7YA5GKAfV4GDdrVOrwTvrIb41gJE43aglw7qY-uOxPrcGcFf_HniifFVsqs4uid3lx-bS69/s640/189735.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
.<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-12529861650641758472013-07-15T12:43:00.002-07:002013-07-15T13:14:40.086-07:00Classic Rock in a DayIt was last October when Libby Peter first suggested to me the idea of doing all the N. Wales routes from the famous coffee table book "Classic Rock" in a day without motorised transport. It seemed like a good idea, as it would be a great way for me to get to know N. Wales a bit better and at the same time bring the Alps to Wales.<br />
<br />
We did a small recce day a few days beforehand to sus out some of the link's between crags and also do the big route on Lliwed (12 pitches!). Then a couple of days later we got stuck in, with a 2a.m start we left my van in Ogwen and started to run in the direction of Craig Yr Ysfa. Light started to filter through the early morning haze just as we topped out on Great Gully.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrYtNLU4Cx1O1WDCnYan9pyGIguCJVF1pHO4-zHdlN_3zZB2xGQb3gBf_P00sr3hIVuKs6PoGV05kPQNNGorV4UWuvanQrG8o2hO4iK3ZWb6Ir3BR9Lbx3TTILEncCdnjoOHSGVeV6ncr/s1600/Great-Gully.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrYtNLU4Cx1O1WDCnYan9pyGIguCJVF1pHO4-zHdlN_3zZB2xGQb3gBf_P00sr3hIVuKs6PoGV05kPQNNGorV4UWuvanQrG8o2hO4iK3ZWb6Ir3BR9Lbx3TTILEncCdnjoOHSGVeV6ncr/s400/Great-Gully.jpg" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Libby enjoying the night time ambiance of Great Gulley.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDrjQ0bT4OUNvjCTQXByAHhi-VJzNXbTwZ3h_GQRtRhZ8fWIl9wuXHeDeLumOmChxETrCB2lndtbjtlAcsZAeW4bEMtXr_fuV6pDkOzfn4zMqFHuauC2bn13dheAF8yheSj2luWSZv8a14/s1600/1004063_146081702258434_1231158010_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDrjQ0bT4OUNvjCTQXByAHhi-VJzNXbTwZ3h_GQRtRhZ8fWIl9wuXHeDeLumOmChxETrCB2lndtbjtlAcsZAeW4bEMtXr_fuV6pDkOzfn4zMqFHuauC2bn13dheAF8yheSj2luWSZv8a14/s400/1004063_146081702258434_1231158010_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on the Crux.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a knee crunching descent, we ran a very tedious few km's up the Ogwen road to Milestone Buttress, which then led to Grooved Arete, Pinnacle Rib and Gashed Crag on Tryfan.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_l-_2p6Ei9AJ9tlwXLjP4-VxBespPdZQsMWQPT9ZOxY5zQHgE4Z-SCyZ1t29XT_WQ2Ydr4LHChRQdPEtH8eZut5ka-0d6MCTm0KnUTlT9jC0muXYZ-FdI2pQzj8IW53M3CNdTrwt6zUc/s1600/P1080141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_l-_2p6Ei9AJ9tlwXLjP4-VxBespPdZQsMWQPT9ZOxY5zQHgE4Z-SCyZ1t29XT_WQ2Ydr4LHChRQdPEtH8eZut5ka-0d6MCTm0KnUTlT9jC0muXYZ-FdI2pQzj8IW53M3CNdTrwt6zUc/s400/P1080141.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running towards Tryfan at about 5 a.m.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE5btZVDJs8s7cRdUvGxiE-sR5YxzOxbM6KVSVIM37olDDRIRr74jQ0gCtdscIMP3pk2eT994SHUd5Goq3JMujb87yBCsYXhFoMFy4W23uW8j2WIHqcNtdQKQAKp3gwwon2XnjtveGj1Kh/s1600/P1080146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE5btZVDJs8s7cRdUvGxiE-sR5YxzOxbM6KVSVIM37olDDRIRr74jQ0gCtdscIMP3pk2eT994SHUd5Goq3JMujb87yBCsYXhFoMFy4W23uW8j2WIHqcNtdQKQAKp3gwwon2XnjtveGj1Kh/s400/P1080146.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Libby cruising on Grooved Arete.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After topping out on Tryfan a high traverse saw us beneath Glyder Fach where we climbed Direct Route. Another knee cruncher saw us to the bottom of the Idwal Slabs where we climbed Hope, Lazarus and The Arete. After going over the summit of Glyder Fawr we descended in to the pass to tick two routes on the Cromlech, two on Carreg Wastad, and one on the Grochan.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOj5mOmq06zH8FbMHu-k3JQOoariO18jAAQxjwB-u-Wfuc9pIrAe-Tm-CZEYZqdNZnhjfN533ZYV_kwc39c03Gt35P5ZPKydcL8hSveY5cho2F73Oi1fJkiMi7Z17fNiUziNpviP8uCQOc/s1600/P1080150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOj5mOmq06zH8FbMHu-k3JQOoariO18jAAQxjwB-u-Wfuc9pIrAe-Tm-CZEYZqdNZnhjfN533ZYV_kwc39c03Gt35P5ZPKydcL8hSveY5cho2F73Oi1fJkiMi7Z17fNiUziNpviP8uCQOc/s400/P1080150.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Libby high above Cwm Idwal.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUV7N4dHQOJDtj2KQ0RuSZz8nZBhtvcEzh-AY-Onzn48cPqW5VDPfoJObgpqE0of9Sv9H2EJnWPmRKwnHCWOwfSwFl9bg4MrF9HzGTZAe9XshgJlTI6Pws-e7lSfbcceIh1BZhyphenhyphenH8RP8eJ/s1600/1044197_10151724047467702_47097749_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUV7N4dHQOJDtj2KQ0RuSZz8nZBhtvcEzh-AY-Onzn48cPqW5VDPfoJObgpqE0of9Sv9H2EJnWPmRKwnHCWOwfSwFl9bg4MrF9HzGTZAe9XshgJlTI6Pws-e7lSfbcceIh1BZhyphenhyphenH8RP8eJ/s400/1044197_10151724047467702_47097749_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on Spiral Stairs on the Cromlech.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
We stopped for 30 minutes or so to eat a sandwich we'd stashed at the Cromlech boulders, then continued the mission. The Cracks on Dinas Mot went fast, but when we got to Main Wall on Cyrn Las we both started to climb much more carefully as our concentration was fading, not helped by a Chinook helicopter which buzzed round us in circles for most of the route.<br />
<br />
By now the sun was frying us and the ascent up to the col beneath Crib Goch was very unpleasant.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0J9mAFl0ojTgSHNBqMTborxkSvnoHZgcyIGMAXmE9FxJA8_BfjbswWVcE6ZsIpReDFLBZHQgKfJcPqYhVrkyh5XtWAro7vKfLiUWqk5OqFgL9EBDeS-PooAI_56XXp_OuGZfr01NO9YP/s1600/P1080154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0J9mAFl0ojTgSHNBqMTborxkSvnoHZgcyIGMAXmE9FxJA8_BfjbswWVcE6ZsIpReDFLBZHQgKfJcPqYhVrkyh5XtWAro7vKfLiUWqk5OqFgL9EBDeS-PooAI_56XXp_OuGZfr01NO9YP/s400/P1080154.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Libby eyeing up the last big one from the col. Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands on Lliwedd.<strong style="background-color: #f7f7f7; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 22px; text-align: start;"> </strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After descending then reascending all the way to the base of Lliwedd, <span style="text-align: center;">Avalanche/Longlands/Red Wall went pretty smoothly and we were a mere 800 meter descent away from the bikes we'd stashed at Nant Gwyant which would take us to Tremadog.</span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMvSe1bhSdwLEreE2U1HTElN2ZXGb9VQjiAxOHeHXyMuEsXtIeckPJCd3AnMGc5WzwPcX87PzZSasu6w9gmkg6820P-J0e4Wc3Oe2NM146qBYCNGhSYZGUAFRNPaRScZUOoITJzEPb5Hb/s1600/Lliwedd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMvSe1bhSdwLEreE2U1HTElN2ZXGb9VQjiAxOHeHXyMuEsXtIeckPJCd3AnMGc5WzwPcX87PzZSasu6w9gmkg6820P-J0e4Wc3Oe2NM146qBYCNGhSYZGUAFRNPaRScZUOoITJzEPb5Hb/s400/Lliwedd.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on the last few metres of Lliwedd.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
About an hour's cycle later we were at Tremadog. A scorching ascent of Creagh Dhu Wall was a greasy, sweaty, midgey affair and it was with relief that we lay on the tarmac next to Libby's van barefoot and content.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It was a big day! made worse by the heat, but we both agreed that it felt much easier than either of us were expecting, due to a mixture of eating well, drinking well and being psyched! </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
So....the routes were:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<strong style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px;">1. Great Gully VD</strong><span style="background-color: #f7f7f7; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px;"> </span><span style="background-color: #f7f7f7; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px;">267m – Craig yr Ysfa</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: #f7f7f7; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>2. Gashed Crag VD</strong> 170m – East Face of Tryfan</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>3. Pinnacle Rib Route VD/S </strong>175m – East Face of Tryfan</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>4. Grooved Arête HVD</strong> 233m – East Face of Tryfan</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>5. Direct Route VD</strong> 85m – Milestone Buttress</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>6. Direct Route HS 4c</strong> 91m – Glyder Fach</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>7. Hope VD</strong> 136m – Idwal Slabs</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>8. Lazarus S 4a</strong> 43m – Idwal Slabs</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>9. The Arete VD</strong> 24m – Idwal Slabs</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>10. Grey Slab VS 4b</strong> 85m – Glyder Fawr</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>11. Nea VS 4b</strong> 75m – Clogwyn y Grochan</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>12. Crackstone Rib S 4a</strong> 54m – Carreg Wastad</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>13. Wrinkle VD </strong>71m – Carreg Wastad</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>14. Flying Buttress VD</strong> 87m – Dinas Cromlech</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>15. Spiral Stairs VD </strong>84m – Dinas Cromlech</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>16. The Cracks HS 5a</strong> 90m – Dinas Mot</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>17. Main Wall HS 4b</strong> 140m – Cyrn Las</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>18. Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands S 4b</strong> 286m – Lliwedd</div>
<div style="background-color: #f7f7f7; border: 0px; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 20px;">
<strong>19. Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b</strong> 63m – Craig y Castell</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
And the stats are - 2259 metres of climbing on the routes. About 2000+ metres of ascent to get to the routes. Approximately 3000 metres of descent, (but likely much more), and 30km of distance for the running part (excluding the cycle to Tremadog). We started at 2.30a.m. and finished about 18 hours later. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
We soloed every route apart from Creagh Dhu Wall which we moved together on as we needed a rope to abseil off anyhow. We wore rock shoes for about half of the routes, and our fell-running shoes for the other half.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It was great to see that even being the most unfit i've been in years, the "long day memory" is still lurking in my muscles, and i was surprised to wake up feeling really fresh the day after and able to have a sizable day cragging. Long live the Summer!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<br />
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-79000391940412645222013-06-27T11:34:00.003-07:002013-06-29T04:04:42.720-07:00Hebridean Heaven A large part of my brain seems to be taken up by a bank of potential climbing trips which realistically would take many lifetimes to achieve. I sometimes get really stressed out trying to prioritise, categorise and sub categorise them within the "idea bank", so that i can try and see how they'll fall in to place!<br />
<br />
For some time, the top of the list in category "UK", has been the south Barra islands of Pabbay and Mingulay. These two uninhabited chunks of Lewisian Gneiss have to be up there with Lundy, Orkney and Pembroke for the title of ultimate UK sea cliff destination, (not to mention St.Bees...) with the added interest of the "Robinson Crusoe" factor. After a winter of work i was psyched out of my mind to see the trip coming together nicely, and i don't think any of us could believe our luck as we boarded the ferry in Oban in sweltering heat, with a forecast that predicted the same for the next 7 days. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVn6Dg6XvUbOy6MuApW9NwP2q4ANVGFhJ0aWnLBO-mk_p7ZD9X4Gf6xG0TGMYAXr6gCYjr1Vd9Cg4yjEtIWPqrWoBxxbcHc7582jHr0AgOF0LmhPX0RN5oAfvZCmZI5XR9HJDjZ_wZBhzd/s600/456px-Outer_Hebrides_UK_relief_location_map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVn6Dg6XvUbOy6MuApW9NwP2q4ANVGFhJ0aWnLBO-mk_p7ZD9X4Gf6xG0TGMYAXr6gCYjr1Vd9Cg4yjEtIWPqrWoBxxbcHc7582jHr0AgOF0LmhPX0RN5oAfvZCmZI5XR9HJDjZ_wZBhzd/s320/456px-Outer_Hebrides_UK_relief_location_map.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pabbay and Mingulay are pretty much the most southerly 2 islands in the Outer Hebridean chain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfXdN8BtR977kS9wO9nGi-qtEw9hAgXddpDze3I4zkwxZwQHgiOYLiauR0TTLPuf4jQGIkM8cnW9_Yxm0VBkO0-JthE0_92DkX6s-N8pzxZAXhCqWMqrwFPYBLuBkREhdg9oUlsmejXml/s1600/P1070889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfXdN8BtR977kS9wO9nGi-qtEw9hAgXddpDze3I4zkwxZwQHgiOYLiauR0TTLPuf4jQGIkM8cnW9_Yxm0VBkO0-JthE0_92DkX6s-N8pzxZAXhCqWMqrwFPYBLuBkREhdg9oUlsmejXml/s640/P1070889.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land fades away as the ferry takes us to Barra.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGL1zXAbPwWhWjK7-EtjTaf1sOKqbjbFrXgQy-kthnMVLoZW1zxLR2Bcp3ff4wqkry-KvEigW6cZnLEXtVZp-sGTf_OWDx_0z4XOMCM90y30KtaP_JKUkebQlxlzE6cvYQzwH05qP0fvd/s1600/P1070899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGL1zXAbPwWhWjK7-EtjTaf1sOKqbjbFrXgQy-kthnMVLoZW1zxLR2Bcp3ff4wqkry-KvEigW6cZnLEXtVZp-sGTf_OWDx_0z4XOMCM90y30KtaP_JKUkebQlxlzE6cvYQzwH05qP0fvd/s640/P1070899.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donald and his boat "The Boy James"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Donald - the man in the know when it comes to getting to Pabbay - had his boat at the ready as soon as the ferry landed on Barra, and before we knew it we were off in to the choppy seas in search of our island.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXV3r1Da3xMnMRkKN476fBE9ZSF9EZAKnNJ3FmpnLAWO-kTonkKmgOx-MyVPMv5zXNd3D_MsY4JPy0N4rDJhOhnkpCEv3Eoitm-xl2aQbCFgLHihVxViAt2G0vl9pcvrkbd3oVVQWVsED/s1600/P1070912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXV3r1Da3xMnMRkKN476fBE9ZSF9EZAKnNJ3FmpnLAWO-kTonkKmgOx-MyVPMv5zXNd3D_MsY4JPy0N4rDJhOhnkpCEv3Eoitm-xl2aQbCFgLHihVxViAt2G0vl9pcvrkbd3oVVQWVsED/s640/P1070912.JPG" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donald.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogaAvFlNekA2n9WLtCqm-wk91sAtqcdXgiOFtkPelWPdONvbfyn0Qx24Cr3yQVxneUQ9MmmIk1thgtyyVfv-e5fdZz8J3YqOO3OOTkaEkcXWlzC74HxiRTz2-GVtJ6cN7ptSwz2yY5FCp/s1600/P1070939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogaAvFlNekA2n9WLtCqm-wk91sAtqcdXgiOFtkPelWPdONvbfyn0Qx24Cr3yQVxneUQ9MmmIk1thgtyyVfv-e5fdZz8J3YqOO3OOTkaEkcXWlzC74HxiRTz2-GVtJ6cN7ptSwz2yY5FCp/s640/P1070939.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Are you sure this thing floats Donald?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh836pAfBDWkz05cHQfByJ1GdUi3pn47HE0zKsBIRG1_B2xyZkSKs1z_wds5dqMAiBO9NqVtxEDz_F5tdxpPCinPYTAOkYHMOxmF1cSR-5RNqqRXCU6odOAwi-ePED2hNjsl3ypar5-W3G9/s1600/P1070942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh836pAfBDWkz05cHQfByJ1GdUi3pn47HE0zKsBIRG1_B2xyZkSKs1z_wds5dqMAiBO9NqVtxEDz_F5tdxpPCinPYTAOkYHMOxmF1cSR-5RNqqRXCU6odOAwi-ePED2hNjsl3ypar5-W3G9/s640/P1070942.JPG" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving The Boy James.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIIeUB1sDonKOvYaHT0HhwxYBJitQpocGgJ_4nHe031o6q0lcNl0raU4wBjR9gPnofav6drSdGWh91VltTWNivBtdQW9IXpQcD8-eCzBCuo70B6mVUcDY3WA2Pjdc2ODhh_yhS13Oj_LP/s1600/P1080025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIIeUB1sDonKOvYaHT0HhwxYBJitQpocGgJ_4nHe031o6q0lcNl0raU4wBjR9gPnofav6drSdGWh91VltTWNivBtdQW9IXpQcD8-eCzBCuo70B6mVUcDY3WA2Pjdc2ODhh_yhS13Oj_LP/s640/P1080025.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dougie cruising, with Newfoundland just over the Horizon...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAu94laUFkVlZ4sQF_sG2CRcLehYy2U0VLcLUhvnC30r0M62Ce7s7bMHRJQ9rI2sbkzCihPR0-uXqKTz37Dw2PbbUIhJpx2GoBZy8rvJ9n_RVhlsaCjdX-LMZFwlDeWasD-hRIThu6ffCy/s1024/9043943634_1840fb8258_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAu94laUFkVlZ4sQF_sG2CRcLehYy2U0VLcLUhvnC30r0M62Ce7s7bMHRJQ9rI2sbkzCihPR0-uXqKTz37Dw2PbbUIhJpx2GoBZy8rvJ9n_RVhlsaCjdX-LMZFwlDeWasD-hRIThu6ffCy/s640/9043943634_1840fb8258_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself on a brilliant E5 called "The Raven". Photo- Ry Mchenry.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5Ja9zBahwrojv7SczSjvjE8fYeNu8NBeR7Vi5PsJEsEY-xdYBSkDFAj6qgp7YF2ZqUEuDUDsy_0-CnaVT4JI03GzGguLDFsVLCyNbW-qqQdlnp0KSBbGGM9bKfVPOWUvr3ZzwSC0BzhZ/s1024/9044058926_d07b1349de_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5Ja9zBahwrojv7SczSjvjE8fYeNu8NBeR7Vi5PsJEsEY-xdYBSkDFAj6qgp7YF2ZqUEuDUDsy_0-CnaVT4JI03GzGguLDFsVLCyNbW-qqQdlnp0KSBbGGM9bKfVPOWUvr3ZzwSC0BzhZ/s640/9044058926_d07b1349de_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was extremely damp and felt full on for the first morning! P</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hoto Ry Mchenry.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_4jJBJD8gM6j9eXmA9yKK5Ek8xeWH-ae0TfgywXFBR4yBFTUjne5TK7HCuNKWoGEnDv1-eUoSXUrCcZZJ2V9voLyk-xO9ZIN3Wfr_KRRH2JuX1YJ8IWnNf_M8mL3XEgQ8Py5CVlVzJen/s1600/P1080008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_4jJBJD8gM6j9eXmA9yKK5Ek8xeWH-ae0TfgywXFBR4yBFTUjne5TK7HCuNKWoGEnDv1-eUoSXUrCcZZJ2V9voLyk-xO9ZIN3Wfr_KRRH2JuX1YJ8IWnNf_M8mL3XEgQ8Py5CVlVzJen/s640/P1080008.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home on Pabbay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeAAq1xw_sASCSSfyGno8NBWIBA80v1ExdeRa6kTTzOW6gzLYja6REV0ZcEdfDq-WKRbgKP4PXtpN6QoqBMRaFZQY0qEZ5QksXiUGNxxrUiN5M0mmeGHb4NFcVXGTDTioVZE8jMtnwdclR/s1024/9041578488_396970ab19_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeAAq1xw_sASCSSfyGno8NBWIBA80v1ExdeRa6kTTzOW6gzLYja6REV0ZcEdfDq-WKRbgKP4PXtpN6QoqBMRaFZQY0qEZ5QksXiUGNxxrUiN5M0mmeGHb4NFcVXGTDTioVZE8jMtnwdclR/s640/9041578488_396970ab19_b.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner is caught.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8mamz1V2V9vs8PFOnmDFBXV9-AZ1OelQVPPqkoTZiU2hzhwz-dVwdSaqrhL8Uh8PtyjuYBmgANtYza8yY2paiCxFp7tJuv5zlg_wfi-EU3ItcptFl_-v8D_5twbSA_0YSVBI84CIZ5JM/s1600/P1070987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8mamz1V2V9vs8PFOnmDFBXV9-AZ1OelQVPPqkoTZiU2hzhwz-dVwdSaqrhL8Uh8PtyjuYBmgANtYza8yY2paiCxFp7tJuv5zlg_wfi-EU3ItcptFl_-v8D_5twbSA_0YSVBI84CIZ5JM/s640/P1070987.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike and Ry in disbelief of how good the pink walls are. Mingulay in the distance.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCeKrXGH-bLL9D1yKkosyo1ihiecqBTwvQYQOok1QEptO6ku1Q40yhoWE5QnTo9vsAbWjAFoW6_iqaNaE5t0W6EDGdj-NEPwWpGymdZcFCf-XLcj5r2bymKWTOyjmEPvC1fFN9GzcKgvt2/s1024/9041900155_5c93ed2e0c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCeKrXGH-bLL9D1yKkosyo1ihiecqBTwvQYQOok1QEptO6ku1Q40yhoWE5QnTo9vsAbWjAFoW6_iqaNaE5t0W6EDGdj-NEPwWpGymdZcFCf-XLcj5r2bymKWTOyjmEPvC1fFN9GzcKgvt2/s640/9041900155_5c93ed2e0c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stu, (in blue, top right), on "Prophecy of Drowning".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Pabbay was amazing. The highlight for myself was sitting on a ledge above the crux pitch of "Profundum Lacu", at about 10p.m, still hot enough to be in shorts with no t-shirt, having done one of the best rock pitches in the UK, with a basking shark circling below, and knowing we'll be doing the same again tomorow!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After 4 incredible days on Pabbay, Donald picked us up and took us to Mingulay, where we were to spend another 4 days.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNgZZe_3PysQGTJM5fq6PEGecfDtj4gP8pznqBDPw7oDz3KPIDYuEIy0Ed2b4Vf3dhf4c_A4fCHbNTbFottOvWqnY3l08vlYe3TMR1e7Psh0w2pCCLxc9gnmgt4qdzbGIkIYeAaArO65ij/s1600/P1080048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNgZZe_3PysQGTJM5fq6PEGecfDtj4gP8pznqBDPw7oDz3KPIDYuEIy0Ed2b4Vf3dhf4c_A4fCHbNTbFottOvWqnY3l08vlYe3TMR1e7Psh0w2pCCLxc9gnmgt4qdzbGIkIYeAaArO65ij/s640/P1080048.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The transfer to Mingulay arrives.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHAInI_wArWE5V4u-oJLAugmUJMx7LG1H9svj-xrCZ-rQ-iRBF1aiMKiWIj5mlMua68yGJ4TuqGzEV_Zw7XTPwnnt87aQkwxXpZSVYx_WuYX3q8aqYCdmLLZurc4fx43F7TDqJYCScMVZy/s1024/9043261949_e53d9d332c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHAInI_wArWE5V4u-oJLAugmUJMx7LG1H9svj-xrCZ-rQ-iRBF1aiMKiWIj5mlMua68yGJ4TuqGzEV_Zw7XTPwnnt87aQkwxXpZSVYx_WuYX3q8aqYCdmLLZurc4fx43F7TDqJYCScMVZy/s640/9043261949_e53d9d332c_b.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pedro crushing a fun E4.Photo- Ry Mchenry.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWElMMJbcmNLsKCVhj92DeZBGewnPNUkjwguCAawQtUzlqCiVpDJHhAoLXnGvQInYAlFgknNJjtkdNtjXzd9-5FgxdvogeBMxYwfM6Bi2Z9g_QkEu6iMaLNBURvv2JqR-J0FwEPKQjc9W/s1600/P1080067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWElMMJbcmNLsKCVhj92DeZBGewnPNUkjwguCAawQtUzlqCiVpDJHhAoLXnGvQInYAlFgknNJjtkdNtjXzd9-5FgxdvogeBMxYwfM6Bi2Z9g_QkEu6iMaLNBURvv2JqR-J0FwEPKQjc9W/s640/P1080067.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cliffs of Pabbay from Mingulay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvtA4qp0gfsPAXCjqeTFKQ2xaQea1NE4ueMGQenKM_UK1trHqoqWrT7nAfBY2JPWF79t9bhWqrEsg3wjv99Tthl6iLGHkmLWSl8hZjG_so6H9fd0oz24ExBM63B8wh3nnApAZeAXeVK1-/s1024/9041739276_c0c2c9639c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvtA4qp0gfsPAXCjqeTFKQ2xaQea1NE4ueMGQenKM_UK1trHqoqWrT7nAfBY2JPWF79t9bhWqrEsg3wjv99Tthl6iLGHkmLWSl8hZjG_so6H9fd0oz24ExBM63B8wh3nnApAZeAXeVK1-/s640/9041739276_c0c2c9639c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our beach on Mingulay. Photo- Ry Mchenry.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The ruined houses in the above photo are relics of past communities on Mingulay. Mingulay was inhabited as recently as 1912, and has evidence of permanent inhabitants for as long as 2000 years beforehand. When walking around the island it becomes strikingly apparent what a precarious existence it must have been, with dozens of families reliant on a handful of sheep, fishing in extremely dangerous seas and scaling cliffs to steal bird's eggs. This was proved on neighbouring Pabbay when all the men on the island died together in a fishing accident and the women and children were left with no choice but to move to Barra.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSUrcyYKh49HcHVpbfSyjuN2aJkar46OfaQR08_xL5h3Bt8C3AHY-eKz4YpCnCBmfgeUCGgfJhf1bPCDvQcoMystWphYoFrJDsjcHfAtBIM0q0aqHR_vwmvbHT5DgACDiCjucaarRqMi5/s1024/9043988231_be980567f8_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSUrcyYKh49HcHVpbfSyjuN2aJkar46OfaQR08_xL5h3Bt8C3AHY-eKz4YpCnCBmfgeUCGgfJhf1bPCDvQcoMystWphYoFrJDsjcHfAtBIM0q0aqHR_vwmvbHT5DgACDiCjucaarRqMi5/s640/9043988231_be980567f8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, Pedro and Sam on "Rory Rum The Story Man", Dun Mingulay. Photo-Ry Mchenry.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWbtUzzsuqxNyKoUL0w7s6qTeRKExyh07NSkVDts8DFVxhglNlf-dHRZWYGX__7hRH4LbJVWkb1Z1u2wfxJmGlRsDdnSmjuIeNaKowN3d8436bZ30hfvbkgI875rqN0cjeS6JCnDSLnzP/s1600/P1080087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWbtUzzsuqxNyKoUL0w7s6qTeRKExyh07NSkVDts8DFVxhglNlf-dHRZWYGX__7hRH4LbJVWkb1Z1u2wfxJmGlRsDdnSmjuIeNaKowN3d8436bZ30hfvbkgI875rqN0cjeS6JCnDSLnzP/s640/P1080087.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pedro following on "Ray of Light"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiif_FPm1ss0hvmAOfn5dF4jyc7694aQyhYiHyEqXtqE4q9p6gaACHKymukazK1GB2k2-iXI0cVO_ZH1vQ3xGQ1heqklLddTB2Ll-VqBKUUf0c0jTL1tnPq4s3mjUoFwDGCesthVBPhYueS/s1600/P1080096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiif_FPm1ss0hvmAOfn5dF4jyc7694aQyhYiHyEqXtqE4q9p6gaACHKymukazK1GB2k2-iXI0cVO_ZH1vQ3xGQ1heqklLddTB2Ll-VqBKUUf0c0jTL1tnPq4s3mjUoFwDGCesthVBPhYueS/s640/P1080096.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave and Stu beneath us on an E3.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMaLTMfeqWv-3kGFM4aEzBoetyhJ4HcHHK3TBJiKaBk53n1yFq8kDfY5woFqZDlQWpae1rYvy5d7Rwi7i0lPXSq9Kh7s_l5xjdpTE9DVINFz-fkayCoow7opzirOf6Yx3Kw7yXnnrgUpY/s1024/9045232460_20de9d045d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMaLTMfeqWv-3kGFM4aEzBoetyhJ4HcHHK3TBJiKaBk53n1yFq8kDfY5woFqZDlQWpae1rYvy5d7Rwi7i0lPXSq9Kh7s_l5xjdpTE9DVINFz-fkayCoow7opzirOf6Yx3Kw7yXnnrgUpY/s640/9045232460_20de9d045d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loading the boat to head home.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji52AjTDM7iGn7RCb0hb2eD1GOyGDLm_caS-vBcoOGpQJxSK9qtn8zMnmuITyh5YJpeHw6ZvVbFWKpmP9P0XCk0nKXp3rLT9ZQLPaKNbNIQLqj8DA5UzUAeL263Lh56UKAG9QsOt_Z-IU9/s1024/9042705735_0b5abf2a93_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji52AjTDM7iGn7RCb0hb2eD1GOyGDLm_caS-vBcoOGpQJxSK9qtn8zMnmuITyh5YJpeHw6ZvVbFWKpmP9P0XCk0nKXp3rLT9ZQLPaKNbNIQLqj8DA5UzUAeL263Lh56UKAG9QsOt_Z-IU9/s640/9042705735_0b5abf2a93_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You know its been good when you're sad to leave! Photo- Ry Mchenry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We were all genuinely sad to be leaving such a cool place, but to make us feel better, after 8 days of wall to wall sunshine, it started raining the second we got on the ferry back to Oban!</div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-82643313380774551262013-05-09T10:46:00.000-07:002013-05-09T13:01:23.254-07:00Haute RouteIn the last week of March i spent a very interesting 5 days shadowing swiss based IFMGA guide Terry Ralphs and 4 clients on the classic Chamonix-Zermatt Haute route. Although i've now finished the initial induction year and am a little further down the long road to becoming a guide, this was the first time in my life i've been with paying clients in the mountains (albeit me observing, and Terry guiding). For me a few myths were dispelled and i got a good glympse in to the world of Ski guiding, which for nearly all IFMGA guides is a bread-winning aspect of the profession, especially in the Spring months.<br />
<br />
For most the Haute route needs no introduction, a 120km long ski, up and down hill from Chamonix in France to Zermatt in Switzerland, covering over 8000 metres of ascent along the way. For many avid ski tourers its the "jewel in the crown" of Alpine tours.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjijgALZoNHYC9_aO-tmyRlxt0EzGYTZxwkpl5gWTWfg8gqXxGExt1Ma67HWFeIqAKDZva00QoCaRzO8VziX0Hdenpa40CScYpiYoqNIEnONVeS-9Uq3kl_CB3QzgpHqheYc7jz_50q8tZ2/s1600/GPS+trail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjijgALZoNHYC9_aO-tmyRlxt0EzGYTZxwkpl5gWTWfg8gqXxGExt1Ma67HWFeIqAKDZva00QoCaRzO8VziX0Hdenpa40CScYpiYoqNIEnONVeS-9Uq3kl_CB3QzgpHqheYc7jz_50q8tZ2/s320/GPS+trail.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a very high quality map i know, but gives some scale.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Despite bad weather on all but one day, and very high avalanche risk on all the days, we made it to Zermatt, and i was mega impressed when Terry made the call to bang out the last - crux - day when nearly everyone else was escaping to Arolla with a nasty forecast, commitment!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioxm2P6dZE1uDK9L_eFPijl302cHp6qVeO36UXiTjd4pJfwdYzF7nl8qkBpdAISBLn9rSkzmw2jd9zkxXc2h6ResPhRno7iQgK4tVkhaDnu9K4gcVoXyGR12Qd4CAutErmFWLxCtj-qDb5/s1600/579579_10151324263881691_1605617927_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioxm2P6dZE1uDK9L_eFPijl302cHp6qVeO36UXiTjd4pJfwdYzF7nl8qkBpdAISBLn9rSkzmw2jd9zkxXc2h6ResPhRno7iQgK4tVkhaDnu9K4gcVoXyGR12Qd4CAutErmFWLxCtj-qDb5/s320/579579_10151324263881691_1605617927_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everyone looking fresh at the start line. Simon, Mike, Paul, Camilla, Terry and myself. Photo: Camilla Nilsson. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6DLBLS0CA94vovc3v_oOEmoSbqqHF13VZ591TfkN4eutJBdcG2ntV1JFyR0yEBOlUMq0iasx2UGivtruyUrOcuYYnPxuYnvCYT4C1NX_74cZpxan-LKvqxBARb1lwg2CMQZLFsqheSP1/s1600/P1070755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6DLBLS0CA94vovc3v_oOEmoSbqqHF13VZ591TfkN4eutJBdcG2ntV1JFyR0yEBOlUMq0iasx2UGivtruyUrOcuYYnPxuYnvCYT4C1NX_74cZpxan-LKvqxBARb1lwg2CMQZLFsqheSP1/s320/P1070755.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reaching a Col on day three at sunrise.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyphenhyphenxVG1Gtee8ZRnntF7igx-aya8Pmzp0o8RWRt-E88kupJ0hPR9aRrRh6jIX7JvXTnY6A42k3PSSdqWPiaK3_Q1jqLDaDY_sKnTBWUu7iuJ72PDZjqB6AN2dRv9W136h1uuK27zGppVkl0/s1600/563823_10151324270121691_933159107_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyphenhyphenxVG1Gtee8ZRnntF7igx-aya8Pmzp0o8RWRt-E88kupJ0hPR9aRrRh6jIX7JvXTnY6A42k3PSSdqWPiaK3_Q1jqLDaDY_sKnTBWUu7iuJ72PDZjqB6AN2dRv9W136h1uuK27zGppVkl0/s320/563823_10151324270121691_933159107_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camilla Paul and myself.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qTeHrnHdsr2LrXVJeWYmavWP_NCBjLcNiPKan2vAOp26OIdlZt8A6S-ZijO_xTP7S6yUNMRVqBgNggiC3soutgnEcAdSh818UbFFdNiZT5LoFZq9j0dmvtOZaMbUsHgl3ttaQlG-EsQq/s1600/533972_10151324266426691_2032820496_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qTeHrnHdsr2LrXVJeWYmavWP_NCBjLcNiPKan2vAOp26OIdlZt8A6S-ZijO_xTP7S6yUNMRVqBgNggiC3soutgnEcAdSh818UbFFdNiZT5LoFZq9j0dmvtOZaMbUsHgl3ttaQlG-EsQq/s320/533972_10151324266426691_2032820496_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hut life. Photo: Camilla Nilsson.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
So myths dispelled...... Perhaps the part of the week i was most looking forward to was meeting the clients. I really wanted to know what kind of people go on long guided ski tours; what motivates them to go ski touring? what do they want to learn? how good a skiers are they? how fit are they? what do they do for the other 51 weeks of the year? But also i was really looking forward to seeing them out of their comfort zones, a little scared, completely knackered, having to dig deep and question whether they're enjoying it. Basically all the stuff which as commited climbers we accept as being fundamental parts of the "pleasure", but things which relative newcomers to the mountains may find offputting and unexpected.<br />
I think all my questions had been answered by the time we reached Zermatt after 5 days of poor weather and hard conditions.<br />
<br />
Experience? i worked out that all four of them had clipped in to bindings before i was born, but touring and mountain experience was lacking (although i should watch what i say as one of them had been up Everest!).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG1w86LuQx8b6Dyl2JYq_fLRpu7TT4tvJTUEfZ7sY8g444M_kZfANLQPDfF92-hGg8ayYlATNYMEHrsX5AFDs1flBu-AXYcdsRaswV8WS9E4ZXW5sUZdxK2XesN2OzshUcqBkVukAQ9xG0/s1600/484073_10151324300141691_80560460_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG1w86LuQx8b6Dyl2JYq_fLRpu7TT4tvJTUEfZ7sY8g444M_kZfANLQPDfF92-hGg8ayYlATNYMEHrsX5AFDs1flBu-AXYcdsRaswV8WS9E4ZXW5sUZdxK2XesN2OzshUcqBkVukAQ9xG0/s320/484073_10151324300141691_80560460_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
How fit? i was very impressed by the fitness of our clients, they were consistently solid at a pace which although slow, was in my opinion impressive when you only do it one week a year. However, any time gained through fitness was rapidly cancelled out by faff, never underestimate the faff factor!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheL5EFB_WMyG66q-CPCWUhCiy_c21dUGRCJup69AfDlodNJRyJig2cO3smvBb2rPkBIDLMBpVz6k49lKyGpjjMhC2Fp3BlqgCMa4wmRLu07y0zGy-a9Z_UDU5s5M5xjbT6Wh-rHV21UeV/s1600/537137_10151324263826691_1417596131_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheL5EFB_WMyG66q-CPCWUhCiy_c21dUGRCJup69AfDlodNJRyJig2cO3smvBb2rPkBIDLMBpVz6k49lKyGpjjMhC2Fp3BlqgCMa4wmRLu07y0zGy-a9Z_UDU5s5M5xjbT6Wh-rHV21UeV/s320/537137_10151324263826691_1417596131_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rope out for a tricky section. Photo: Simon Pickles.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
What do they want to learn? This i found fascinating. At one point a client told me that he had got annoyed when a guide in the past had tried to teach him some skills, "Why?" i replied with confused interest, "i don't want to learn how to do it, that's why i pay a guide!" he replied. In the past i always thought that this kind of attitude would annoy me, but i actually think its kinda cool. He doesn't want to give up the time to learn to be self sufficient, nor does he feel the experience would be worth anything more if he was, therefore why bother? simple, and i can respect that.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUwfOqoOy7WQcEBvzHHH5u2ZLc6GUrR8WzK2jZ-FJYx1A_X3cb8f4Qz-w0iEOaUkUfLKw_cIgRQVu0uUHO5QdA9wGddFNJS7toK6Y5r1-43IpcWzlMnEHqGb2uXRFH0OBBd0XI7Q6d4c5/s1600/P1070758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUwfOqoOy7WQcEBvzHHH5u2ZLc6GUrR8WzK2jZ-FJYx1A_X3cb8f4Qz-w0iEOaUkUfLKw_cIgRQVu0uUHO5QdA9wGddFNJS7toK6Y5r1-43IpcWzlMnEHqGb2uXRFH0OBBd0XI7Q6d4c5/s320/P1070758.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camilla de-skinning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Did they suffer? Yes and no. Not half as much as i thought they may have given the bad weather, but battling a strong head wind in a blizzard on the Glacier du Tour took its toll, and everyone looked very battered by the time we rolled in to the Trient hut.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tZmmqo-JCuYiw0YBAQsCVFXe988RLBd4SgNzyJFdUpcPP4ooHlWMS8X80IKfd5TIzXIkqa9AbY4t4kyGez7R7baJQQcgJJDJvcQExZrusipE6-qLdZXCBITHo1YBdtHdLCEndSc2sg5R/s1600/P1070752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tZmmqo-JCuYiw0YBAQsCVFXe988RLBd4SgNzyJFdUpcPP4ooHlWMS8X80IKfd5TIzXIkqa9AbY4t4kyGez7R7baJQQcgJJDJvcQExZrusipE6-qLdZXCBITHo1YBdtHdLCEndSc2sg5R/s320/P1070752.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nasty weather on all but 1 of the days.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Did they get scared? Interestingly not half as much as i was expecting. I think being completely inexperienced in the mountains means you haven't yet developed your danger sensors. So at times when i would have seriously loud alarm bells ringing in my head, a client could still be plodding away in their bubble of blissful ignorance, a bubble that they have rightfully earned by employing a guide.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_n9Hvh3RGoFoRm2FygjNIeHWzHbdHq7TUITNUqnbAYBMVKL7y5oNwIjSRCPXGurAIXAYtedzNLtvzGPZHv-_pNBpSxLqfk_y1mlxOFjj_J6uGBdHnWBYkPq5-PLj5lugakIXu2jGm6g5/s1600/388581_10151324265016691_1547592929_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_n9Hvh3RGoFoRm2FygjNIeHWzHbdHq7TUITNUqnbAYBMVKL7y5oNwIjSRCPXGurAIXAYtedzNLtvzGPZHv-_pNBpSxLqfk_y1mlxOFjj_J6uGBdHnWBYkPq5-PLj5lugakIXu2jGm6g5/s320/388581_10151324265016691_1547592929_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul, Camilla, Simon, Mike and myself on the summit of the Rosablanche 3336m.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
All in all it was a very positive week, which ended with me feeling more psyched than ever for the future. Thanks Terry for having me along and thanks Camilla, Paul, Simon and Mike for being a chilled set of clients who put up with my endless talking about climbing...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuYNslOQY3jRqpUiakIcnMUVKcqla9PkMA7dAUt6kmFDRNzJzvPf-ccAWSyfzyBYCyc1M_qOA0pngJHLAwolEfi5H85odvmda_XmUIzZEV66juCYiUT0q7DoQg0XrsQUgsfGDtVTCACrB/s1600/527066_10151324264776691_1967865925_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuYNslOQY3jRqpUiakIcnMUVKcqla9PkMA7dAUt6kmFDRNzJzvPf-ccAWSyfzyBYCyc1M_qOA0pngJHLAwolEfi5H85odvmda_XmUIzZEV66juCYiUT0q7DoQg0XrsQUgsfGDtVTCACrB/s320/527066_10151324264776691_1967865925_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terry relaxing in Zermatt after a hard week.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Its been a weird winter for me, it feels like i haven't really achieved anything in the 8 months since getting back from Pakistan. All i've been doing is jumping through hoops and earning the money to allow me to do so. I just keep telling myself that if this year goes smoothly then that'll be it, i'll be an "aspirant" (meaning i can work in the alps and the end is in sight), and i can be back to being cold, scared and hungry on amazing mountains in crazy places, can't wait!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-51377752738555865482013-02-18T11:51:00.000-08:002013-02-18T11:51:52.947-08:00JanuaryThe first 5 weeks of 2013 were for me a good mix of hot and cold, work and play. After arriving in Chamonix in time to spend new year dancing to the early hours in the Roue de Moulin, i started 15 days of back to back guides courses between France and Switzerland. All were well run, and required some concentration of the sort i haven't had to use since.... well i was about to say school, but i don't think i ever did much at school, so maybe EVER.<br />
<br />
So after 3 days being beasted on the ski's by Swiss ski-wad Alex Langeutin in Leysin, 5 days digging snow profiles and studying them in the classroom with Per As and Steve Jones in La Grave, and several other days in Chamonix and Arolla covering stuff in-between, it was about time i went climbing rather than talking about how potentially dangerous it is.<br />
I had some plans in the Mountains, but the weather wasn't playing ball, then i had some plans on the ice with my friend Michi, but the temps weren't playing ball either, so i went for my plan C (which was actually my plan A, i'm just too weak to admit it...) and go hook up with some friends who were being sensible and spending their winter climbing steep limestone in the sport climbing mecca that is Catalunya, in northern Spain.<br />
<br />
Here's some pictures<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIfuRy4kU61Tj9QI4BBskPtprMU1UcbGlECT9_AxHGR6DHCp91SCrf67RHgoh6oNJ-7PiLhep8ShInS2RUqYeJzuRTmVgYue0dFyfQTKhUkBxKe1rvb8IVNsdiBPtVXaLLV-oP1giPCcay/s1600/1020PC303695.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIfuRy4kU61Tj9QI4BBskPtprMU1UcbGlECT9_AxHGR6DHCp91SCrf67RHgoh6oNJ-7PiLhep8ShInS2RUqYeJzuRTmVgYue0dFyfQTKhUkBxKe1rvb8IVNsdiBPtVXaLLV-oP1giPCcay/s320/1020PC303695.jpg" uea="true" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before the courses started i did manage a route with Dougal and Jon. "Encore une Fois" on the Argentiere Rive Droite, still awaits an entirely free ascent?? Myself on the first pitch.<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjP7cD9__1LFdb1llRKHM_sb23ZDjcbj6AAyrzMZDPzSj1MtmoLlTrNjVnBH76m8sT_9sprll-RwgFa-JFhEx0GeE61AgYrT40AhiqclnQBk6gU5OgaoUaMT8tGT1M8-PNJhW5z3zLCyr8/s1600/P1070687.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjP7cD9__1LFdb1llRKHM_sb23ZDjcbj6AAyrzMZDPzSj1MtmoLlTrNjVnBH76m8sT_9sprll-RwgFa-JFhEx0GeE61AgYrT40AhiqclnQBk6gU5OgaoUaMT8tGT1M8-PNJhW5z3zLCyr8/s320/P1070687.jpg" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swedish guide-trainer Per As takes some measurements.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jfQ61NeUBHWCz2s_8invDpetyl0raE0Mn7fFYFgNQm38Vv3gvWIxH8uxgqFUwecEQlk2clmjLX9-bLzXmJuWstkZsFSohSFQMAfjVSr6CMqqaSJ960xwc4i1UbNmucePovuIJD9TbPmU/s1600/P1070704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jfQ61NeUBHWCz2s_8invDpetyl0raE0Mn7fFYFgNQm38Vv3gvWIxH8uxgqFUwecEQlk2clmjLX9-bLzXmJuWstkZsFSohSFQMAfjVSr6CMqqaSJ960xwc4i1UbNmucePovuIJD9TbPmU/s320/P1070704.JPG" uea="true" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow profile record.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv_RxW7xq4VxUIbn6_DD5TSoGU5xj3Vozd-R4Wc7bLwZSiEnNwsDfM-fcgLZ9nCpXknVEPXTb0Gt0S4CfRWO2SFzdZcDuatMVtqAlVPQ5DZ6FljksS2rg6fomP-rAFlLFZIVz3mWB8mCb/s1600/64266_10152441292730545_522375890_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv_RxW7xq4VxUIbn6_DD5TSoGU5xj3Vozd-R4Wc7bLwZSiEnNwsDfM-fcgLZ9nCpXknVEPXTb0Gt0S4CfRWO2SFzdZcDuatMVtqAlVPQ5DZ6FljksS2rg6fomP-rAFlLFZIVz3mWB8mCb/s320/64266_10152441292730545_522375890_n.jpg" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skiing like a Giraffe with broken legs, through breakable crust on the Grande Envers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4_-6_0XpEW328KbbMvGqzUlQQC8UbvrUfT4ejryaqkGtMXAcfwf9-EpcGM6k1iONvyYvNrv7duGWVIPEWISg6xMzKubjOPYYcd6zurvNYMMqOmaW6yqVpf8luI5BoD2HBaNP-I7B8UN_/s1600/P1070716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4_-6_0XpEW328KbbMvGqzUlQQC8UbvrUfT4ejryaqkGtMXAcfwf9-EpcGM6k1iONvyYvNrv7duGWVIPEWISg6xMzKubjOPYYcd6zurvNYMMqOmaW6yqVpf8luI5BoD2HBaNP-I7B8UN_/s320/P1070716.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masriudoms - Amazing crag where we spent nearly 10 days.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEuNYsy-4oL2mAIjOwNw6aOjnkcuyRqs_aVT0fsI5foBBsGPdWyb8dk0-QEE8QLsgZnxLne1VGy5NNAuplIyiBIxsyFhmVaGzADmn6ggaNW_zJMwKIkXUkdIUP6oVmjDLKhFIyDvJnwEew/s1600/P1070708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEuNYsy-4oL2mAIjOwNw6aOjnkcuyRqs_aVT0fsI5foBBsGPdWyb8dk0-QEE8QLsgZnxLne1VGy5NNAuplIyiBIxsyFhmVaGzADmn6ggaNW_zJMwKIkXUkdIUP6oVmjDLKhFIyDvJnwEew/s320/P1070708.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hazel cruising an 8a+.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNKlGehy4Ua0dtSb2AF2x4FgjzFJtT6LNVqWS674tJz_7IcLMFg7KCErpLME0KnQcHLqdxLU78LZRilfTkp5u_u2pAErzurAP5lLuMN0CNKCiYvOn3IHVwvXB-4anhQC12ODC_wxfq-_V/s1600/P1070724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNKlGehy4Ua0dtSb2AF2x4FgjzFJtT6LNVqWS674tJz_7IcLMFg7KCErpLME0KnQcHLqdxLU78LZRilfTkp5u_u2pAErzurAP5lLuMN0CNKCiYvOn3IHVwvXB-4anhQC12ODC_wxfq-_V/s320/P1070724.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete, Hazel, Howard and my awesome van.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIjITzUSrIEf49EMr2ZXh5cpFqm77sNzSwzQ-fEhzU3SSeRCtF6962xInxMmn1jlamF92f8LzngzTmFzJAMBWcrQ7Ve1Xtby_JFkdj60bijvvA5C0iP8YZOhDk9Eqyv8Nv0FBmdhfd-9n/s1600/P1070713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIjITzUSrIEf49EMr2ZXh5cpFqm77sNzSwzQ-fEhzU3SSeRCtF6962xInxMmn1jlamF92f8LzngzTmFzJAMBWcrQ7Ve1Xtby_JFkdj60bijvvA5C0iP8YZOhDk9Eqyv8Nv0FBmdhfd-9n/s320/P1070713.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamey on an 8a.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcL0llLauFwG5_FekIzYnIpcAhbb9XyKjc1TnVA1lNMWtaZjDTVN5StJwK27VwKfVSDywew_uY8_J82pKPcEhipstmYOyNSMJ9YAostG3_ZcaQncA3z_-3Nzv72ZpyNb2dB9z8xv99DKn/s1600/P1070719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcL0llLauFwG5_FekIzYnIpcAhbb9XyKjc1TnVA1lNMWtaZjDTVN5StJwK27VwKfVSDywew_uY8_J82pKPcEhipstmYOyNSMJ9YAostG3_ZcaQncA3z_-3Nzv72ZpyNb2dB9z8xv99DKn/s320/P1070719.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Howard crushing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My plan for Catalunya was to get mileage, then hopefully come April after more time on the woody i may scrape myself up some harder sport. I didn't really try anything hard, but managed a few 7c's all 2nd go, and onsited 7b, which bodes well considering its January! Psyched for a summer of rock.<br />
<br />
After a very long - almost single push - drive back from Spain, i immediately started working again and will do until i next have to be down in the Alps in March. This is what 2013 is going to be like for me, lots of stints of guides scheme work with time inbetween spent here in Cumbria.Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-49771404278936742202013-01-28T12:14:00.002-08:002013-01-28T12:14:18.963-08:00Talk in Stirling Next ThursdayNext Thursday (the7th) i'll be talking for the "Ochils Mountaineering Club" in Stirling. If you're nearby get yourself along to hear about big scary experiences on mountains around the world, should be a good night!<br />
<br />
<strong style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-family: Calibri;">Stirling County Rugby Football Club in Bridgehaugh, Stirling, FK9 5AP, 8p.m. start</span></strong><br />
<strong style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></strong>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYiGTwKaWcr4G1AiXYeeRPCEKs85aNU-HGibJp0vrvcZv4LMzCfkbBPCzwWrTjRCqsazVD-rpPXijv-9otp2aTyHWaCiqqw7ntjPwAp3ohcjev-oyJqzz-zO2fo81KMum7q4Yr3HhQayC1/s1600/P1000564.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYiGTwKaWcr4G1AiXYeeRPCEKs85aNU-HGibJp0vrvcZv4LMzCfkbBPCzwWrTjRCqsazVD-rpPXijv-9otp2aTyHWaCiqqw7ntjPwAp3ohcjev-oyJqzz-zO2fo81KMum7q4Yr3HhQayC1/s640/P1000564.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<strong style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></strong>Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-61117802583619563042012-12-27T10:41:00.000-08:002012-12-27T12:16:34.187-08:00Time to head offWell here i am at the end of a stint of pretty much none-stop work. I guess the most depressing thing about work stints is how you can look back and say you achieved close to nothing in that time. But they have their purposes, and after returning from Pakistan in October with a fair bit of debt hanging round my neck i can leave for Chamonix on Friday debt-free, in my new van, and with a little bit of cash to use before the credit card comes out again!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh66AYGArxz-gMTSouVmcr8DKMKmzrHFg68Jz5ldTkGOto6iTmI1wcvIbZtFL99WKqpYLPqTii45K9Do-pVBwfXFa_hxfXwy283FlfX8MIRAmx43tnh-UNOamFmYAJTeOQHUgNJcTz_dXd9/s1600/P1070629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" eea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh66AYGArxz-gMTSouVmcr8DKMKmzrHFg68Jz5ldTkGOto6iTmI1wcvIbZtFL99WKqpYLPqTii45K9Do-pVBwfXFa_hxfXwy283FlfX8MIRAmx43tnh-UNOamFmYAJTeOQHUgNJcTz_dXd9/s320/P1070629.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early stages of the new woody - a lot of time has been spent hanging off this recently.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
For the first 14 or so days of January i have back to back courses for the Guides scheme in France and Switzerland. A mixture of climbing and skiing with a lot of listening and learning will make a good change from milking and feeding cows all day, and i'm really looking forward to it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7i_m5Ih9lCZWg_vvUIgd0QomgLsVPJk8UGt6XMwUH5MJYwsBaZKZ2TdMcDvqk-588Bz1NlTBCaNa_seZq3ChMJakgvsSGAIQgLQcR4mH8RKSQfC9OSQMLXGBzIIn1ZuIq0i8_HjxuXNg/s1600/P1070662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" eea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7i_m5Ih9lCZWg_vvUIgd0QomgLsVPJk8UGt6XMwUH5MJYwsBaZKZ2TdMcDvqk-588Bz1NlTBCaNa_seZq3ChMJakgvsSGAIQgLQcR4mH8RKSQfC9OSQMLXGBzIIn1ZuIq0i8_HjxuXNg/s320/P1070662.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something new and tricky on Scafell, unfinished business.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJLw_Sa28ygp8_Ed056TqjUaQUAks6Zg2gmNdyPAaUwPFqTdtML6OKAN9LOizgmcg6ABKg1cUf9KUHERK9F9GxSgoFVuwXeDst-dDBU-b3Qwbj_x5hn-OTnf94ZVgDdTkcwGo9t-N_xFq/s1600/399366_10100373940652341_1261144571_n%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" eea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJLw_Sa28ygp8_Ed056TqjUaQUAks6Zg2gmNdyPAaUwPFqTdtML6OKAN9LOizgmcg6ABKg1cUf9KUHERK9F9GxSgoFVuwXeDst-dDBU-b3Qwbj_x5hn-OTnf94ZVgDdTkcwGo9t-N_xFq/s320/399366_10100373940652341_1261144571_n%255B1%255D.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retrieving gear after a very near disastrous attempt on the summer E2 "Scansor" on Stob Coire nan Lochain, with Greg Boswell and Adam Russell in early December.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Hopefully from mid January onwards i'll get some climbing done for myself - depending on how cold and snowy this January in the Alps turns out to be - before returning to Cumbria for some more work before February.Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-76043980346725942022012-11-13T13:46:00.000-08:002012-11-13T13:46:07.040-08:00TalksHere are the details of some talks I'll be doing in the next few months. If you're anywhere near at the time make sure you come along!<br />
<u>20th November</u><br />
<br />
This talk, "The Alps and Beyond" for the Lancashire Caving and Climbing Club will be roughly an hour and a half long, probably with a small break. Famous and not-so-famous routes on the N faces of the Alps, from classics like the Eiger North face to obscure testpieces on the North face of the Grandes Jorasses will be covered. This will lead in to accounts of scary times on big mountains in places such as Alaska, Patagonia and the Karakorum. <br />
<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<strong>Location- </strong><span style="font-family: Cambria;"><strong>Bradshaw Conservative Club. 77 Lea Gate Bolton BL2 3ET</strong></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27ltovYVE9KwRGn1Lrgdm-SNHREwzwsGSLfH5Q5PkXPDkToGbWq0s3EDVZoInbFpAoR7QDSWzk3b1qg8CPZqFbZb7fqIys-Eij_mebc_q7VTqNTsFBEbDPFqhvwglT6ZaNqBk8Zdy7fow/s1600/P1070295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27ltovYVE9KwRGn1Lrgdm-SNHREwzwsGSLfH5Q5PkXPDkToGbWq0s3EDVZoInbFpAoR7QDSWzk3b1qg8CPZqFbZb7fqIys-Eij_mebc_q7VTqNTsFBEbDPFqhvwglT6ZaNqBk8Zdy7fow/s320/P1070295.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /><br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<u>1st December</u></div>
<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
As the evening entertainment on the night of the STS drytooling final at Glenmore Lodge, I'll be doing a talk entitled "High and Dry". The talk will be about mixed climbing on big cold faces of mountains all over the world, and how skills learnt in drytooling can be transferable to pitches on long hard alpine routes. Really its an excuse to show loads of gobsmacking photos of incredible routes and get everyone psyched for the large and the cold! </div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<strong>8 o clock start (ish)</strong></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4a1_rXzsS9vKHhhs1NnPdr8RKukZyQ8-7rmMvoYC8d9YYPKpbLybL8zyTpjVQhzv2pawL4NGR8N8ww8FZ86VSQ0vrKB1a7eKLdA762pmDrzpA0VGRTC7WwF4z5rhjkyQyCem9gjmvauuB/s1600/HIGH+AND+DRY+-+GLENMORE+POSTER+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4a1_rXzsS9vKHhhs1NnPdr8RKukZyQ8-7rmMvoYC8d9YYPKpbLybL8zyTpjVQhzv2pawL4NGR8N8ww8FZ86VSQ0vrKB1a7eKLdA762pmDrzpA0VGRTC7WwF4z5rhjkyQyCem9gjmvauuB/s320/HIGH+AND+DRY+-+GLENMORE+POSTER+copy.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<u>7th February</u></div>
<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
For the Ochils Mountaineering Club in Stirling, this will be along the same lines as the talk in Bolton in November. "The Alps and Beyond" will hopefully inspire, or make you appreciate your warm bed at home in equal measure!</div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<br /></div>
<strong>Location - <span style="font-family: Calibri;">Stirling County Rugby Football Club in Bridgehaugh, Stirling, FK9 5AP, 8p.m. start.</span></strong><br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPDHoekPbOouNQPqNSoJ8uizODzBTBLfx-iyButxb0Sdxrv7e0xDLeQZOazb-u3tMUW_99aHWLw_lBcDH3ViLIBQQjzNsQheVY9r96IeOe7bSIVYm3HozxPwmVeFhq9IiFd9AsgMoNRwAW/s1600/P1010186edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPDHoekPbOouNQPqNSoJ8uizODzBTBLfx-iyButxb0Sdxrv7e0xDLeQZOazb-u3tMUW_99aHWLw_lBcDH3ViLIBQQjzNsQheVY9r96IeOe7bSIVYm3HozxPwmVeFhq9IiFd9AsgMoNRwAW/s320/P1010186edit.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">
Please email me if you have a question.</div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-62351176518617926302012-10-15T06:15:00.003-07:002012-10-15T10:58:25.337-07:00PakistanAlthough i landed in London on the 23rd September, it seems like i'm only just getting myself sorted after what seemed like a mammoth trip to Pakistan. After a long trip i usually find i can unpack my bags in about three days if i'm motivated (really lazy i know), but i'm now on day 17 back in the country, and there's still some unpacked hold-alls on my bedroom floor. Almost straight off the plane from Islamabad, i spent 5 days in N Wales on a BMG induction course, which although interesting and a good few days, has prolonged my resettlement time...<br />
The expedition was a mixture of frustration and satisfaction, as they always are. A trip of two halfs would be an accurate summary; the first half full of good weather and climbing, the second half being full of bad weather, tension and frustration. However, as this report will illustrate, a lot of climbing was done, perhaps even more than we had expected.<br />
<br />
It was on the 3rd August that i got on the train to head down to London. Its funny, but sometimes i think that the transition from West Cumbria to the leafy, red bricked terraces of south west London is a bigger shock to the system than that of Heathrow to Islamabad. Sitting in a pub that night, Jon and I talked about the last couple of months: I had been at my parent's home in St.Bees, working a lot and training and climbing when i could. Jon had had an extremely active and productive summer for both work and play, and as he told me stories of racing up Europe's largest alpine route in a single-push, and hanging out of helicopters filming base jumpers rocket past the Eiger, i was feeling a little hungry for adventure. Not for the first time sat in that pub in Fulham, i started to wonder what the next 7 weeks would bring.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0JOd7PmrQT-XqzIBYFiv3hDkJJZc4BzMhVIETUKwcKRhcyFvtMUt7sV-wSwIpnJdN35xaQkC4TkJWgieoZWgenBMavbb1RrTU5kItIy23hcbXNeBYxgz5njbyfQ0bqJ1gTRd1rte4477/s1600/P8070202+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0JOd7PmrQT-XqzIBYFiv3hDkJJZc4BzMhVIETUKwcKRhcyFvtMUt7sV-wSwIpnJdN35xaQkC4TkJWgieoZWgenBMavbb1RrTU5kItIy23hcbXNeBYxgz5njbyfQ0bqJ1gTRd1rte4477/s320/P8070202+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A massive Mosque in Islamabad.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
Our journey to base camp went more smoothly than either of us could ever have imagined. Flights took off when they were meant to, the jeeps didn't break down, the weather was kind, and our porters worked hard and without fuss.<br />
After a day in Islamabad - the highlight being our air conditioned hotel - we flew to Skardu and got our first sight of Baltistan. Unlike further East in the Himalaya, the Karakorum is very dry and not "jungly" like you imagine the lower valleys in India and Nepal. All settlements are perched on fertile, green, irrigated plateaus on the banks of rivers. Some of these are pretty spectacular and look Tolkienesque. Skardu, where we spent a day before travelling further in to the mountains, is a dusty small town, where the smell of two-stroke oil and soundtrack of beeping horns create an atmosphere of excitement as you try and work out what is for sale and what is just junk lying around.<br />
The 6 hour jeep ride to Hushe was one of those journeys that you don't want to blink on. Here's some photos-</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MIASn8tdMWI6hQeyd8uQhTSIXcQa1Jw-KM6qKXyTNndHZ2l8Xmha0BD9wUjJXznZ3qWKD43UhY3IGETeabiGbhNkZkUgmy39B_qUedSxGCUGQjSMLgPnHarXxUEQncjlTYIYIoNznrPT/s1600/P1070128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MIASn8tdMWI6hQeyd8uQhTSIXcQa1Jw-KM6qKXyTNndHZ2l8Xmha0BD9wUjJXznZ3qWKD43UhY3IGETeabiGbhNkZkUgmy39B_qUedSxGCUGQjSMLgPnHarXxUEQncjlTYIYIoNznrPT/s320/P1070128.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a hot and tiring day in Islamabad, we were excited to see Nanga Parbat from the flight to Skardu. The Mazeno ridge is on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy329qSWiCWiLwTQyjKG-WAIIsAmmqx4Hm-SA8sPMujOcLqe_7MWD4kTerXGCE0zcVw9MNMzw-7UdH7Kpm8ngnfhEMMNIK7NLcq6VmXZ4wxx5rPvkD27LcRIoAQeNGrQtArh0SQw0hARTO/s1600/P8080283+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy329qSWiCWiLwTQyjKG-WAIIsAmmqx4Hm-SA8sPMujOcLqe_7MWD4kTerXGCE0zcVw9MNMzw-7UdH7Kpm8ngnfhEMMNIK7NLcq6VmXZ4wxx5rPvkD27LcRIoAQeNGrQtArh0SQw0hARTO/s320/P8080283+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Indus River.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlDGrOLU3HJZqVZ9ee0_t3vtDwrGzm2X5Yoi2O2tmvo8tdLZqArZAxVkAqGZ9WQAFNgGbOlVQupNNXrFBjSXy69ypR-3LlJ_J2C_K7I3vw_wxieo7Ks8ijEtl0xjSqGWTCgpdPSYHxSha/s1600/P1070151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlDGrOLU3HJZqVZ9ee0_t3vtDwrGzm2X5Yoi2O2tmvo8tdLZqArZAxVkAqGZ9WQAFNgGbOlVQupNNXrFBjSXy69ypR-3LlJ_J2C_K7I3vw_wxieo7Ks8ijEtl0xjSqGWTCgpdPSYHxSha/s320/P1070151.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loading the jeeps with kit for the journey to Hushe.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6p9XJTUrsBpax0WAmvMb6ypPvDFTgZNc8O5E6-khEw2RvS8NfqSeiuCbj3iRpt9j1lNZiIh4LQLIKDbjb4-1CoVnk_Dl3xD1eucADnsNUZdlPCkMBoYj4JeVj0qPI1bPoR_K-6kImgCwd/s1600/P1070139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6p9XJTUrsBpax0WAmvMb6ypPvDFTgZNc8O5E6-khEw2RvS8NfqSeiuCbj3iRpt9j1lNZiIh4LQLIKDbjb4-1CoVnk_Dl3xD1eucADnsNUZdlPCkMBoYj4JeVj0qPI1bPoR_K-6kImgCwd/s320/P1070139.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the banks of a tributary to the Indus.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuz5d9B9K5m7R2YvLaqTn342S2ncqhxNTZKtHqUBEhYAYZIQP3l_55HsjaUKjQJhhNXJVDazw8YuHdH55FBKYo2lZB32WtRSvzFtH1ADHitkmPKgkpY6vUdi3RSgQhjdNUIR9djaN74EyU/s1600/P1070154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuz5d9B9K5m7R2YvLaqTn342S2ncqhxNTZKtHqUBEhYAYZIQP3l_55HsjaUKjQJhhNXJVDazw8YuHdH55FBKYo2lZB32WtRSvzFtH1ADHitkmPKgkpY6vUdi3RSgQhjdNUIR9djaN74EyU/s320/P1070154.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The reason the journey went so smoothly - Haji Ghulamm Muhammad - the man to know in Skardu.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREAXTlIbWpvI0MtGOrfntIdKNNJ5sEqGaOFRzegVQvdXuFWQwdfbcsAZr3ZK0OPJofB_3Q_Qd3lsS_w3bi4uZ5XVm-7rcSPxApMyFGhyphenhyphenm3JQW4tMjqJTIGHKvKi_Kgj698MnR-NA4vas3/s1600/P8090370+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREAXTlIbWpvI0MtGOrfntIdKNNJ5sEqGaOFRzegVQvdXuFWQwdfbcsAZr3ZK0OPJofB_3Q_Qd3lsS_w3bi4uZ5XVm-7rcSPxApMyFGhyphenhyphenm3JQW4tMjqJTIGHKvKi_Kgj698MnR-NA4vas3/s320/P8090370+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and our Liason Officer, Major Akhtar Hussein of the Pakistani army. Akhtar took time off from fighting the Indians in Kashmir to come and make sure we weren't there under false pretences....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2EGC1VxdGfA5MgpG89kIp24hfrr9OBqp1tkYqXvMLlBPPFA-ZHzJJsa-igoi-Q0QbUxhGjPetcz1IswkJ80RFplMA_UmYDvHuRrkYskPJ9wz5xohre0FHm5Dh2xGE4sy8Yj1m942u8cL/s1600/P1070210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2EGC1VxdGfA5MgpG89kIp24hfrr9OBqp1tkYqXvMLlBPPFA-ZHzJJsa-igoi-Q0QbUxhGjPetcz1IswkJ80RFplMA_UmYDvHuRrkYskPJ9wz5xohre0FHm5Dh2xGE4sy8Yj1m942u8cL/s320/P1070210.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical Balti village.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAptgLW1pMa-iUW-qyu9_GcPIfLP6GHbmvV9uwbSs9YuV01VX1C1PHOyWBWhDyswBXvSD4nLz-Iu3Ajg78DvSRsRVttA6VQ9RaajxNgCrD3_ATzrbQTwedIoauFLIRflV3ihARz0Bed6y/s1600/P8090520+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAptgLW1pMa-iUW-qyu9_GcPIfLP6GHbmvV9uwbSs9YuV01VX1C1PHOyWBWhDyswBXvSD4nLz-Iu3Ajg78DvSRsRVttA6VQ9RaajxNgCrD3_ATzrbQTwedIoauFLIRflV3ihARz0Bed6y/s400/P8090520+copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hushe valley.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDvaLfSZMUen1apDKMJsAsJfZxqUOUcPPNaZ2TEtx2QnGs3hbEIxZBEkkTh0h2eQRRaykT1NeRgyCveahdFH4S4R9ISyW48xj6e-aD9_0HtAuwaaalRO-WPIp5bS6c5tca6ECwiUS-jYc/s1600/P8100599+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDvaLfSZMUen1apDKMJsAsJfZxqUOUcPPNaZ2TEtx2QnGs3hbEIxZBEkkTh0h2eQRRaykT1NeRgyCveahdFH4S4R9ISyW48xj6e-aD9_0HtAuwaaalRO-WPIp5bS6c5tca6ECwiUS-jYc/s400/P8100599+copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the first day of the walk in.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSJA3x-4brpdJe_fAZ_pQiWSwiMnRpCxy9WNUDSN1BnhyphenhyphenyUI5VOR1Ro1VJgVTeNg6wQQeuoW4FpVIJ3pPryFWDI2pErzE0i9GcsaGZKxXASOBEnLSRzrK_3mwk2Yj9Ouqs1OSq060Is62/s1600/P1070432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSJA3x-4brpdJe_fAZ_pQiWSwiMnRpCxy9WNUDSN1BnhyphenhyphenyUI5VOR1Ro1VJgVTeNg6wQQeuoW4FpVIJ3pPryFWDI2pErzE0i9GcsaGZKxXASOBEnLSRzrK_3mwk2Yj9Ouqs1OSq060Is62/s320/P1070432.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At basecamp.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At basecamp, we were pleased to meet up with Jesse, Shingo and Aaron, three Americans we'd be sharing a basecamp with for the next month. Like most Americans, they were good fun, and didn't mind having the piss taken out of them, even if they didn't understand our sense of humour.<br />
<br />
Also at basecamp were Ali and Ali, who were mine and Jon's cooks, and Fida and Abas, who cooked for the Americans. These four were great company, and over the weeks i learnt a lot about Islamic culture, which coming from a place in the UK where there are no Muslims was all new to me.<br />
In many ways the Ali's made the trip, and in more ways than making us nice food.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br />
<br />
<strong><u>Nayser Brakk</u></strong></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSAJEBNDjW6PeB2_6ieTVD4I6Av7sf5Kw7puE531RKZ86GM2YZ13NrDwkH6TebK2qMRzWrfmXiUj7FrWBGEAhKLcGt7m2BDBuAIWx-x_NYYjNee5sMf9gd8SfSAYpwFDdWUdRNaPdqgzRK/s1600/P1070447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSAJEBNDjW6PeB2_6ieTVD4I6Av7sf5Kw7puE531RKZ86GM2YZ13NrDwkH6TebK2qMRzWrfmXiUj7FrWBGEAhKLcGt7m2BDBuAIWx-x_NYYjNee5sMf9gd8SfSAYpwFDdWUdRNaPdqgzRK/s320/P1070447.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: center;">The immense Nayser Brakk, 5200m - an Egyptian couldn't have done better. We climbed the right hand skyline arete.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Nayser Brakk is a gem among mountains, and the right skyline in the above photo has become the "classic" of the valley, with a number of ascents. Ours went well, with the odd routefinding error, more due to stupidity than there being tricky route-finding!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-_UzrDB0zYqItpmlpvOh_Mw1idRaHoyVtfL99q6MgJ432MlC2EgNxWx7MDGEOcD-Gf33NSuinmzJRoGvdJnYICjxgmPwp4tW3mdOP2RnSqjVBOx-5t9_MvZmaXkyW8l9NS0jbrrZWpygY/s1600/P1070245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-_UzrDB0zYqItpmlpvOh_Mw1idRaHoyVtfL99q6MgJ432MlC2EgNxWx7MDGEOcD-Gf33NSuinmzJRoGvdJnYICjxgmPwp4tW3mdOP2RnSqjVBOx-5t9_MvZmaXkyW8l9NS0jbrrZWpygY/s320/P1070245.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">900m of loose scree to start.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7P7PwmWGS5g2MXn9b25tH7p909FCGsaNgcPgqOEMIVaAZr5-1M4W802uGuLY8WdcrLo_OAzZLrnPmFUh3sb19yJa5p6zvmZgnYk7Od0HwPkTZNp5Ii22xd7RaFenMtqErOulVmqwr1y2J/s1600/P8140837+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7P7PwmWGS5g2MXn9b25tH7p909FCGsaNgcPgqOEMIVaAZr5-1M4W802uGuLY8WdcrLo_OAzZLrnPmFUh3sb19yJa5p6zvmZgnYk7Od0HwPkTZNp5Ii22xd7RaFenMtqErOulVmqwr1y2J/s320/P8140837+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first of about 6 pitches to the summit ridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrLDphTwDix7JRWimCBWIlraYv4HpN5oZrPcf2QkmCo0Hs3brJ5I8DcO0fqFD998OGYnkp9x9epI7E_uXLb4QVs2yDSNH5sFwgkrCKFTkilQw8hSpUApzFSTGcV5kP6EbwNMtKMU_02BU/s1600/P8140869+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrLDphTwDix7JRWimCBWIlraYv4HpN5oZrPcf2QkmCo0Hs3brJ5I8DcO0fqFD998OGYnkp9x9epI7E_uXLb4QVs2yDSNH5sFwgkrCKFTkilQw8hSpUApzFSTGcV5kP6EbwNMtKMU_02BU/s320/P8140869+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cool crack at about 5000m. The last pitch to the arete was a great spicy hanging slab at about E3 5b, in spitting rain, baggy shoes and with a thumping altitude headache!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
We climbed the route up and down in a longish day. It was only our second day in basecamp, so needless to say i was suffering with a migraine on the 5200m summit. But it was great to have done such a line on day 2.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXLsWj7It8acYumgzCDo37QVdQusC5peaiwDweXqT9Tqa6sbh6bR9i841BycbRk7X7tNH7nclwmApBbQ4LxPg3VcKQp6KaSIb3T_3D6QtUNxp-a7pT3oRErs85lg8yxwhcRrTCvVQ5I3mX/s1600/P8130797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXLsWj7It8acYumgzCDo37QVdQusC5peaiwDweXqT9Tqa6sbh6bR9i841BycbRk7X7tNH7nclwmApBbQ4LxPg3VcKQp6KaSIb3T_3D6QtUNxp-a7pT3oRErs85lg8yxwhcRrTCvVQ5I3mX/s320/P8130797.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jesse and me bouldering. With such good bouldering a minutes walk from BC, i was determined to stay strong on this trip, but my current strength is proof that it's impossible!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div align="center">
<strong><u>FA on Sulu Peak</u></strong></div>
<div align="center">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A couple of days after we climbed Nayser Brakk we decided to climb the circa 6000m (height depends on who you ask and what map you look at) Sulu Peak, which is a very proud looking mountain half a days walk from BC. Initially we were just going to climb the central couloir, which is a C1200 metre couloir similar in steepness to the Couturier on the Aguille Verte. But after thinking about it, we decided to make use of the good weather and try to climb the long spectacular arete which runs NW from the summit of the mountain, which to our knowledge would be its first ascent. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
On the first day we climbed around 500 meters of loose buttress to reach a large snow shoulder before the meat of the arete. We pitched our first-light here, and did our best to sleep, but being early in the trip, we'd still not quite mastered breathing!</div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpRq5T88Q3B52VJGvCvTI0-S6d4vRJN8XsNpb7rbnGlILi1Sn2Gz1giBL-UPdAFnE3QsuzFzItcx56iZtyhhp2bkgyraIIfMP2QdWisVE4gP5fLSk63w6BjjNYsGXpUtYsI6dF1td_dJX/s1600/P8171104+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpRq5T88Q3B52VJGvCvTI0-S6d4vRJN8XsNpb7rbnGlILi1Sn2Gz1giBL-UPdAFnE3QsuzFzItcx56iZtyhhp2bkgyraIIfMP2QdWisVE4gP5fLSk63w6BjjNYsGXpUtYsI6dF1td_dJX/s320/P8171104+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first bivi, on a snowy shoulder on the ridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO27s6dZjYZGIdqSFw8U9nejSComr9Lur1jvHXX-O2PfH5-gKeexPWof1dEhiurWf-67hr6Ec03uG6SRvnFzWgeTHgaVYhuZGMORyAoWczZ96ddk3rpf1NggCZCcfWifpkKgY9ZDrnvlGy/s1600/P1070264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO27s6dZjYZGIdqSFw8U9nejSComr9Lur1jvHXX-O2PfH5-gKeexPWof1dEhiurWf-67hr6Ec03uG6SRvnFzWgeTHgaVYhuZGMORyAoWczZ96ddk3rpf1NggCZCcfWifpkKgY9ZDrnvlGy/s320/P1070264.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon looking up at where we'd be going in the morning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the morning we set off simul soloing (which is how we climbed a lot of the route) up and round a very loose rock wall, to get in to a linking couloir, which we hoped would take us to the arete.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWfNIz8AdrJ3Sljc_GWas0XwpGYIz_eq6M02wkYkm6TbFXke36pxO3yj9oE5emb9o3_8DKmzJSRBSoaeMhXfrNhaO5WagxV7Q5ZJi9G5mg0ShBCGiqQ8ai2vhhZEhRb6S41C9ZzMYkhIx/s1600/P8181125+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWfNIz8AdrJ3Sljc_GWas0XwpGYIz_eq6M02wkYkm6TbFXke36pxO3yj9oE5emb9o3_8DKmzJSRBSoaeMhXfrNhaO5WagxV7Q5ZJi9G5mg0ShBCGiqQ8ai2vhhZEhRb6S41C9ZzMYkhIx/s320/P8181125+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just after first light.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5TZgr75Otpt78WHaXpChwg8kqGDzN5U_nHQos9A_Gocw9IKhW8VbJ73XfDJDA4TJdUq4ZFGhsv5hdbOndloG07D_YbNlnOw28NC6SBwDk6bjkuXOe2m-217-3Mq9AY05fsjNlC1fr-D2/s1600/P1070274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5TZgr75Otpt78WHaXpChwg8kqGDzN5U_nHQos9A_Gocw9IKhW8VbJ73XfDJDA4TJdUq4ZFGhsv5hdbOndloG07D_YbNlnOw28NC6SBwDk6bjkuXOe2m-217-3Mq9AY05fsjNlC1fr-D2/s320/P1070274.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After about 2-300 metres, the couloir narrowed and we climbed some steps and steepenings to the ridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhisXf8X_NcjyKPd3rsWuJrUwvVobXLl_ZPYxyS-xRPruREdq8xI1rAcgpT0EzcaL673lGcGJTbwP18fPuoz3DoQWkFiw5vCVOHvqSWJiffwLHaAMsaUF_m-nmZlGFsRb87lA98xr_3Z1rf/s1600/P1070278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhisXf8X_NcjyKPd3rsWuJrUwvVobXLl_ZPYxyS-xRPruREdq8xI1rAcgpT0EzcaL673lGcGJTbwP18fPuoz3DoQWkFiw5vCVOHvqSWJiffwLHaAMsaUF_m-nmZlGFsRb87lA98xr_3Z1rf/s320/P1070278.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kapura and Drifika in the background.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqLSqJ5zoDSEcXgxjXj4ZUumVJR8jn2GCYS-AdimC-glsxyuPPPHXXUoWi79XCnzXp3zMO1O2r4fjZj4td_dugsN3RrYPWbvJ_CtTgdcP6EwMinJLaS0WX3y_55ffTh6mHX65e8yuVD17/s1600/P8181139+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqLSqJ5zoDSEcXgxjXj4ZUumVJR8jn2GCYS-AdimC-glsxyuPPPHXXUoWi79XCnzXp3zMO1O2r4fjZj4td_dugsN3RrYPWbvJ_CtTgdcP6EwMinJLaS0WX3y_55ffTh6mHX65e8yuVD17/s320/P8181139+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breaking trail, with a long way to go.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw1UFGSpXt_XtYuw8Dd3gQwb0n7o5TLkI8JuJogPv-w37hxJLR4L-JzxvKQrll7QcAHjcaN7Rt2lUSzM3DyGvy5a8u9SDP7fgneAfQNhA4pvlfNgV8N24jYEk0k4rJFpYwsI9koomr0rF/s1600/P1070283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw1UFGSpXt_XtYuw8Dd3gQwb0n7o5TLkI8JuJogPv-w37hxJLR4L-JzxvKQrll7QcAHjcaN7Rt2lUSzM3DyGvy5a8u9SDP7fgneAfQNhA4pvlfNgV8N24jYEk0k4rJFpYwsI9koomr0rF/s320/P1070283.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back from half way-ish.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi85Cq4Ul0tO91Z9NXzQvrVV_rAp7e7Jhet6b5RIVaPq1hIKJeJzAQB-Rqep_3y2TWx4Obo1pxA84xkDgzgocTy9LA9hCZ5h5ffty6dPkUj_R8W3TUZVA75Cxw8uHppaK8dP-Tnh0SPYC2x/s1600/P1070290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi85Cq4Ul0tO91Z9NXzQvrVV_rAp7e7Jhet6b5RIVaPq1hIKJeJzAQB-Rqep_3y2TWx4Obo1pxA84xkDgzgocTy9LA9hCZ5h5ffty6dPkUj_R8W3TUZVA75Cxw8uHppaK8dP-Tnh0SPYC2x/s320/P1070290.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YP0XtwbVt416t_zBIpZ9vj1NPc_UcreVQhMZmXq2H2dyP-_iHLl02huxvB4mSZmIw_0WvSYxq_qFqoJCek2itVsQikbPznQxc2NJeltpODHCm1DZO-N5AvJpMfV2F2aEaE35sAH9hx3a/s1600/P1070291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YP0XtwbVt416t_zBIpZ9vj1NPc_UcreVQhMZmXq2H2dyP-_iHLl02huxvB4mSZmIw_0WvSYxq_qFqoJCek2itVsQikbPznQxc2NJeltpODHCm1DZO-N5AvJpMfV2F2aEaE35sAH9hx3a/s320/P1070291.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mixed step not far from the top plateau.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg3LOomDRdh1zyQZ-VUv4ZhkALUs_8kEXFyDidCa-ApwNGPPsQCXfxXdRKrwS22d8xSOfS-sIbEJdet8ieDnJqkCKrnj0XACS7BYolqWo2nwRPbDXv6Z2sVfkw7hoUyeLxYXM8-uznZmf-/s1600/P1070295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg3LOomDRdh1zyQZ-VUv4ZhkALUs_8kEXFyDidCa-ApwNGPPsQCXfxXdRKrwS22d8xSOfS-sIbEJdet8ieDnJqkCKrnj0XACS7BYolqWo2nwRPbDXv6Z2sVfkw7hoUyeLxYXM8-uznZmf-/s320/P1070295.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep snow in the sun - a nasty combination. Chogolisa behind.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iZ3_Nichgkvrt3J2UcCqDntyfSi9dD87k0gZqvMHJuDi8Z708eX485Pst2EsKu4XYNDK1AQNhlUXQi35Q1LqHXE9mGykH_bmFmU488d94ZR9zs1cSvPmK1zwBug5Mpwp2VNpQwYF8HgQ/s1600/P8181173+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iZ3_Nichgkvrt3J2UcCqDntyfSi9dD87k0gZqvMHJuDi8Z708eX485Pst2EsKu4XYNDK1AQNhlUXQi35Q1LqHXE9mGykH_bmFmU488d94ZR9zs1cSvPmK1zwBug5Mpwp2VNpQwYF8HgQ/s320/P8181173+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-xIKZGUZ7VToEt_W0EDRjIr_isjupPJsWrjEbkuM44z0CTccSUaqUxUy4zaomK6CfazdpMUxRCQ1GwviiRUmt-rNdYban5aVM8n5QLO4cbr0DzEdcxJ-sNzfsAB20Ys84Idye2-dcIMm/s1600/P8181190+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-xIKZGUZ7VToEt_W0EDRjIr_isjupPJsWrjEbkuM44z0CTccSUaqUxUy4zaomK6CfazdpMUxRCQ1GwviiRUmt-rNdYban5aVM8n5QLO4cbr0DzEdcxJ-sNzfsAB20Ys84Idye2-dcIMm/s320/P8181190+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdRxW1dgDqS-9QgMXpY9ku-6-g_ZWL9akxIAqSul_XAypaZdRj5KDyQGji4eOtjb9_WRrK8CaREvN9seohOtKkRezKeeqbtsLpipsnVy44qE6KPGJeXmbn9U5x04Y544eUc3uqxTk_Cl1t/s1600/P8181278+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdRxW1dgDqS-9QgMXpY9ku-6-g_ZWL9akxIAqSul_XAypaZdRj5KDyQGji4eOtjb9_WRrK8CaREvN9seohOtKkRezKeeqbtsLpipsnVy44qE6KPGJeXmbn9U5x04Y544eUc3uqxTk_Cl1t/s320/P8181278+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our bivi on top of Sulu on a convenient plateau.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After taking many aspirin and trying very hard not to be sick i managed a bit of sleep, but it wasn't a good night. In the morning, feeling sleepy and very rough, we downclimbed the huge couloir on the east face of the mountain, and reached basecamp late in the morning.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLS2i-qnp70F3UVYv2pa3H4Kp6OZAv88nUPt6vTzHAtszp7IIx2sbdE7OmKoNJQ6eyttRjTG4rbGCHOMTAljOCPL9830WRJ6o1Mcgbt57FP0ZayCOLEI-z0Z6eWnhx6OV5yvCj6m7nH5G/s1600/P8191367+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLS2i-qnp70F3UVYv2pa3H4Kp6OZAv88nUPt6vTzHAtszp7IIx2sbdE7OmKoNJQ6eyttRjTG4rbGCHOMTAljOCPL9830WRJ6o1Mcgbt57FP0ZayCOLEI-z0Z6eWnhx6OV5yvCj6m7nH5G/s320/P8191367+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending a laborious 1100 metre couloir early the next morning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CxYoPaly1QQVVicH3Kf7ot9r3JIlGIUaHZEBOuF6J__7yWSAL1uhyKlpWgXfoAw0dgPhh2o74q5mO4FJh_J4XX6AjJKZECmE-8KV4yFj4_zCJWwyfkvwe18kA408lU8R7Ru-51ND1OyD/s1600/P8201409+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CxYoPaly1QQVVicH3Kf7ot9r3JIlGIUaHZEBOuF6J__7yWSAL1uhyKlpWgXfoAw0dgPhh2o74q5mO4FJh_J4XX6AjJKZECmE-8KV4yFj4_zCJWwyfkvwe18kA408lU8R7Ru-51ND1OyD/s320/P8201409+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our return to basecamp coincided with "Eid", which is the end of Ramadan, so we all had a big feast. Here Ali 1 and Ali 2 present a cake and some fried chicken - the Ali's could work miracles with their single kerosene stove!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE-mBiIY9BRjp4Cj27aDb5t8cgkk1cnwlfJF12FBF14SA25-vFhAPFbnJiRj4J7UM7K0ZWiZfjO1i6W6RE6xaJK-zkt0VgY0wNeavY6wp2ZM2aeBwyYU-PSnaXBJzRffO2Bil4VqDHFuty/s1600/P8201447+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE-mBiIY9BRjp4Cj27aDb5t8cgkk1cnwlfJF12FBF14SA25-vFhAPFbnJiRj4J7UM7K0ZWiZfjO1i6W6RE6xaJK-zkt0VgY0wNeavY6wp2ZM2aeBwyYU-PSnaXBJzRffO2Bil4VqDHFuty/s320/P8201447+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "swimming pool", about 2 minutes walk from basecamp, where we washed and swam when it was hot enough.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="center">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mZF6VrrZBwctaH5miu5LjDjArf10T8dxnTGzAvEfNvZjO-Z9ypze0rgKplLWh3N0bv57xwSpPg7ZQoj8smpl_qRnL4kVat8__9cBVsNVlsebpuQ1a6X5nn4L1wkQaraD2n3DfYk2edoj/s1600/P8160955+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mZF6VrrZBwctaH5miu5LjDjArf10T8dxnTGzAvEfNvZjO-Z9ypze0rgKplLWh3N0bv57xwSpPg7ZQoj8smpl_qRnL4kVat8__9cBVsNVlsebpuQ1a6X5nn4L1wkQaraD2n3DfYk2edoj/s320/P8160955+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorting supplies at BC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<strong><u>Beatrice</u></strong></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
With the weather still seeming ok, we wanted to squeeze in another route before we committed to our big objective up the valley. Beatrice is an attractive mountain just under 6000 metres and not too far from BC. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
With an early start we made the schrund after 3 or so hours walk. We needed to climb really fast, as the broad lower couloir looked like it would slough badly when the sun came round on to it. With this in mind, we left our ropes, rack and harnesses at the bottom and got on with it. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHediZ5EexZw0bmxjW44-MTndkk7BPBWtShpEEB_Ab4ZwmNZ3ygJ11avilM802qISaO6uCSpMLWh8zeyI8tVG-VQ2_xzFfJbak5DYBgbppu7xbL3R-fhz6y8q6Km7MNx41Op0xD7ucmOY-/s1600/P8291959+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHediZ5EexZw0bmxjW44-MTndkk7BPBWtShpEEB_Ab4ZwmNZ3ygJ11avilM802qISaO6uCSpMLWh8zeyI8tVG-VQ2_xzFfJbak5DYBgbppu7xbL3R-fhz6y8q6Km7MNx41Op0xD7ucmOY-/s320/P8291959+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part way up the huge initial couloir.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioTuD8mpYjLLEtZ6bzSlvcBin9ZX2Xs6LsDkO2mAU1iPSNouM66KoQYBozzHk797s6uAX64deHEkNULH9i1lSbKBQoQ9Qqhg2oQZbVBLJt-ISwo0KAlvdjUXmDQizxeBlZ2CaHIuqKjW3M/s1600/P1070344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioTuD8mpYjLLEtZ6bzSlvcBin9ZX2Xs6LsDkO2mAU1iPSNouM66KoQYBozzHk797s6uAX64deHEkNULH9i1lSbKBQoQ9Qqhg2oQZbVBLJt-ISwo0KAlvdjUXmDQizxeBlZ2CaHIuqKjW3M/s320/P1070344.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing the top of the initial couloir.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgod_iI4TwXEf9bRFahyRvPQnb4bC5GP2WbNjAfXbnjibidZ4bPig-0fblLyMuL5pFC6as9YixdWZ_YRba0WzXaty5VWFxFeUmy90TSRGWcA8owGQQpHT0QniG2GpnbCoNXqRxL4Slt8Si4/s1600/P8291975+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgod_iI4TwXEf9bRFahyRvPQnb4bC5GP2WbNjAfXbnjibidZ4bPig-0fblLyMuL5pFC6as9YixdWZ_YRba0WzXaty5VWFxFeUmy90TSRGWcA8owGQQpHT0QniG2GpnbCoNXqRxL4Slt8Si4/s320/P8291975+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We ended up climbing the chossy cracks on the right, then rejoining the couloir higher up. Starting to really regret leaving our rope and harnesses behind now!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheAh1QUwf55pXg6utGGiWs94ACKwlcC0v9rGUX5coEcL_4nEWAZXnmMt22NVqf7fFOpy879uf-VV-3a-LnAKx81zi6geFvQxR848eKdTGtpHIxo4CbQjUSD0XaOIQkC0Seksqg4kZsl20B/s1600/P1070352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheAh1QUwf55pXg6utGGiWs94ACKwlcC0v9rGUX5coEcL_4nEWAZXnmMt22NVqf7fFOpy879uf-VV-3a-LnAKx81zi6geFvQxR848eKdTGtpHIxo4CbQjUSD0XaOIQkC0Seksqg4kZsl20B/s320/P1070352.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon hacking through the summit cornice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlU7VcPnhsiLs4M-m_4lG9KMkPT2VaEM-3JMSzGxHfw4hTgMD1tdPSbgQE1zbFIQHEboTEwOKf_2K42QQI9msao4oKqyBhwmSLHT7hllhCfu9nsh34man6sgXbNQS67XFG7m9pbB4PaK7I/s1600/P8292036+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlU7VcPnhsiLs4M-m_4lG9KMkPT2VaEM-3JMSzGxHfw4hTgMD1tdPSbgQE1zbFIQHEboTEwOKf_2K42QQI9msao4oKqyBhwmSLHT7hllhCfu9nsh34man6sgXbNQS67XFG7m9pbB4PaK7I/s320/P8292036+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
</div>
<div align="left">
We climbed mostly snow and ice couloirs and chossy rock to within 20 metres of the summit, when all was replaced by bottomless snow. Knowing we had to down climb every meter of the mountain, it was with a little apprehension that we left the summit, but all went well and we made a quick descent.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<strong><u>Link Sar Attempt</u></strong></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
Link Sar was one of the really big plans we had for the trip. At 7041 meters Link Sar is one of the bigger unclimbed mountains left in Pakistan and stands opposite the grand east face of K7 (6934m). Link Sar's faces are broad and complex, and not without serac dangers. However, after some scouring with binoculars and checking out other possibilities, we settled on what we believed to be a very attractive line on the face almost exactly opposite Urban, Kyle and Haydens cool new line on K7.</div>
<div align="left">
</div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsmVhyFmhflg1rY7yMF6gAnRhVIch8A97enUcB6yg8EMCd9eKwUC0TAmAEhBRCwwL9YRFQzoUEvx9VpkBP3oX5q0ksEkFH1NvnGfFpfahU8Na8_G7UFoyHvZM62VgZrYBXbcgvCgQI3EN/s1600/P8211635+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsmVhyFmhflg1rY7yMF6gAnRhVIch8A97enUcB6yg8EMCd9eKwUC0TAmAEhBRCwwL9YRFQzoUEvx9VpkBP3oX5q0ksEkFH1NvnGfFpfahU8Na8_G7UFoyHvZM62VgZrYBXbcgvCgQI3EN/s320/P8211635+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and Jon checking out the face a few days prior to going for it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCwOqAHSPYznYnZdsYBqJQHUGfjBkE_c_dzBG8FyuDRS9jpal74uq0MTLXWI03XBT86DlX8c9YcAJvvGJw0821fW8kdY1WEYs9N0stsl0at46JkBp1PdfdilDJ4NsDGmAGlo6QPFVebS7/s1600/P1070392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCwOqAHSPYznYnZdsYBqJQHUGfjBkE_c_dzBG8FyuDRS9jpal74uq0MTLXWI03XBT86DlX8c9YcAJvvGJw0821fW8kdY1WEYs9N0stsl0at46JkBp1PdfdilDJ4NsDGmAGlo6QPFVebS7/s320/P1070392.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon getting a forecast via email. Much thanks to our Goal Zero solar set up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLOziYSxpKXlya_14qJ-KKbccP9OHRZp8f1oQbc440KGZFFy2dGP5rOn6stS6ZzhmPfQV7ZX3w4OYGvmqzw9orahq3c-zM3QDWFyjDk_-f0sj_D1CI0N7lZlz7Vlb67491WUB0fErYNbO9/s1600/P1070367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLOziYSxpKXlya_14qJ-KKbccP9OHRZp8f1oQbc440KGZFFy2dGP5rOn6stS6ZzhmPfQV7ZX3w4OYGvmqzw9orahq3c-zM3QDWFyjDk_-f0sj_D1CI0N7lZlz7Vlb67491WUB0fErYNbO9/s320/P1070367.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The face is hugely forshortened and distorted in this photo, but our line went through the initial rock on a diagonal ramp to reach the snowfield at half height.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
</div>
<div align="left">
We bivvied a fair way from the schrund in distance and height, and were shocked the next day when it took many hours to reach the schrund through the dangerous valley above, this took a lot of time and energy that we, perhaps naively, hadn't anticipated correctly after our recce. </div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-3KxSzrOYo9heeKb1G9cP1D3xZRGXqEyiUT0bWEAUYvqdwC4d1JGSbnqMwUubZYtTjluW7mi1brh_TfJA_W0teszCLiqj115WLlKdbojCqO4CmEU6VbkkIlo57et2pde1zpsODMiGiJL/s1600/P9012218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-3KxSzrOYo9heeKb1G9cP1D3xZRGXqEyiUT0bWEAUYvqdwC4d1JGSbnqMwUubZYtTjluW7mi1brh_TfJA_W0teszCLiqj115WLlKdbojCqO4CmEU6VbkkIlo57et2pde1zpsODMiGiJL/s320/P9012218.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mouse had eaten parts of our rope, resulting in three nasty core shots which we only noticed at the bivi. This was a bit off putting as we had decided to rap the whole face after climbing it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUBWQuta5NsUk6wTYJpGrWimTtBADo1qssUnNQhrZbOJoiYRDKZPZUnpeGjLzyjoGURePHojzvniE2g_J5WDsQnjRrjWkFTO6rf7v6S1nB3XXb-V8ntyqOzmU2MnK3kGSYYIO8pvvnDqD/s1600/P1070371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUBWQuta5NsUk6wTYJpGrWimTtBADo1qssUnNQhrZbOJoiYRDKZPZUnpeGjLzyjoGURePHojzvniE2g_J5WDsQnjRrjWkFTO6rf7v6S1nB3XXb-V8ntyqOzmU2MnK3kGSYYIO8pvvnDqD/s320/P1070371.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon's hydraulic legs punch a deep track up the lower gully.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiuKOX18v0CTewNW5woIvFP6jo1xvEWLZkwD-xxTSlSeVl6mm4vA9itsbTryK1U4mSb0pCrDYG-VciOS0F-FNacCtNpKOvp5HQsHQ4vv6fcl7R6t6-NrhWU-t9wUR-f_mSB6IT6SKZir_/s1600/P9022377+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiuKOX18v0CTewNW5woIvFP6jo1xvEWLZkwD-xxTSlSeVl6mm4vA9itsbTryK1U4mSb0pCrDYG-VciOS0F-FNacCtNpKOvp5HQsHQ4vv6fcl7R6t6-NrhWU-t9wUR-f_mSB6IT6SKZir_/s320/P9022377+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost half height on the face, in nasty warm snow, which we were scared would slough in the sun.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1uKd03Wt8oTs8-8l3ChRiImm2NmYqtteLj5d2qjrWvCS26hVzYzbj4lII5Op4noN5EVOBm7OOVSYuhjSOSkwUq28NB1T1qPv4t33xW18q_tfikgAO-aaAP9s1utANvoviOYgzp_GapErI/s1600/P1070374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1uKd03Wt8oTs8-8l3ChRiImm2NmYqtteLj5d2qjrWvCS26hVzYzbj4lII5Op4noN5EVOBm7OOVSYuhjSOSkwUq28NB1T1qPv4t33xW18q_tfikgAO-aaAP9s1utANvoviOYgzp_GapErI/s320/P1070374.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Threatening weather above, as we work through a steepening.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwrt0GkqqP94tJMVlKvmk6NJZ-s8OzhX0ieYyEt2J5xeWkjXc476TgdIyMoZPqY-2kVfY0VWgtA0omKgdt5s7NzymkBp5_9GJ-9zBoOrU6QEdtUDZvrlsgwkJrTkulvYer6hXfBwMdeRg/s1600/P9022391+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwrt0GkqqP94tJMVlKvmk6NJZ-s8OzhX0ieYyEt2J5xeWkjXc476TgdIyMoZPqY-2kVfY0VWgtA0omKgdt5s7NzymkBp5_9GJ-9zBoOrU6QEdtUDZvrlsgwkJrTkulvYer6hXfBwMdeRg/s320/P9022391+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bottomless traverse, which took us almost 2 hours to gain less than 100 metres. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: left;">
What felt like a long way up the face, our pace slowed to a slow crawl as we hit bottomless snow. The weather had been threatening all day, and it was finally starting to snow. We made an effort to find somewhere safe to bivi, as we were currently sat in a network of flutings which would become deathtraps if the snow continued. Jon went for a look above, but to no avail, and i abseiled down on to a small snow fin which looked from above like it could be chopped at for a platform. When i got down there it wasn't the case. After a small discussion and assessment of our situation, we started to rap the face on the first of many, many v-threads. The weather forecast had predicted snow to turn in to a bad weather system, but not so early as this, but that was just one of many things not going right that forced us to bail. On the descent i started to feel very ill, i'm still not sure whether it was altitude or not, but i don't think i've ever felt as ill in the mountains as i did when we crossed the schrund later that night. </div>
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: left;">
We bivvied not far from the schrund, in the dumping snow, and returned to BC the next day. Although it hadn't gone to plan, we were only half way through our trip, and were confident that we'd be back up there soon to finish it off, with far better tactics and knowledge of the snowy hell that was the top half of the face. We weren't to know what the weather had in store for us.</div>
<div align="center">
<span id="goog_1866700857"></span><span id="goog_1866700858"></span><u><strong></strong></u></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<u><strong>Bad weather and Haithi Brak </strong></u><strong><u></u></strong></div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
As i've already mentioned the trip was one of two halves, and on the 2nd or 3rd September winter arrived. We'd talked to several friends about weather in this part of the Karakorum, and we'd decided that September seemed like a reliably stable time. However, we'd also heard from some people that there's the risk of it being bad due to wintery weather systems starting to arrive.</div>
<div align="left">
After two days of this colder nasty weather, Ali and Fida were both repeating "weather very bad this month sir, not good September sir" and as much as we appreciated their worry we did our best to ignore them, until it became obvious they knew what they were talking about.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhVBVIj_b9cNa7W2e4W88yLY-StXWGAEYSvLHMwIZRVm_Ycve40Xo4gRLkbMr6CFOHxsJ1rAmAxPDxlrGWE6OGnajG2h16pn6yaL5R6cRmE5Y20xhx393v4U40Sa-YnQYo-6Kb3ctAyvt/s1600/P8120743+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhVBVIj_b9cNa7W2e4W88yLY-StXWGAEYSvLHMwIZRVm_Ycve40Xo4gRLkbMr6CFOHxsJ1rAmAxPDxlrGWE6OGnajG2h16pn6yaL5R6cRmE5Y20xhx393v4U40Sa-YnQYo-6Kb3ctAyvt/s320/P8120743+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Movie night.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
After many many days of consecutive rain and snow, we did manage to salvage the last part of the trip somewhat, by climbing a beautiful rock peak of about 5400m called Haithi Brakk, even if it was in a white-out.</div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6782n2suBIZLv265Zr0IGaJlZmiSssr3hT1E3PVwELYBFuFlesOBghs8DLw877VNUMT302UrNYD2d4QPsC9Hm4Y3LJ0gfpjwX6Q3Xh8pimbGgAi8r6Quej8Yo4JodUYW4zeQ_rfTI3pPc/s1600/P1070521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6782n2suBIZLv265Zr0IGaJlZmiSssr3hT1E3PVwELYBFuFlesOBghs8DLw877VNUMT302UrNYD2d4QPsC9Hm4Y3LJ0gfpjwX6Q3Xh8pimbGgAi8r6Quej8Yo4JodUYW4zeQ_rfTI3pPc/s320/P1070521.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The summit is the largest rock spire left of the snowy central peak.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkNOwv1vdCYZxAIYgWdJaV3tw9XVhGEto8FgYhOSdAiK_jKTnIkZ5YP4V5LKrH99EBg0qyN-vidsvcVBn1u0NeRpDVRpkk4PyNfrHVJC30VzylOjmFYKdfP7iYj6rHtCAwPixAarynbGw/s1600/P1070474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkNOwv1vdCYZxAIYgWdJaV3tw9XVhGEto8FgYhOSdAiK_jKTnIkZ5YP4V5LKrH99EBg0qyN-vidsvcVBn1u0NeRpDVRpkk4PyNfrHVJC30VzylOjmFYKdfP7iYj6rHtCAwPixAarynbGw/s320/P1070474.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The weather cleared briefly near the top. This gendarme is the summit just to the left of ours on the previous photo. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We climbed around 1000 metres of easy couloirs and gullies, until a shoulder between a large gendarme and the summit tower. The summit tower had some decent, if a little loose rock climbing, and a mixed pitch to a summit the size of a small coffee table with 1000 metres of air on either side. We had been told that this summit was unclimbed, but after finding some tat, we thought it very doubtful!</div>
<div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPgzTO6ej0_iZ7sCtwBRDVfWsMOBBaNCyAnJbr0A7EMEaBVYX26XxRtHauWIP22Sk1FDenfuRZ5tvAOr5ueiuk73vOV3FPnjmXWrUe9sXy5i3ZnVLh9wCKE-No0OBrdxiW8zdpWiRtTotq/s1600/P9163019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPgzTO6ej0_iZ7sCtwBRDVfWsMOBBaNCyAnJbr0A7EMEaBVYX26XxRtHauWIP22Sk1FDenfuRZ5tvAOr5ueiuk73vOV3FPnjmXWrUe9sXy5i3ZnVLh9wCKE-No0OBrdxiW8zdpWiRtTotq/s320/P9163019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
</div>
<div align="center">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilflOh8lzd5LcwQjWr3okiBYQ4AQnN6mcK6HO7uvAi3paVprBSGECocRTw3Fofw-BjydCu7KIO5Ip1qz4anYMd-SbqaA30Jr5xX3LKk2GrojVJ_dzA0tl-u6iepvLBrBrk8cDjWG8QY5SE/s1600/P9163009+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilflOh8lzd5LcwQjWr3okiBYQ4AQnN6mcK6HO7uvAi3paVprBSGECocRTw3Fofw-BjydCu7KIO5Ip1qz4anYMd-SbqaA30Jr5xX3LKk2GrojVJ_dzA0tl-u6iepvLBrBrk8cDjWG8QY5SE/s320/P9163009+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdqBJuIk96fkX4VaZkko6cSmqU2zSAhwDpSqw_njcAPWNAjWe_E59t9RslxoVnnAU_f3GfbEr6NkpsbkhLhy6fFGfmKpG5P__HR3p64GyPxPmEAIe5kVoNOpAz3vIBosTEOULNN4imZeDi/s1600/P1070478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdqBJuIk96fkX4VaZkko6cSmqU2zSAhwDpSqw_njcAPWNAjWe_E59t9RslxoVnnAU_f3GfbEr6NkpsbkhLhy6fFGfmKpG5P__HR3p64GyPxPmEAIe5kVoNOpAz3vIBosTEOULNN4imZeDi/s320/P1070478.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: center;">Chossy rock.</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
</div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcm4z2yqcabATG_VTIlHzkVuByEUdEf8WRwReEnfxyqhuq5eVULSe31jhcdBkdbxdajfyuMp7j9eKmCmU-SRQORWAHvWkkq6_ej3ryK_zlYGaLe3tmJQJ2o1DfVfeE0usYyfJmz4TM7wP/s1600/P1070479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcm4z2yqcabATG_VTIlHzkVuByEUdEf8WRwReEnfxyqhuq5eVULSe31jhcdBkdbxdajfyuMp7j9eKmCmU-SRQORWAHvWkkq6_ej3ryK_zlYGaLe3tmJQJ2o1DfVfeE0usYyfJmz4TM7wP/s320/P1070479.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final exposed mixed pitch to the summit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwb0rDQYY6aFsySCFF4xWNotyVS6UUNUqEug1zvlfArCeysqsWfH1Mk4f6mr6m-jPpHxXsQjS8Tobpo0G4h_5hONnHZnBeyi9lKU_NVbLWrm0xcz91PRhP0GZvVdgUmGX-OjiPX4fss9I/s1600/P9162979+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwb0rDQYY6aFsySCFF4xWNotyVS6UUNUqEug1zvlfArCeysqsWfH1Mk4f6mr6m-jPpHxXsQjS8Tobpo0G4h_5hONnHZnBeyi9lKU_NVbLWrm0xcz91PRhP0GZvVdgUmGX-OjiPX4fss9I/s320/P9162979+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last climb of the trip.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<u><strong>Return Journey</strong></u></div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpAjZQJQMLEZUTjocjCuW5ApTCqa8vV0thZS44PMwE3YZwlprcTyKGkHvTM_bodKEv3hTqqoTtuXmBcL8CiYCuhWmNgaIFWS9XW89AUz8RgdEZsBFOjazb_kTiMCHQZQi8hFjm0BPO-c7z/s1600/P1070328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpAjZQJQMLEZUTjocjCuW5ApTCqa8vV0thZS44PMwE3YZwlprcTyKGkHvTM_bodKEv3hTqqoTtuXmBcL8CiYCuhWmNgaIFWS9XW89AUz8RgdEZsBFOjazb_kTiMCHQZQi8hFjm0BPO-c7z/s320/P1070328.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ali 1, Fida, Ali 2, and Abas. Some of my fondest memories of the trip are of conversations with these guys at basecamp. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
We walked out from BC on the 17th September and once back in Skardu started the torturous journey down the Karakorum Highway to Islamabad. Other than clearing part of the road in the middle of the night that had collapsed in front of us, and a slight delay due to riots on the road against the "anti Islamic film" made in America, the journey went well, and about 30 hours after starting we arrived in Islamabad. In Islamabad we dodged more riots, (on one day we weren't even allowed out of our hotel due to riots going on outside), moved our flights forward by two days, and located the secret bar (yes it does exist!).</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5nrNdjwJPeui3qRI6nl6RRMfCJ7YNIDx3zMmwKTtfCR7LnEoLEkhXNsfsZjD2PXWLRz1VAQo_Wsgs52aEjh0HqyjSJHppbcqEZCpottK5XW938N6QS1hZGLg7hTruzRq2KGSzh5-bj71/s1600/P1070509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5nrNdjwJPeui3qRI6nl6RRMfCJ7YNIDx3zMmwKTtfCR7LnEoLEkhXNsfsZjD2PXWLRz1VAQo_Wsgs52aEjh0HqyjSJHppbcqEZCpottK5XW938N6QS1hZGLg7hTruzRq2KGSzh5-bj71/s320/P1070509.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porters walking out.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfzRwY6pW8meeTBn7vjPwb6yshhU3Ed5WYiZ9KlxLHzLoNX0vCU6d2e3Mx22R88Hg8qtOJKq39pJ_TiqEL6UohoLV4YCr3YLlMrU8d1rBzk-H-_LHE8L3qKjn2p7b0mDKoAtp1D6kKYnr/s1600/P1070570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfzRwY6pW8meeTBn7vjPwb6yshhU3Ed5WYiZ9KlxLHzLoNX0vCU6d2e3Mx22R88Hg8qtOJKq39pJ_TiqEL6UohoLV4YCr3YLlMrU8d1rBzk-H-_LHE8L3qKjn2p7b0mDKoAtp1D6kKYnr/s320/P1070570.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akhtar and the van on the Karakorum highway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
So, what next? Paying off my credit card bill with lots of work on the farm, building a woody in a barn at work, preparing for the next BMG course and finding a way to buy a van with no money. Possibly some cold stuff in the Alps and Norway in a few months time also, but lets wait and see.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">
There is no way i could undergo trips of this size if it wasn't for the invaluable support of my sponsors, for which i am very grateful - buy their kit, it works!</div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZeS2BWbeR-7x3bKEmqgdDh7Qko6qb5FewbOianPvsmZ-yIQq3zxhjtYR7qxQjhXtyqYN-fqLM41OAWxBTLV5joJjydIG6SGftqe7Bg67ZKmon2xpuYxATNkGP1kuOM50aMN_ZceknESx/s1600/Logo%2520Grivel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZeS2BWbeR-7x3bKEmqgdDh7Qko6qb5FewbOianPvsmZ-yIQq3zxhjtYR7qxQjhXtyqYN-fqLM41OAWxBTLV5joJjydIG6SGftqe7Bg67ZKmon2xpuYxATNkGP1kuOM50aMN_ZceknESx/s320/Logo%2520Grivel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2OPQI4tiNAnxVwJ7VuGT0Z2If1lU6A3aSpYNrsXKH8daBuAbM_Ud_T6EN5KQCFc5VK_LdprorJaR8QpgtL6k5ulfkv912I71kUlo_x70ul_jX9hsVbyCXJAcuRIcJXUv1uktX8VDenVjJ/s1600/Outdoor_Research_logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2OPQI4tiNAnxVwJ7VuGT0Z2If1lU6A3aSpYNrsXKH8daBuAbM_Ud_T6EN5KQCFc5VK_LdprorJaR8QpgtL6k5ulfkv912I71kUlo_x70ul_jX9hsVbyCXJAcuRIcJXUv1uktX8VDenVjJ/s320/Outdoor_Research_logo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-fhsHCfsUHH3aK1M-htMfsX1l0E2ZK7UWrQbqVnx0wYrPIh-ShMtBVkpqo_8T7yRb-p8xGwcnfB_16tYHQTFG-xdIJo-3o50ib8wotWcnbMTeFrGZ3mGeplNr5LtBXhFyEZo_vmuORrx/s1600/scarpa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-fhsHCfsUHH3aK1M-htMfsX1l0E2ZK7UWrQbqVnx0wYrPIh-ShMtBVkpqo_8T7yRb-p8xGwcnfB_16tYHQTFG-xdIJo-3o50ib8wotWcnbMTeFrGZ3mGeplNr5LtBXhFyEZo_vmuORrx/s320/scarpa.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-40176850579958647812012-08-06T03:20:00.000-07:002012-08-06T03:20:08.609-07:00Lift OffTomorow Jon and myself fly to Pakistan, and if all the travelling goes well, we should be established at our basecamp in the Charakusa valley by next saturday, fingers crossed!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKX3U4UdF3_PTe52XRPLh175hHJVFp9q2cKmVfN3Oto2m4xe-dQhxDw2D_GVYE6Yvc-Zxggeg559Sqp5oHaeR6sA6joMiNWlZK79rNxDYTkCBjtJ_v3fb2LO1GMkhuqIpEpgszJViRHeX/s1600/P1070073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKX3U4UdF3_PTe52XRPLh175hHJVFp9q2cKmVfN3Oto2m4xe-dQhxDw2D_GVYE6Yvc-Zxggeg559Sqp5oHaeR6sA6joMiNWlZK79rNxDYTkCBjtJ_v3fb2LO1GMkhuqIpEpgszJViRHeX/s320/P1070073.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scafell from work. My boss wasn't happy last time i put up a photo of his farm as he said it looked dirty..... So here's a nicer one.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW6QUNESiBUTibEIBFZCoIUGIBzhM-vsZ0WvQgZCF7DZ-s2Gjcb3FmzBBzy_XPqWZcebECWn1iBbWbh18vlO71VRJ8W2NDfwrrNTZ-4MaTS_eyZVVMa7mxvNcv_6RSuD2lauQ1qTOztyXs/s1600/P1070079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW6QUNESiBUTibEIBFZCoIUGIBzhM-vsZ0WvQgZCF7DZ-s2Gjcb3FmzBBzy_XPqWZcebECWn1iBbWbh18vlO71VRJ8W2NDfwrrNTZ-4MaTS_eyZVVMa7mxvNcv_6RSuD2lauQ1qTOztyXs/s320/P1070079.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbf0ceJ3mIMbrRNQObp2d1pJvNucEncLHbGfbauksbmb192rZqfWGTUnmJI90Yv-gDZkDEOBC7UJuo5xpH0kudcavaS491iBiU4yi3Iz1y8bQZ-BGTkgC-b6P3TrodtGpzz4WSJDtiDJcP/s1600/P1070090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbf0ceJ3mIMbrRNQObp2d1pJvNucEncLHbGfbauksbmb192rZqfWGTUnmJI90Yv-gDZkDEOBC7UJuo5xpH0kudcavaS491iBiU4yi3Iz1y8bQZ-BGTkgC-b6P3TrodtGpzz4WSJDtiDJcP/s320/P1070090.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jake on the Gravity Wave project. Although the weather's been pretty bad this summer in the UK, i've been out a fair bit, but mainly on the legs, with lots of hill reps.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxK611lrTsy1yG-M4SbWUb-wRng91mbQPjRVfUpx0xawi3DzrZMqN5TnfnIoTnQ2MI_CbuY0VOJOBk5mtNtUVwVsqMJPICORc5vfp4MffAf9fspH584PSDUitg3a9X1I0STWMUH4U1VGf/s1600/P1070086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxK611lrTsy1yG-M4SbWUb-wRng91mbQPjRVfUpx0xawi3DzrZMqN5TnfnIoTnQ2MI_CbuY0VOJOBk5mtNtUVwVsqMJPICORc5vfp4MffAf9fspH584PSDUitg3a9X1I0STWMUH4U1VGf/s320/P1070086.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The awesome Goal Zero "Sherpa 120" solar set up. Powering weather forecasts and much more at basecamp. We've always had big issues with solar panels in the past, but it looks like for this trip we've got it sorted.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjcNWfkfA8Bm0MRd7qXpG9wRqMPcslgMbeAVOLJPs_vgS2a7R13vLRHDwSnpY5gijb2bFeHj6ATTVPzTj8GfTp5wv1Ts8Cq-YqAXAK9Tvr6yQ7uuTEbOFYhGjLSqZntCOofu5lEWe2QF0z/s1600/P1070496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjcNWfkfA8Bm0MRd7qXpG9wRqMPcslgMbeAVOLJPs_vgS2a7R13vLRHDwSnpY5gijb2bFeHj6ATTVPzTj8GfTp5wv1Ts8Cq-YqAXAK9Tvr6yQ7uuTEbOFYhGjLSqZntCOofu5lEWe2QF0z/s320/P1070496.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'll be here next week. Basecamp will be on the moraine in the bottom left of the photo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-85814167720419564702012-07-01T12:48:00.000-07:002012-07-01T12:48:31.063-07:00PakistanIn the first week of August myself and Jon Griffith are going to Pakistan. Based from the Charakusa valley in the Hushe region of the Karakorum, we'll have about 40 days to get something big done. The coolest thing about this trip is the idea of not having one fixed objective. Although its fun focusing on one line or idea, and letting it singly absorb all your thoughts and energy, I've learn<span style="background-color: white;">t from the last expeditions I've been on that the most important thing is to have a variety of options and to keep an open mind, as whether you'll even get to step on to the thing you want to do is probably around 80% luck.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtaNCSubK6eJkm_dmI5_ycB_pBxcYDgwiilBoKm0QJoDd8IBfYoNfAugmJ7TcTyTXN3goZ5qq_nOnlv2Y6xV9mL-CvC75F7K1uPOKNjm54bn6cXFKKsMCIcEAo3IfFm5MNuUERGfGTXyFw/s320/P1070455.JPG" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big faces and no routes. Credit Urban Novak.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So we're just gonna get ourselves there, and try and treat it like a climbing trip - "Hey that looks good, lets get on it."<br />
<br />
I found out a few weeks ago that I've been accepted on to the BMG/IFMGA guide scheme. So the day after our Islamabad - Heathrow return flight, i will be in Llanberis for my first induction course, starting the long process of becoming a guide. I'm expecting it to be a hard 4 years which will require a lot of work, patience and sacrifice, but hopefully fulfilling and interesting, with one of the coolest jobs in the world at the end of it.Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4316446458852514640.post-39371061130552929512012-06-13T12:53:00.001-07:002012-06-13T23:35:02.372-07:00SpringNot for the first time this week, i logged in to Facebook this morning to be greeted by an album of photos from a friend's successful Alaskan spring. To counter the liquid jealousy that started coursing through my body as i sat scrolling through the photos, i reminded myself of what you gain when you think you're missing out.<br />
<br />
Although devoid of big adventures and hair-rasing, digit-freezing routes, the last few months have been crammed full of more pleasurable activities.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDABSzp5wIdHM1GvbDtuvuYUjblIzK8YfIpcGoLKzWJ3bsMsfQeqQONRgP9YuuClGLomu_tByHN7wL2-F-DGKYM_DPAzwHLvLz0KSfx7TOTcNhzKBi2HCVasnRXAqAYA8OHhqIBR7Ww4or/s1600/_MG_3179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" pca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDABSzp5wIdHM1GvbDtuvuYUjblIzK8YfIpcGoLKzWJ3bsMsfQeqQONRgP9YuuClGLomu_tByHN7wL2-F-DGKYM_DPAzwHLvLz0KSfx7TOTcNhzKBi2HCVasnRXAqAYA8OHhqIBR7Ww4or/s320/_MG_3179.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The awesome crag of "Euskal" Val Pennavaire Italy. Lots of trips to this valley over the last couple months.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkE9upBV8MzB6z6lZL3YismSDTdprOhAaqjx6zHKwbt_JUZlTa86u_4HoOk53TWlmtRZBDbZEid73LbO11gOvSQi5ChSqeiAKjAC8L7dBXf5BtIzi8vd8XfFB-zbnnp91cyfSicjDSmRfl/s1600/_MG_8184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" pca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkE9upBV8MzB6z6lZL3YismSDTdprOhAaqjx6zHKwbt_JUZlTa86u_4HoOk53TWlmtRZBDbZEid73LbO11gOvSQi5ChSqeiAKjAC8L7dBXf5BtIzi8vd8XfFB-zbnnp91cyfSicjDSmRfl/s320/_MG_8184.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A classic 7b+ at Bionassay - the best sport cliff within 30 mins of Cham, (by a long way....) . I've spent a lot of time here in the past, but i've still barely made an impression on the amount of great routes there.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1-zUY-CR4hf-UhfR1jiqdjb5dNUIfHqtI5ikF8G7HYbEpj7TyqTZsFIEec869SM4uJ3s5h8tlbMI_goqMO8KdqIWuBM_zwoVt1BI7hiFAEP2SF9N40MF1b1_iZi5H1h3RgtCa6QR-aLQ/s1600/531311_10151487676490032_1083124170_n%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" pca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1-zUY-CR4hf-UhfR1jiqdjb5dNUIfHqtI5ikF8G7HYbEpj7TyqTZsFIEec869SM4uJ3s5h8tlbMI_goqMO8KdqIWuBM_zwoVt1BI7hiFAEP2SF9N40MF1b1_iZi5H1h3RgtCa6QR-aLQ/s320/531311_10151487676490032_1083124170_n%5B1%5D.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A slide we triggered skiing in the Oberland this Spring.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrTHfM7LpEA0sFn_eZSGkbTABOIYfsHhmX7ImuNxzLKbqzPXm01o5stKmJmChAyqQl77x2mPMJDTaijEgAPnh5RYWQHsny7YjSrE-fd6TJMIYNAkqUp7ncqbAQrtYYlABYd19XBZ6uUSd/s1600/486978_10151008436464884_1212315831_n%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" pca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrTHfM7LpEA0sFn_eZSGkbTABOIYfsHhmX7ImuNxzLKbqzPXm01o5stKmJmChAyqQl77x2mPMJDTaijEgAPnh5RYWQHsny7YjSrE-fd6TJMIYNAkqUp7ncqbAQrtYYlABYd19XBZ6uUSd/s320/486978_10151008436464884_1212315831_n%5B1%5D.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Greenwood teetering up the bold classic "Supernatural" on Gable last weekend.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I'm off to Pakistan in August, which gives me plenty of time to train like crazy and work the rest of the time. Details on the Pakistan trip to follow...Will Simhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09858521406091868594noreply@blogger.com0